Is there an easier way?

[tluvs2create]

I'm making the "Pandora" (large hole beads) and lining them with silver - but I must admit I HATE the process. I love Jim's lining tool - it works great and I am generally successful with it with very little practice. What I hate is everything I have to do that leads up to that. I measure my silver tubing to the bead. I use a pipe cutter to cut it to size. It takes quite a few rotations for it to cut (the blade probably needs to be replaced), but since it pinches the tubing in, I have to then take a file to each side (which is the major pain - I've gotten blisters) and then I anneal it (to soften the metal). Before I started annealing my little cut tubes, the metal was brittle and I had trouble with it ripping when I was flaring it. Someone here suggested annealing it (which seems to work great). However, since I anneal them, I now have "dirty" firescale on my little tubes so, I have to soak them in my crock pot to get rid of the firescale. Then I try to match up which cut tube goes with which bead (since it takes too long to do one at a time), I flare them and then I take my dremel to it to polish it more. Is there an easier way? Otherwise, I just don't think I have the patience much less the desire to keep doing these beads - even though I love the look and it sure is fun using the flaring tool.

[Mermaid Glass]

I absolutely love the lined beads, especially when they've got the additional, hand-made bead caps. So much work and artistry in some of them.

Sadly, I haven't got the tools for this process so I buy the sterling silver rivets to cap my Pandora-style beads. I make sure that my customers know that they are only rivets, not fully lined, but I sell a lot of them and the customers all seem perfectly happy.

I wear my own bracelet with these 'capped' beads all the time. The beads look pretty, wear nicely and I've never had a problem with the rivets popping off, as some people worry about.

[Art of Hand]

That is the 'problem' with working with silver. I would suggest using a jeweller saw. You will still need to neaten the edges with some sanding, but it just sounds easier. Do all of that before you anneal it, though. I use a permanent marker to id pieces before it goes into the crock pot. So after cutting a piece, place it in or next to it's bead. Anneal it one at a time, and mark it as soon as you took it out of the quenshing water. then into the crock pot, and at least then you have missed the step where you have to look for the correct bead/liner.

Lined beads are so beautiful.

[Kalera]

I hated having to file down the ends when I used a tubing cutter, too, so I got a mini chop-saw for $20 or so at Harbor Freight, and it works wonderfully.

I also anneal and pickle my whole length of tube before cutting it. Cutting work-hardens it a little, but not too much.

Hope that helps!

[theglasszone]

"It takes time to make fine wine"!!! (J.Gallo)

I haven't tried it yet, but Dave (Artintheround) has this new "deburring" tool that might help you refine the tube ends - check it out here:

http://host.pappapak17.com/~artinthe/category_13/Silver-Coring-Tools-and-Supplies.htm

Hope this helps! The look of the cored beads are just so lovely and professional; hope you don't stop!

De

[gubnavnania]

This is what I do on annealing the tubing.

I anneal at least 5" of tubing then pickled it.

Cut the tubing with pipe cutter (have to be careful on this step - do not tighten the cutter to hard, just enough to hold the tubing in place).

File inside the tubing -both sides- and flare or dapping it (I manually dapping it).

I don't cut the tubing in batches since not all my beads are in same width.

[lenora]

I don't anneal my tubing and haven't had any problems. How large of tubing are you using? Could you be cutting it too long? I've lined up to 1/4" beads with no problems. I add at a maximum 1/16" of tubing for each side, so 2/16" total. And I agree with not using the pipe cutter. I use a jeweler's saw. There's still a tiny burr, but it's really easy to file off.

[tluvs2create]

I know that sometimes I cut them too long, but no more and I would say 50% of the time they ripped, when I anneal it is always a success. I like the idea of using the jewelers saw then there is probably less filing that needs to be done. I also like the idea of annealing the whole length as opposed to each one already cut. I will give it a try. Thanks

[MaryBeth]

Holy cow - that does sound like a lot of work!

Here are the steps I go through:

1. Measure bead with calipers. Use set screw to hold calipers open. Zero out the measurement then move calipers to 4.2mm. (Dave at artintheround has an in depth description of this on his website.)

