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1st Glass Beads
2006-03-22, 4:51pm
Do you have any handy tricks for making a set of matching beads? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Sarah

Mr. Smiley
2006-03-22, 5:51pm
Mark your rod at equal lengths with a sharpie... then at least your base bead is the same size to start off with. ;)

wendbill
2006-03-23, 3:50am
Does the sharpie mark burn off without leaving any marks?

People say that plenty of practise helps with making beads the same size. Hasn't worked for me yet. Clearly I need to practise more!

IF-Designs
2006-03-23, 4:04am
I make 2+ on a mandrel so I can keep my sizes consistent.

Mr. Smiley
2006-03-23, 5:08am
The Sharpie does burn off and leaves nothing behind. ;)

chrisdd
2006-03-23, 7:20am
I make 2+ on a mandrel so I can keep my sizes consistent.

Same here.

chrissij
2006-03-23, 7:26am
I've actually never had a problem with that; it seems I just make the same size bead...the only time I end up with some variances is when I use frit, because sometimes you just pick up more or less frit. What I've noticed that I do is really simple. I make my footprint really small (if I "f" up and it's larger than I like, I stop there) and then I wind my glass around my footprint two times, for slightly larger beads, three times, and I end up with the same size beads consistently.

sassy
2006-03-23, 9:37am
As you keep making beads you will automatically melt the same amount of glass each time and your beads will be the same size. The marker trick works too.

KristyN
2006-03-23, 6:09pm
Sarah, sometimes I do what has been mentioned above, but also....

If I make a new, experimental bead and like it (hey, it happens sometimes!), the next day I put it on my bench while torching so I can match it up with either size variances or same size (eyeballing), also for color and patterns. These are usually for earrings or necklaces.

Sometimes I use my calipers for long, tube-like beads or bicones.

Sometimes I use my marble mold not as a shaper, but as an eyeballer for size for beads I will be mashing (lentil mashers, flat mashing with marvering tool on marvering pad, etc.).

I've heard some people when they started pre-cut lengths and picked up with hot punty or tool. This is too cumbersome when you get more experience.

Happy beading, Kristy

prairieson
2006-03-23, 6:21pm
I make 2+ on a mandrel so I can keep my sizes consistent.

That's the one way for me to be certain *not* to make two beads the same size, lol. I couldn't make two matching beads on the same mandrel if my life depended on it, go figure.

I use a variation of the 'artist holding his thumb up' trick. I make the first bead the size I want the others to be. Then I hold the mandrel out and find something on the bench or in the background that "matches" the size of the bead, and that's my template for the rest of the beads.

Believe it or not I can crank out a set of beads that are all within half a millimeter or so in size using this method. Then again, it's about the *only* thing I can do well at the torch, lol.

Kalera
2006-03-23, 6:27pm
John, pics pls! :) I didn't even know you made beads! C'mon, I'm sure I'm not the only one who wants to see 'em! I love your scintillating silica bowl, BTW. I wish it were still unclaimed so I could make it mine.

That's the one way for me to be certain *not* to make two beads the same size, lol. I couldn't make two matching beads on the same mandrel if my life depended on it, go figure.

I use a variation of the 'artist holding his thumb up' trick. I make the first bead the size I want the others to be. Then I hold the mandrel out and find something on the bench or in the background that "matches" the size of the bead, and that's my template for the rest of the beads.

Believe it or not I can crank out a set of beads that are all within half a millimeter or so in size using this method. Then again, it's about the *only* thing I can do well at the torch, lol.

Lisi
2006-03-24, 9:13am
I get asked this question a lot, so I wrote up this tutorial. I think it would be a lot better with pictures though.

I start with a little footprint bead and make sure that is evenly rounded up in the flame. It's important to make sure that you have a well shaped little base bead to start out with, because then you can wind more glass around the equator of this bead. The footprint is already down, so the next wraps of glass will melt in nicely and you will be able to get it evenly rounded without some of the problems that come from an uneven footprint.

I make my beads in 2, 3, 4, and 5 "wraps". Meaning that including the base footprint, the number of times around with another "drip" of glass. I apply each drip separately, I don't keep winding around and around the equator until I think I have enough. The only time I do that is if I'm making a single focal bead.

