etching help

[Cathy at the Beach]

I have a problem with etching.
Ihave a new jar of etching liquid.
I pour about a 2 inch depth into a small plastic jar and insert clear green beads. I keep them moving for about 6 to 10 minutes.

They are coming out blotchy and uneven. parts are shiny parts are frosted. If I go too long they get kind of dirty looking.

I'm using effrete emeral green and I've also had the same issue with their trans rootbeer colour.

I've used trans grey and trans turq and not had the problem.

Is it the glass?

[lindag]

I think it's the bead coming in contact with the container. I string the beads on some twine or such and suspend them in the bottle. I know it says to put it in a separate container but I don't. I've been doing this for years. Sometimes if there is a large area where beads will come in contact with each other I use a seed bead for a spacer.

Rinse them with cool water and some baking soda to neutralize the acid.

[Cathy at the Beach]

I'll try that. Thats what it looks like...but I was so dilligent at turning and shaking the jar- hopefully that will do the trick!

Thank you very much!

[Lorraine Chandler]

I have to stir mine with a wooden skewer for at least 10 mins in order to mix the thick gunky stuff on the bottom with the clearish brown liquid on the top.

After I get it all mixed really good it looks like a grey/brown milk. No clear liquid to it at all.

I put my beads in only for 30 seconds to get a fabulous velvety etch. I have never had beads in longer except for a few of the CiM colors.
Lorraine

[simvet02]

Sounds like these etch creams are not created equal. I'm using EtchAll. I string one bead at a time on thread and dunk in the bottle. I left it there for 20 minutes. I had tried to reduce some beads with Sedona on them and really made a mess, it worked. They bead has a satiny finish and all of the metallic black reduction is gone.

The first bead I every tried, the test bead, I put in for 2 minutes, nothing, 5 minutes-nothing, finally just left it in there for 15 and that was about right.

Lorraine, when you talk about yours being separated and you having to mix it up, what brand do you use?

[Cathy at the Beach]

I use Etchall as well. I'm wondering if my stuff needs to be mixed. Its dark clear brown.

The thing is- grey and turq worked well...hmm

[simvet02]

My EtchAll is milky white. That dark clear brown sounds strange. Wonder why the difference.

[ekkc]

My etchall turns dark brown over time. I still use it with no problems even after it is dark brown.

[Katie Gee]

My etchall turns dark brown over time. I still use it with no problems even after it is dark brown.

Yes, so does mine. In fact, I just used it and it's still doing a great job etching. I got mine from Arrow Springs, and if I remember correctly, the instruction sheet that came with it even stated that it would turn brown, but would still work the same.

[simvet02]

OK, good to know. I won't worry when it starts to get dark. I would assume that because I put the beads right down in it it would have to start turning some kind of color....LOL

[lindag]

Mine is brown with crystals. Some say that warming it by putting the container in a bowl of warm water and crystals will dissolve but it's such nasty stuff I just use it as is. I've had it for years and it still works fine. I dunk for about 5 minutes and all is well. Mine is the liquid solution, best for beads I think. I have the cream I use for other projects but have never tried that with beads hearing that results are not uniform. The cream is white and I apply it with a craft stick or plastic knife.

[SadiesJewels]

Etchall white is a cream (at least mine used to be when I used it) whereas the liguid is brown.

I now use the crystals called "glass etching crystals" and they work great. You add the water yourself and yes over time the resulting liquid goes brown. (Hope you are all wearing your gloves with all of these - can be nasty stuff).

[Lorraine Chandler]

Sorry Jan! I just now got back to this thread. I use Etch Bath from Michaels.
Lorraine

[blr2449]

I just tried etching tonight and the beads really didn't do anything. I used B&B Dip-n-Etch Liquid and after reading the posts here I think I know what might have happened. I did string them but they rested on the bottom of the plastic container and the 2 were strung together. I think now that I should not have put them side by side and they shouldn't have rested on the bottom of the container. Right?

[Cathy at the Beach]

I put mine in an old bead release jar (plastic) and I shake them pretty well continually for around 6 minutes then check them. Unfortunately, I"m still having consistancy issues but they will do. I would love to get a velvety smooth finish all over each bead- but that doesn't happen. I"m still finding bits are a little shinier than other bits. I will next try to wash them very thoroughly with soap and water before they go in the etch. I really washed my hands well with soap and water before handling them, I just can't think of any other cause to the shiny parts.

[lindag]

You're sure it's Effetre? Bullseye doesn't etch well sometimes.

Maybe you need a new (different) bottle of etch? Try dipping a rod in the bottle, leave it for a few minutes and see what happens to that. Or put a little etch in a bowl (paper or not something you'd use for food) and add some baking soda. Does it fizzle?

I don't think I'd shake it continually...just jiggle them every now and again to make sure no one spot is resting on something. I just put my strand in the etch bottle, make sure nothing's touching and and take them out after 5 minutes and they're velvety smooth every time.