2. Scratch tubing with calipers to mark where I want to cut it.

3. Cut with pipe cutter.

4. Use Dave's deburring tool (takes about 2 seconds each side)

5. Use Dave's lining tool to line the bead.

6. Polish the rivit with a brass brush mounted on my Dremel (under running water).


I don't anneal my tubing and the brass Dremel brush produces a mirror shine. I use the same brush on my PMC pieces.

[TTreasures]

Laurie,

Where do you get the silver rivets to cap your beads? Thanks, Pat

[Mermaid Glass]

Pat, I know you can buy them on Etsy at this shop, http://www.etsy.com/shop.php?user_id=5179974
as well as on eBay and some wholesale bead shops but I've gotten my rivets from a company called Palmer Metals, http://www.palmermetals.co.uk. They have excellent prices and shipping charges - actually the best I've found - and they ship very quickly. I usually get my order in just a few days.

[tluvs2create]

Ok Mary Beth, you make it sound so easy. My pipe cutter really pinches in the tubing quite a bit - doesn't yours? If so, then this deburring tool sounds like a key to my problems. I found it on Dave's website - but how does it work? Does it go on my dremel or what? Also, can I pick up the brass brush attachment at my local Hope Depot? Is there a specific size that I need? I assume it is just for the outside, not the inner part of the core? However, if I am not annealing my tubing, then that won't matter. When I anneal it, that part gets "dirty" firescale, which just doesn't seem to come all that clean even after pickling. Thanks for all your help - everyone. I am beginning to see some light in my dark tunnel.

[MaryBeth]

Ok Mary Beth, you make it sound so easy. My pipe cutter really pinches in the tubing quite a bit - doesn't yours? If so, then this deburring tool sounds like a key to my problems. I found it on Dave's website - but how does it work? Does it go on my dremel or what? Also, can I pick up the brass brush attachment at my local Hope Depot? Is there a specific size that I need? I assume it is just for the outside, not the inner part of the core? However, if I am not annealing my tubing, then that won't matter. When I anneal it, that part gets "dirty" firescale, which just doesn't seem to come all that clean even after pickling. Thanks for all your help - everyone. I am beginning to see some light in my dark tunnel.

Let's see - the pipe cutter. Make sure your wheel is sharp. Just tighten it enough so that the wheel is in contact with your tube. Twist it around the tube three or four times it should loosen. Tighten it as before (a very tiny twist on the knob should do it.) Repeat until the piece of tube falls off. This whole process really only takes about 10 seconds.

Dave's deburring tool is a hand tool. Hold it in one hand and the tubing in the other. Twist the tubing over the end of the deburring tool. You can see the little burr come off - it looks like an ultra thin wire.

I did buy my brass brush for my Dremel at Home Depot. Some are cup shaped and some look like wheels. You can use either one. Make sure you are using it under water. I clean my finished silver rivets under running water in my laundry room sink. There isn't really any need to clean the inside - it stays shiny.

Here's a brass wheel brush one that you can get at Widget Supply:

http://www.widgetsupply.com/page/WS/PROD/dremel-brush/BES32

Here's the cup brush:

http://www.widgetsupply.com/page/WS/PROD/dremel-brush/BES34

But like I said if you don't want to wait you can get them at Home Depot and they are pretty cheap!

[squid]

Ok Mary Beth, you make it sound so easy. My pipe cutter really pinches in the tubing quite a bit - doesn't yours? If so, then this deburring tool sounds like a key to my problems. I found it on Dave's website - but how does it work? Does it go on my dremel or what? Also, can I pick up the brass brush attachment at my local Hope Depot? Is there a specific size that I need? I assume it is just for the outside, not the inner part of the core? However, if I am not annealing my tubing, then that won't matter. When I anneal it, that part gets "dirty" firescale, which just doesn't seem to come all that clean even after pickling. Thanks for all your help - everyone. I am beginning to see some light in my dark tunnel.

What Mary Beth said on the pipe cutter. If yours is pinching in your tubing that badly, you are either tightening it too much at a time, or the wheel is dull.

