Boro torch??

[biebs30]

Hi there

i have a question about which torch works good for boro???
I buy 2 concetrators with these ,like the 8lpm 15 psi.

I thought about a barracuda,
but are there more good boro torches???
what do you use for a torch with 2 concetrators to get great colors out of boro.

i want to burn animals pendants and marbles and beads, like maby 5/10 cm toll
Hope you can help me with this one.

thanks for your time and help

biebs

[Mr. Smiley]

There is a GTT Cheetah in the garage sale. It runs great off of these two units. ;)

[Jackson River Glass]

Hey Biebs -

I have a cheetah and love it. I have two concentrators and I can do beads, marbles, or pendants. I mostly do beads, but definitely have the heat to do much much more. The cheetah rocks!!! Colors are fine. GTT's are really amazing torches, worth every penny.

Good luck!

[kbinkster]

The Lynx and the Cheetah both are very good torches that can work boro while running on concentrators, depending on how large you want to go with your work. What you describe sounds within their range. Also, the larger GTT torches have the Lynx centerfire, so if you ever wanted to work bigger, you could run the larger torches with the centerfire powered by concentrator(s) and the outerfire powered by tanked oxygen, if you like.

You can do this with other torches (like the Barracuda, Knight Bullet, etc.) if they are equipped with seperate feeds for the inner and outer fires.

I see that you are in the Netherlands. One thing you should keep in mind if you are planning to purchase concentrators... If you are buying something made/sold in the US, keep the electrical thing in mind. Most concentrators over here are 110V/60 Hz. The electrical supply in Europe is 220V/50 Hz. While there are step-down transformers available to convert 220V to 110 V, they do nothing for the Hz (frequency) and you are left with a machine that needs 60 Hz, but is being supplied 50 Hz. That is very problematic.

There are machines that are 220V/50 Hz made here in the US. I sell a 220V/50Hz version of the Regalia that works great with the Lynx and with the Cheetah. OGSI, I believe, makes a 220V/50Hz version of their generators, as well, but I prefer my Regalia (naturally). I believe that there are transformers for the Hz, but they are very, very expensive and by the time you buy one of those and the 110V/60 Hz concentrator(s), you have spent more money than a 220V/50Hz concentrator would have cost.

You might also check to see what is available to you locally. If you can get two 5 LPM oxygen concentrators, that is enough for the Lynx to work boro. It's not as good on a Cheetah as a full 10 LPM machine, though, for the size work you are describing, but it can be done.

[G.L.McBead]

I think you would be more happy with a Knight torch as you live so far away.Kinght torches are very reliable and easy to clean.With a GTT you may be without a torch for a long time sending it to be cleaned or repaired.A cuda,Hellcat or Bullet are all very tough and easy to clean.
G.

[kbinkster]

GTT torches are very reliable and are easy to clean. When run properly, they don't even need cleaning. And, if you are going to be running on concentrators, you will want a torch that will make the best use of the oxygen you have available. GTTs are the most efficient torches around.

[G.L.McBead]

When Run Properly,Thats what I was saying, the torches I listed you don't have to worry about it.

[kbinkster]

When Run Properly,Thats what I was saying, the torches I listed you don't have to worry about it.

Some people have the notion that you have to run special settings on GTTs to keep them from having problems. The truth is that any flame setting that would carbon up a GTT would also carbon up any other torch. It's just that you will be able to tell what's going on on a GTT sooner than on other torches - before any real damage occurs - because the little injectors will clog up first and alert you to a problem (running it incorrectly). If you get carboning, then you just clean your torch with the cleaning wires provided and change your flame settings (usually just add a little more oxygen).

Running a GTT correctly is pretty easy.

The green valve is the main oxygen valve for and is the main valve for cooling the torch. The blue valve is for the injector oxygen (to get the triple mix) and is not needed for cooling, but rather for keeping the inner jets from becoming dead spaces where carbon could build up.

To be on the safe side, it is good to keep the blue valve at least cracked open to keep some movement going through those tubes, even when you're not using the triple mix feature.

But if you are running your candles 3/8" or longer (common when working boro), or if you are bouncing around a lot on flames - going from one size to another, you really don't need to keep it (blue valve) open. This is because ignition is taking place farther out from the face of the torch.

If you are running shorter candles, like 1/4" - 3/8", and you are sitting on a pretty consistant flame - where you're not changing it much, then you should keep your blue valve open at least a little so carbon doesn't attach to the injectors and close them up.