Why is my raku ugly?

[burntfingers]

It seems that no matter how I adjust the propane and oxy levels, all I ever get out of it is either this ugly brown, or black because I've charred it to death ... what am I doing wrong? Is there some magic "raku chant" that I'm supposed to say before I turn on the torch? :rolleyes:

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[Lynn Larson]

One thing i have discovered about Raku is it likes heat! Lots and lots of heat! Heat your beads to the point that the raku is almost clear! Then let it cool with out flashing. Then you can re-introduce it in the flame. I think - not sure - if the colors ick out, the process can be repeated - not guarenteed though.

[WillfulOne]

I feel honored when the raku gods smile upon a bead for me and allow it to bloom. For the most part, it sits on the bead looking like baby poo. I have no helpful suggestions other than buy from a proven source. All raku is not the same. I have purchased frit and rods from several sellers but will only buy from one now. PM me if you would like to know who it is. There is a helpful thread already started here in this cat., search raku.

[Cosmo]

Quick changes in temperature are the best way I've found to get the colors to pop. Get it hot, touch it to some graphite, heat it again, cool it again, etc.

[Jude Rose]

Some of your base colors aren't as reactive as others. Try light ivory, black, red, Lauscha green when first trying to get it. Then you can branch out and see what happens with other colors.

I agree about the heat. Turn your oxy waaaaaaaaaaaaaay up and use some kind of brass marver to brush against the glass.

Good luck!

[kimberly]

Yep, heat is the key and so is the base color. As Lynn said, heat it until the Iris Orange is clear, then cool and strike. Yes, if you get the baby poo color, you can re-heat to clear and start over. I am not sure how many times you can do this, but a couple at least. Try it on Opal Yellow or Silver Pink. I made one last night on Tongue Pink that was really pretty. I love it on black, but it is sometimes hard to see what color you are getting until you actually get it, so save black for later when you are more familiar with the glass. I have had no problems at all with ANY of the Iris Orange from any of the sources I purchase from. It is a lot like other kinds of glass in that different batches tend to look a little different. But, ALL of the batches I have tried have worked for me.


Note: Iris Orange = Raku = Reichenbach 108

[sassy]

Yes I think there is some chant. But I don't know what it is either. So I am going to try the suggestions posted here. If that doesn't work then I'll try some more chants.

[Cosmo]

The only raku frit I own is the one I got form Valorie Cox, and it works fine.

Debbie, if you want to try some, let me know and I'll give you some. I also have some of her other frits you are welcome to try. I hardly ever use soft glass any more.

[WillfulOne]

Hi Chad.
PM'd you.

[burntfingers]

I just came in from experimenting, and had a little luck using brass to get minimal colors out of the raku, but I think I'm doing something wrong. I started using my lentil press (it's the only tool I have that is made of brass) and got lucky with clear as the base. I didn't try black or any of the other colors suggested. I have a rod of silver pink, so I may try that later.

Can someone please post pictures of the best beads you were able to make with raku frit? I need something as a reference ... 8-[

I'll post pictures of the beads I just made a little later. I'm expecting my new camera today, so I'll wait until it's here.

[Kevan]

It seems that no matter how I adjust the propane and oxy levels, all I ever get out of it is either this ugly brown, or black because I've charred it to death ... what am I doing wrong? Is there some magic "raku chant" that I'm supposed to say before I turn on the torch? :rolleyes:

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Raku colors will not pop on turquoise glass. They just won't. See

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d101/dancingstrarbeads/turquoisegoddess.jpg

On black they will -

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d101/dancingstrarbeads/January22004.jpg

I don't know why that is.

[burntfingers]

Here's what I was able to get by encasing it in clear. It's the best that I've done so far ... the rest just look like the ones above. Sorry for the crappy picture - I was in a hurry. The colors that came to the surface when I pressed it are great ... now I just need to find a brass marver ... anyone know where I can get one?

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[Lynn Larson]

Here is raku on trans pink...not rubino

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Here is some on orange, red and a little yellow
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[lenora]

I too have been frustrated with Raku. Here are some I just did that I was very happy with. I think your base color is very important. Black and ivory have worked well for me. This is what I did on these beads. I started with a black base and neutral flame and melted the raku in slowly. Then I moved really close to the torch and kind of cooked it. It got a grey haze over the bead. I cranked the oxygen and baked it with that. It turned pretty much black. Then I heated and cooled out further in the flame. If you are getting it black, you are probably pretty close. Once it is black, try heating and cooling out further in the flame. I have tried different things on different beads and gotten different results. Just keep trying.

By the way, I'm using a Minor.

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[Jude Rose]

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[Jude Rose]

Kim has a good point about the lighting. I have two daylight balanced lights that shine right by me, so I can hold my bead underneath and see where it's at.

I actually have a super detailed tutorial on raku, but it's slated for the Tutorial Fundraiser for LE, managed by Lizabeads. She needs more tuts before she can launch it. (hint hint) :-)

[Kevan]

See, that's on black.

It does make a huge difference what color you put it on. It does good on Vetrofond Senape and Ochre yellow. I have this odd lot green something, I don't know what it is, maybe odd lot petroleum green. Does well on that.

Black and ivory are probably your best bet.

[Toni Lutman]

I get the best results on dark colors. Black, cobalt, amethyst. I just use my regular graphite marver.

While you're experimenting, try making a smallish tube shaped bead. A small tube will absorb the heat quickly and cool quickly when marvered. Heat it well to melt the frit, then marver it on a flat pad. Sometimes you'll get good color right away. If not, reheat and marver again. For me, I can usually take it from a tan/putty color, to blues and greens and a little purple. If you heat too much and strike it to orange/brown, you can usually let it cool, then reheat and marver again and bring it back to the blues and greens.

Good Luck!