[harakeke]

It may well be the batch of etch. Here, downunder, the only importer gets it from Arrow Springs. The first lot I bought 2 years ago was great. The second lot, bought 6 months ago, treated in exactly the same way, does what Cathy is describing - some shiny bits, some over etched. I'm about to ditch it and try again...

[Damselfly]

Sometimes mine do that too. Someone told me that sometimes the beads have a residue on them (like oil from your hands) that can impede the etching. When I wash my beads with dishwashing detergent, then dry them and hold them with the paper towel to put them on my wire, I get better results. I still get occasional shiny patches, but it seems to work better overall.

[Cathy at the Beach]

well I will definately try the rod thing. I"m not about to toss the bottle- I paid $70 for it! I don't know why its so expensive here!! Does the stuff get old? I wonder if this is old stock that the art store had?

[Bev.B]

I'm sure the glass composition has a lot to do with the finish you achieve. I had a request at a Bead Show for a couple of etched green beads. Easy I thought. I bought a new batch from a supplier's stand and did the usual 5 minutes, the 10. It took me 25 before I had a result on the Moretti transparent green. Lots of running to and fro to the ladies.

I tried to etch Bullseye clear and after 30 minutes with no result gave up. I usually string mine on fishing line and dangle them in the jar, just bouncing them up and down a few times. My solution is a couple of years old, but I find 8 minutes is all I need.

As a test - I suggest making a half a dozen different coloured small beads and stringing them. Dip the lot for 5 minutes, rinse in clear running water, dry and check your result. Put them back in again if you want and see what a longer etch achieves. Keep a record. Once satisfied your can then put your beads in a your neutralizing solution.
Bev.B

[valerie_folly]

$70? WOW- don't know it I could afford that!

[Cathy at the Beach]

ya valerie...I thought long and hard about buying it.

Thanks bev...I will try that.

[Jennifer LaVite]

Help! I am having a problem with my etching. My colors seem to etch just fine, but sometimes there are "ghost" white marks that make the bead look dirty. They look like someone wiped baby powder in the crevices. This was definitely not the look I was after.

http://www.drygulch.com/images/lampwork/frostedpurple.jpg

[Jennifer LaVite]

Sorry about the huge photo! I forgot to resize it!

[jam4254]

To avoid beads touching each other or the sides of the jar, I layer as many beads as will fit submerged on a pipe cleaner. They stay put and can be easily positioned in your etching solution. I also use etchall. After using my reamer to clean the holes I use these pipe cleaners to finish cleaning and to use for etching. I think I bought them at CVS pharmacy, they are stiff and have bristles that help with the cleaning. I usually etch for about 10 minutes and because you don't need to do any shaking I always set a timer. I find that I am easily distracted.

As for the white powdery residue, I've only had that when I have etched to long. I've never had good luck getting that off.

[tasminann]

I used to have terrible problems with the white powdery residue until I saw a tip here on LE.

Once you finish etching, neutralize the beads with a water-baking soda solution, then rinse well with clear water.

The next was to put tiny amount of hand soap on an old (clean) toothbrush and brush the beads, then rinse thoroughly.

Ta-da! No more powdery white residue!

[deirdreschaneman]

I used to use the liquid etching solutions but had some issues with blotchiness as the solution was exposed to air. I now use a cream etching solution with no problems.

[Jennifer LaVite]

Thank you so much for the tips! I am headed off to rinse my powdery beads right now!

[gemsinbloom]

Hi, I am going to bump this. I was doing a search on etching. I have finally started experimenting with etching this week and I am in love , love , love! Why didn't I do this sooner?

Anyhow, I have the smaller holes in my beads. Do the pipe cleaners fit for those? I too want to be able to dip multiple beads without them touching. This is a great idea..


To avoid beads touching each other or the sides of the jar, I layer as many beads as will fit submerged on a pipe cleaner. They stay put and can be easily positioned in your etching solution. I also use etchall. After using my reamer to clean the holes I use these pipe cleaners to finish cleaning and to use for etching. I think I bought them at CVS pharmacy, they are stiff and have bristles that help with the cleaning. I usually etch for about 10 minutes and because you don't need to do any shaking I always set a timer. I find that I am easily distracted.

As for the white powdery residue, I've only had that when I have etched to long. I've never had good luck getting that off.

[KJJames]

Like a few others have posted, I just etch mine right in the bottle. So, I run a piece of fishing line through the hole of the bead that is long enough to suspend the bead deep into the etching solution and hang over the ends of the bottle. Then, I twist the cap onto the bottle to hold it in place. The fishing line will fit the smallest of holes and is stiff enough to get in there too. I use Armour Etch from Michaels and I have to mix it up with a wooden dowel every time I use. I let the bead sit for about 5 minutes then I run it under cold water and do the baking soda rinse too.

[gemsinbloom]

Today I discovered that twist ties work well too. This way the beads don't sit on top of each other and in turn the etching material may miss parts of the beads.