prodigy60
2008-08-06, 11:11pm
Hi!
Soo, I've come across several threads, not only here but in other places as well regarding the lynx and how to use the knobs and so on... I actually had questions myself and emailed the people at gtt, and thankfully, they sent an "instruction manual" of sorts in reply to my email. Hopefully, in posting this info, it'll be able to help others out in the future, but here's the content of said doc file verbatim.
good luck!
=====================
GLASS TORCH TECHNOLOGIES, INC.
1988 Herbert Avenue
Hellertown, PA 18055
(610) 838-2446
gttech@rcn.com
www.glasstorchtech.com
INSTRUCTIONS FOR LYNX TORCHES:
- Set Propane Tank Regulator to 5 to 8 lbs. of pressure.
- Set Oxygen Regulator to 10 to 15 lbs. of pressure.
- Red Valve on torch controls Fuel.
- Green Valve is the main outer oxygen. This valve is the most important oxygen control because it helps to keep the torch cool and keeps the flame from burning too close to the burner jet orifices. If this valve is not set right, the burner jet orifices will glow orange and you may also notice orange streaks in the blue flame. If this occurs, turn on the Green Valve a little more until the orifices stop glowing.
- Blue Valve controls the flame characteristics. This valve will focus the flame, give the flame thrust, and sharpen the flame. If you want a brushy flame, use less of the Blue Valve or completely shut off the Blue Valve. With this valve you can get and produce very big long flames. (The Blue Valve is the secondary inner oxygen).
- To Start, turn the Red Valve slowly until you get the torch lit. Once it is lit, get about a 7 inch yellow flame going. Next, turn on the Green Valve until the flame is a nice blue color. You can work between the Red and Green Valves and adjust up from there for the desired flame. (Using just the Red and Green Valves is good for most bead working.) You can run a little more candle tips in the flame than you can on a standard torch without reducing. To get a tighter flame with more thrust, get the flame out to about 8 to 12 inches long with the Red and Green Valves. (Note: Make sure the flame is smooth and not distorted to get the maximum control from the Blue Valve (secondary oxygen control)). Start to open the Blue Valve and you will notice the flame tightening up and leaning out. Then start to add more fuel (Red Valve) and keep going up with the Red and Blue Valves until you get the desired flame setting. With the Red, Green and Blue Valves turned on is good for larger bead and marble work and for borosilicate work. When adjusting for borosilicate you can run much longer candle tip lengths, 1 to 1 1/2 inch, than you can for soft glass. Note: if you hear any excessive hissing or crackling noises, it means the Blue Valve is open too much. Just back it down a little until it gets quiet. You can get a bigger soft flame with the Blue Valve by first getting the flame as big as you can with the Red and Green Valves (without distorting the flame or excessive noise), then open the Blue Valve a little bit until you see the flame lean out a little. Then start adding more fuel (Red Valve) and more oxygen (Green Valve). Don’t add any more Blue Valve (secondary oxygen) or very little if any.
- If you want a very small sharp flame make sure the Green Valve is Off. Use only the Red and Blue Valves. Just work in increments between the Red and Blue Valves to get the flame length you want, from 1 inch long up to approximately 10 inches long. The smaller lengths are for detail work and the longer lengths for inside-out working on the Red and Blue Valve settings. Always keep the flame tight and focused. Do not run a soft flame, except for Silver Fuming when you run the flame length out to about 6 inches and soften it up a little (cut back on the Blue Valve a little). For Gold Fuming, keep the flame tighter. Watch for any orange glowing on the burner jets or face of burner. If you see any, add more Blue Valve until they stop glowing. This is mainly when running shorter flame lengths.
- If you need soft brushy type flames only use the Red and Green Valve controls.
- If you need a small very focused type of flame use only the Red and Blue Valve controls.
- If you need a very hot flame, use all three valve controls. You will also get the widest range of flame characteristics by using all three valves.
- Never run a soft low or short flame. This will cause the burner to overheat.
- To shut burner off, turn the Blue Valve off, then the Green Valve and finally the Red Valve.
WARNINGS:
1. Never leave the area with the torch running.
2. Never leave the tank valves turned on if you leave the area; be sure to relieve pressure off torch.
3. Never get any oil on the lines and connections.
4. Use hose clamps or other approved connectors on the hose adaptors. Always check for and beware of any leaks and correct them immediately.
5. Never touch the torch on the barrel or nozzle end while it is running, or for 15 minutes or more after running.
6. Always wear Phillips Safety Eyewear or Didymium Glasses.
7. Have good ventilation in work area.
8. Keep flammable objects out of work area.
9. Keep burner pointed in a safe direction and be sure nothing flammable is within 4 feet or more, or have a fireboard backstop.
10. Secure burner to the work table.
11. Always have a fire extinguisher in its proper place.
12. Always have a small container of water by your work area to put hot glass scraps in.
We recommend taking a glass working class.
