Olympia Rain Glass - from DoubleHelix

[cheeky monkey]

I just got my batch of glass from DoubleHelix Glassworks. Someone mentioned it somewhere and I was so intrigued by the pics that I had to order it RIGHT AWAY!!! :grin:
Okay.... so it came in yesterday. I have a fresh oxygen tank today, I get everything out to work with and I heat up the kiln. I take my first rod of $$ glass and put it in the flame. Then I try to get it to 'strike' and no go....:( It just looks like it stays clear! Can anyone help? I am working on a Carlisle Mini CC if that helps.

[Wonker]

Cheeky Monkey,

Be sure to sign up for Jed's newsletter. It just so happens that he just sent out a newsletter describing how to strike it. I think that I've cut and pasted the most important sections. Hope this helps.

"After extensive testing I have developed reliable methods for producing multicolored effects. It is important to note that when using 104 coe glass, the temperature at which the glass begins to soften is very close to the temperature at which the silver crystals will grow. Generally, silver rich colors should be worked fairly hot to keep the glass from over striking during the assembly of the bead/marble/etc. Once the piece was complete, one would strike the colors in the flame to achieve the desired effect. Ideally when growing the crystals, the glass would be struck for extended time in the far reaches of a neutral flame. In practice, this means that enough heat is absorbed by the bead that it may begin to slump or move. To eliminate this problem, one can strike these colors by using a soft neutral to slightly reducing flame, and flashing or rotating the not-very-hot bead briefly an inch or so from the burner face until the silver begins to deposit on the bead surface, initiating crystal growth. After this initial treatment, the bead can be rotated in the far reaches of the flame to further develop the different hues. The first step does not take long, only 3-6 slow passes through the flame. If the bead is overheated, you will see the silver haze burn off again, and another srtiking cycle will be required. The soft flame environment has a slight reducing effect on the glass, pulling silver to the surface. Be careful to avoid over reducing the glass, as this will leave a grey tint to the color. "

[cheeky monkey]

ohh.. this sounds complicated!!! THX!8-[

[Wonker]

Cheeky Monkey,

Nawww....you can do it....you got a good torch...and some great glass. I love Jed's glass it's gorgeous. I had trouble intiially with it, but hang in there it's worth it. Good luck.

Wonker

[cheeky monkey]

well thanks - i am going to try again tomorrow. I guess i wanted instant gratification. I should know better :)

[Wonker]

You can do it. Next try...make your bead.....let it cool off a bit....then in a nice neutral flame flash it close in until you can see the silver running on the surface.....you'll see it, but keep your eyes open....then move back to the back of the flame and roll it until it gets the way you want it. Ya know....Jed could explain this sooo much better. As for the instant gratification thing, I know all about it, but I don't think glass comes in that.

[DreamMuse]

I just received this glass too, and can't wait to play with it more! I have mostly opaque light blue tones, and from his instructions, I definately over-struck it. I really want to get all the different colors out of it.