Glassdaddy Purple Opaque NOT compatable with Moretti/Effetre???

[Kaye]

Well I have seen beads made with these colors...Paulette is glassdaddy purple what you use in yours?? well I made some...and got some craizing and was so mad...all the time making a set of nine/the focal was just playing, but did match...the faceted stopsigns a few have craizing...but it shows the most on the focal...took pix so we could discuss this...

I think a long time ago my sister in law Sonya "addicted2beads" told me not to use it as a base when using Moretti...but I could use it on top of moretti (glassdaddy purple that is) is this the only color that has this problem with moretti to this extent??

can you use other glassdaddy colors with it with success and not get this problem??? I have three pounds of this gorgeous purple so just wondering.

[sislonski]

Those are beautiful Kaye!

Is the craizing, the stuff that looks like it's cracking?

Too bad, nice beads!

[ChaseDesigns]

Gosh those are real pretty Kaye!

Like I said in the other thread, I have had problems with lauscha purple everytime I used it with moretti. Never had the opportunity to just use it with lauscha cause I only have a few colors of it.

[ChaseDesigns]

I think the longer you wait the moore craizing you will get. That happend to me once too when using this color. I noticed it on a few beads then over the next day they all did it. They went to the bead heaven in the sky.

[Kaye]

I think the longer you wait the moore craizing you will get. That happend to me once too when using this color. I noticed it on a few beads then over the next day they all did it. They went to the bead heaven in the sky.

yeah grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

hey, I will see what other colors I have in Lauscha and see if I can make some go with purple and try again....

guess I have a lot of purple for spacers if not huh???

might have to place an order again if this is the case...banana is really cool...saw someone show that off....

my biggest question is...is this the only color in the line that does this darn crap...

anyone out there that uses a LOT of different colors in this line, I would sure like to know.

so far this is the first time I have ever had a problem with Lauscha and Moretti not working together...but I haven't used the purple much before...mostly steel blue and prussion (sp?)

[ltsexpressions]

Kaye,

Have you seen the 058V Bill Thornton has? it is pretty close to the purple you might want and it's a Moretti, so at least you might have a good replacement there? and then make the coordinating spacers out of the glassdaddy purple???

just a thought,

stac

[MikeAurelius]

Kaye - that looks exactly like coe cracking. Maybe the stuff is like reduction frit and you can only use it in small amounts on top of beads.

Have you done a quick and dirty compatibility test with it?

Take two sticks of equal diameter, one of moretti/effetre on of the "other" stuff. Hold them together with a rubber band. Melt the ends together, use a tweezers if necessary. Get nice and melty, then pull off a stringer with both glass types on it - about 2-3 feet long.

If they are *mostly* (within 1-3 coe numbers) compatible, the stringer should be absolutely straight. If there is any curvature, they are not compatible (4 or more).

Did this with some cobalt blue plate glass - wanted to check to see if it was borosilicate. Melted some of the cobalt blue to pyrex and pulled about 18". It formed a perfect circle. Definately not compatible. COE 33 versus somewhere around 90+.

[Lynn Larson]

I have used it as a base for a goddess bead, with Moretti for hair and flowers and had no problems. I wonder if it is because all of mine was a surface decoration and not melted in.

[JavaGirlBT]

There's a thread sort of like this over on the other forum in the technical section and Jill Symons responded and said there's some additional information on the Glassdaddy website about raising the annealing temp a few degrees and slowing the ramp down a little.

[kandice]

Odd, because I have never had any problem with it, and so far, neither has Paulette that I know of - and she uses it in her organic beads. Maybe it's due to the fact that I haven't used it as a base yet - just as decoration. God Kaye, I would CRY if that happened - those beads are so pretty! :(

[Kaye]

Hi Kandice

I think it was Sonya that told me that long while back to only use it for decoration with Moretti and not the base...I should of remembered..

so Paulette on her focals applies it on a different core?? so if I did a sunset/mango coral core with this on it as decoration flip/flopped around...it shouldn't of done this??

yeah......the focal is the worst...the beads you can see it on a few...I can make myself a bracelet out of them and wear it till it crumbles I guess.

Odd, because I have never had any problem with it, and so far, neither has Paulette that I know of - and she uses it in her organic beads. Maybe it's due to the fact that I haven't used it as a base yet - just as decoration. God Kaye, I would CRY if that happened - those beads are so pretty! :(

[MaryBeth]

Hi Kaye,
I have used the new Glassdaddy purple over Moretti coral. However, I pulled stringers from the purple and used them as surface decoration only. I did this because of the Lauscha's tendency to want to overpower all other colors - not because I thought there was an incompatibility issue. I did not get any of the crazing that I see on your beads. I think you could still make this style - just cut down on the amount of the purple you use - make sure it is surface only.