Any questions call: (610) 838-2446
Glass Torch Technologies, Inc., 1988 Herbert Avenue, Hellertown, PA 18055
Soo, I've come across several threads, not only here but in other places as well regarding the lynx and how to use the knobs and so on... I actually had questions myself and emailed the people at gtt, and thankfully, they sent an "instruction manual" of sorts in reply to my email. Hopefully, in posting this info, it'll be able to help others out in the future, but here's the content of said doc file verbatim.
good luck!
=====================
GLASS TORCH TECHNOLOGIES, INC.
1988 Herbert Avenue
Hellertown, PA 18055
(610) 838-2446
gttech@rcn.com
www.glasstorchtech.com
INSTRUCTIONS FOR LYNX TORCHES:
- Set Propane Tank Regulator to 5 to 8 lbs. of pressure.
- Set Oxygen Regulator to 10 to 15 lbs. of pressure.
- Red Valve on torch controls Fuel.
- Green Valve is the main outer oxygen. This valve is the most important oxygen control because it helps to keep the torch cool and keeps the flame from burning too close to the burner jet orifices. If this valve is not set right, the burner jet orifices will glow orange and you may also notice orange streaks in the blue flame. If this occurs, turn on the Green Valve a little more until the orifices stop glowing.
- Blue Valve controls the flame characteristics. This valve will focus the flame, give the flame thrust, and sharpen the flame. If you want a brushy flame, use less of the Blue Valve or completely shut off the Blue Valve. With this valve you can get and produce very big long flames. (The Blue Valve is the secondary inner oxygen).
- To Start, turn the Red Valve slowly until you get the torch lit. Once it is lit, get about a 7 inch yellow flame going. Next, turn on the Green Valve until the flame is a nice blue color. You can work between the Red and Green Valves and adjust up from there for the desired flame. (Using just the Red and Green Valves is good for most bead working.) You can run a little more candle tips in the flame than you can on a standard torch without reducing. To get a tighter flame with more thrust, get the flame out to about 8 to 12 inches long with the Red and Green Valves. (Note: Make sure the flame is smooth and not distorted to get the maximum control from the Blue Valve (secondary oxygen control)). Start to open the Blue Valve and you will notice the flame tightening up and leaning out. Then start to add more fuel (Red Valve) and keep going up with the Red and Blue Valves until you get the desired flame setting. With the Red, Green and Blue Valves turned on is good for larger bead and marble work and for borosilicate work. When adjusting for borosilicate you can run much longer candle tip lengths, 1 to 1 1/2 inch, than you can for soft glass. Note: if you hear any excessive hissing or crackling noises, it means the Blue Valve is open too much. Just back it down a little until it gets quiet. You can get a bigger soft flame with the Blue Valve by first getting the flame as big as you can with the Red and Green Valves (without distorting the flame or excessive noise), then open the Blue Valve a little bit until you see the flame lean out a little. Then start adding more fuel (Red Valve) and more oxygen (Green Valve). Don’t add any more Blue Valve (secondary oxygen) or very little if any.
- If you want a very small sharp flame make sure the Green Valve is Off. Use only the Red and Blue Valves. Just work in increments between the Red and Blue Valves to get the flame length you want, from 1 inch long up to approximately 10 inches long. The smaller lengths are for detail work and the longer lengths for inside-out working on the Red and Blue Valve settings. Always keep the flame tight and focused. Do not run a soft flame, except for Silver Fuming when you run the flame length out to about 6 inches and soften it up a little (cut back on the Blue Valve a little). For Gold Fuming, keep the flame tighter. Watch for any orange glowing on the burner jets or face of burner. If you see any, add more Blue Valve until they stop glowing. This is mainly when running shorter flame lengths.
- If you need soft brushy type flames only use the Red and Green Valve controls.
- If you need a small very focused type of flame use only the Red and Blue Valve controls.
- If you need a very hot flame, use all three valve controls. You will also get the widest range of flame characteristics by using all three valves.
- Never run a soft low or short flame. This will cause the burner to overheat.
- To shut burner off, turn the Blue Valve off, then the Green Valve and finally the Red Valve.
WARNINGS:
1. Never leave the area with the torch running.
2. Never leave the tank valves turned on if you leave the area; be sure to relieve pressure off torch.
3. Never get any oil on the lines and connections.
4. Use hose clamps or other approved connectors on the hose adaptors. Always check for and beware of any leaks and correct them immediately.
5. Never touch the torch on the barrel or nozzle end while it is running, or for 15 minutes or more after running.
6. Always wear Phillips Safety Eyewear or Didymium Glasses.
7. Have good ventilation in work area.
8. Keep flammable objects out of work area.
9. Keep burner pointed in a safe direction and be sure nothing flammable is within 4 feet or more, or have a fireboard backstop.
10. Secure burner to the work table.
11. Always have a fire extinguisher in its proper place.
12. Always have a small container of water by your work area to put hot glass scraps in.
We recommend taking a glass working class.
Any questions call: (610) 838-2446
Glass Torch Technologies, Inc., 1988 Herbert Avenue, Hellertown, PA 18055