[tluvs2create]

Yea, thank you so much. Yes, I believe my pipe cutter is dull - it is an old one that my husband pulled out of his tools so who knows how long he has had it. I will get some new blades while up at Home Depot. I also think the accurate measuring is key and it just so happens I have one of those wonderful electronic calipers and I love it. Yea, more light at the end of that tunnel. Thanks again for all the help.

[Firebrand Beads]

Instead of cutting all the way through the tubing with the pipe cutter, score it with the cutter, and then snap it apart with your fingers. Putting your thumbnail at the crease helps. This way you don't push so much silver to the inside diameter of the tubing, and you don't have to file it out so much. That tip comes from Jerry at Retro Glass Tools, maker of the Beadliner.

[ginko]

I just had an email question that pointed me to the discussion about annealing the tubing. If you are using the Fits-Pandora tubing that is in the bulk buy, you do not need to anneal before using. The tubing is designed with a thin wall and pre-annealed.

My process is to cut the tubing with a small pipe cutter. Like it has been said, barely contact the metal with the first turn to score, then lightly tighten and turn again until it turns freely, repeat. It doesn't take many turns to cut through if you do it this way. I cut no more than 3mm longer than the width of the bead. If your bead has a puckered/dimpled bead hole, there is a lot of space for a nice flare without cutting a lot of tubing.

Next I debur using a round bit in my Foredom, but honestly, a round bit in a pin-vise would work just as well. Polish the ends on a bit of sand paper.

From there on, it is core line. Again, slowly with small steps work best. Don't try to flare an end in one pass. Flare, flip, flare, flip, flare, flip...about three or four passes usually works for me.

Use a leather mallet to flatten down the flared ends. I polish everything in a tumbler with stainless steel shot and Woolite. That's it. Fast process once you get the hang of it.

Hope this helps.

[isa]

Hi Ginko,
Bought your tubbing from the Bulk buy and am very satisfied with it:razz: placed a picture in the thread for Art in the round beadliner.
I would like to know if you have different sizes silver tubbing, as I bought different sizes for my beadliner.
I cannot find the silver tubbing here.

[bousky]

What size mandrel works best for lining?

[ginko]

Michelle, for lining the Italian charm (Pandora, Biagi, etc.) a 3/16th mandrel works best.
1/4" tubing would need a 1/4" mandrel.

ISA, silver tubing is available several places. The specialized 4.37 Inner Diameter tubing is one that I worked with Indian Jewelers Supply to manufacture specifially to fit the Pandora/Biagi chain. It is available through IJS, my etsy, and from time to time on bulk buys. IJS also carries 1/4" tubing, as do I on etsy.

IJSinc, Sante Fe Jewelers, Metalliferrous, Rio Grande, and other places sell other sizes of tubing.

[bousky]

Thank you Ginko.

[Jenfire]

I just got my Tubing from you ginko! Hubba, Hubba --- what a difference it made in lining these beads! Thank you so much for carrying it.
Jen

[yeepers]

Yes! It could be easier!!! You need one of these:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=42307

Mini Cut-off saw.

[glass addict]

I love my Harbor Freight saw!!

I follow Dave's process with the calipers as well, but when I line, I tend to do a bunch, so I picked up a plastic container with many little compartments and I put each bead to be lined into it's own compartment. Then I measure each bead with a caliper and jot down the measurement on a piece of paper in the same order the beads are. (I cross off each measurement as I cut it)

I use a file to smooth the tube edges, but the burring tool sounds interesting as well!

When I cut each piece of tubing, it goes in with the corresponding bead.

Happy lining!

Mary

[AlivELampworK]

I hated having to file down the ends when I used a tubing cutter, too, so I got a mini chop-saw for $20 or so at Harbor Freight, and it works wonderfully.

I also anneal and pickle my whole length of tube before cutting it. Cutting work-hardens it a little, but not too much.

Hope that helps!

Yes! It could be easier!!! You need one of these:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=42307

Mini Cut-off saw.

what they said! best $20 i have EVER spent. :)