I garage all of my beads between 970 and 980 because I also work with Czech and Bullseye and my ramp down rate is 1 degree per minute. I have found that this temperature and annealing schedule has resolved many issues for me with cracking as regards the non-Moretti types of glass.

Your beads are beautiful - tweak them a little and try again - I betcha' you can make that design work ;)

[kandice]

Hmmmm - I'm not really sure - but she would probably have some better info for you if you asked her. I would definitely stick those gorgeous things on a bracelet for yourself - they're beautiful!

Hi Kandice

I think it was Sonya that told me that long while back to only use it for decoration with Moretti and not the base...I should of remembered..

so Paulette on her focals applies it on a different core?? so if I did a sunset/mango coral core with this on it as decoration flip/flopped around...it shouldn't of done this??

yeah......the focal is the worst...the beads you can see it on a few...I can make myself a bracelet out of them and wear it till it crumbles I guess.

[kandice]

One degree per minute? So it takes almost 16 hours to run your annealing cycle? That's way long - I would go nuts if I had to wait that long.



I garage all of my beads between 970 and 980 because I also work with Czech and Bullseye and my ramp down rate is 1 degree per minute. I have found that this temperature and annealing schedule has resolved many issues for me with cracking as regards the non-Moretti types of glass.

[nicholebeth]

I had a problem encasing it some of the time, with Lauscha. An encased floral cracked (with the new purple as a base), but another encased one that was smaller didn't. I also tried to use it mixed in with other colors in a Kim Fields-type "elements" bead, and it cracked (its swirled in with several other colors, including anise).

[Lara]

I won't use any Lauscha with Moretti, have seen too many problems like this. For me it is only used with itself. I have seen lots of clear encased problems and this is the second purple problem I have seen/heard about.

Lara

[MaryBeth]

One degree per minute? So it takes almost 16 hours to run your annealing cycle? That's way long - I would go nuts if I had to wait that long.

One degree per minute until I hit 600 degrees. Then I let the kiln cool off on its own - I have a firebrick kiln. The entire cycle takes around 7 1/2 hours (for the temp to drop below 200).

16 hours would drive me nuts also :roll:

[danelady]

If you'll let me, I'll buy them from you Kaye, they are GORGEOUS!
HUgs
Lynnie
Hi Kandice

I think it was Sonya that told me that long while back to only use it for decoration with Moretti and not the base...I should of remembered..

so Paulette on her focals applies it on a different core?? so if I did a sunset/mango coral core with this on it as decoration flip/flopped around...it shouldn't of done this??

yeah......the focal is the worst...the beads you can see it on a few...I can make myself a bracelet out of them and wear it till it crumbles I guess.

[danelady]

Hey What about batch annealing them AGAIN with a higher SOAK temp?

Lynnie

Hi Kandice

I think it was Sonya that told me that long while back to only use it for decoration with Moretti and not the base...I should of remembered..

so Paulette on her focals applies it on a different core?? so if I did a sunset/mango coral core with this on it as decoration flip/flopped around...it shouldn't of done this??

yeah......the focal is the worst...the beads you can see it on a few...I can make myself a bracelet out of them and wear it till it crumbles I guess.

[kandice]

Oooooh, whew! That makes a lot of sense now. :) That's about how long my cycle takes, too. :)

One degree per minute until I hit 600 degrees. Then I let the kiln cool off on its own - I have a firebrick kiln. The entire cycle takes around 7 1/2 hours (for the temp to drop below 200).

16 hours would drive me nuts also :roll:

[SonyaHusko]

Hi! I just found this thread by googling my name (yes, I'm bored. waiting for the kiln to warm up)

EVERY time I have used this color as a base and decorated with Moretti of any kind, it has cracked. Beautiful cracks like old fashioned crackle glass bowls. But I have had no problem pulling it into stringers and decorating a Moretti base bead. My "Waiting for Wisteria" beads all use this gorgeous color, along with silvered ivory and copper green on a base of black, and no cracks in sight. A little bit goes a long way too, as the color tends to spread.

On a side note, I have also use lauscha purple as a base with R-108 (raku) and had no problems at all. The raku is GORGEOUS on the lauscha blue/purple opaques, especially on Prussian Blue.