The "drips" are just the molten tip of the rod, and when it's ready to droop downwards I apply that around the bead, burn off, and melt in one at a time. I have to be careful, sometimes it droops too much if I don't watch it and then it winds up on the work table! I still do that too often with white and ivory...

I tried to do the same thing each time, and after a while my eyes and brain could size up each drip. Once you can do that, you can make a whole bunch and they will wind up being very close in size. With different size rods and even different types of glass rods, the drip sizes will be different. I check the diameters of the rods I'm using, and if I think I'm going to use more than one rod to make a big set of beads, I'll have another of the same diameter set aside.

I usually make a few extra with each set, and chuck aside any that are too big, too small, or not shaped like the others. Sometimes I use too much heat and a bead will become rounder than the others in the set that may be more "donut" shaped. That takes PPP too, but eventually you won't have to chuck aside that many "extras". (BTW - I sell the leftovers from sets on ebay, lol)

Sounds very much like an OCD doesn't it?? LOL!! :D

I hope this helps you! In time you will develop an eye for the glass amount on the mandrel. :)

1st Glass Beads
2006-03-24, 7:30pm
Thanks for all your input; there's allot to ppp with. Let's see; get the marker out, make a drip, stick up your thumb... I think I've got it!!!
So far, all my beads are orphans. Maybe someday they will have mates. lol

DarleenMB
2006-03-25, 2:20pm
practice
practice
practice

CorvetteJuliet
2006-03-26, 6:58am
I keep a 'reference' bead on my table. When I think the bead is the right size, I hold the reference next to it to check. If I'm doing something with decoration, I'll use 2 beads - the base size and then the final size. ~Juliet

1st Glass Beads
2006-03-26, 7:01am
reference beads...hmm...that's a great idea. Thanks, Juliet

DarleenMB
2006-03-26, 10:13am
Should have added I also keep a short, metal ruler on my bench for quick measurements AND I have a tin of reference beads handy which are kept on a mandrel so they can't run away.

But I still say PPP works the best. I have no problem anymore whipping out 8mm x 10mm beads that are all within a hair of each other.

and for certain pressed beads, same thing.

It's practice, I tell ya. When I used to sew all my own clothes, it got to where I could eyeball 5/8" dead on the money. Used to drive me nuts.

wfdebicki
2010-03-19, 11:20am
This is a great thread! Such great ideas and all so different!
Here is my method.

I have certain standard sizes I like to make. My bench is sheet metal. Right beside my torch I have two sets of guage marks drawn on with permanent marker. The first set of marks are just 4 simple strokes that line up with the top and bottom and each side of the footprint for each standard size. Right below each of these is a box drawn around the finished bead for each corresponding standard.

So my working process goes like this.

1. Decide on the standard size I want to use and identify the corresponding footprint size.

2. Wind glass on to match the footprint size. I simply wind the glass on and hold it over the marks to guage how close I am and then add more or remove glass as needed. Having the marks right beside the torch makes this very easy.

3. When my footprint is the right size I add more glass until the bead fills the corresponding finished box that is drawn right below the footprint pattern.

4. Shape the bead beyond the basic round as desired. Having the footprints and final dimensions established means my finished mashed beads, cubes etc. are all quite consistent from the get go.

Fine Folly Glassworks
2010-03-19, 12:06pm
Do you have any handy tricks for making a set of matching beads? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Sarah

No one offered this option so I wanted to add it. As a new lampworker this past year, I have worked hard at making beads the same size, and done the "make 100 spacer beads" exercise with 3 different colors - black, white and clear. That was a great exercise, but I have to say that I now LOVE the graphite bead rollers I just got.

A graphite Beadroller makes it so quick and uniform when producing multiples is the issue.

Here's a link to their round rollers. I think they are worth the money! I love mine!

http://www.cgbeads.com/beads_round.html

Calypso
2010-03-19, 12:19pm
Zooziis has a press to make round glass beads in various sizes. The press is "Rounds or Spheres"

ellyloo
2010-03-19, 12:23pm
For me, also making more than 2 on a mandrel is the best way, and the quickest way for me to make a small set! (I have been able to make between 5&9, i'm SO proud of me). Means my beads are a touch smaller each, but 3 mandrels full gets 15 beads!!

Graphite marble molds, osibin shapers and rollers are wonderful for guaging size.

Lisi
2010-03-19, 12:37pm
I've tried every way possible discussed on this forum over the last 7 years and I found that the way I described above (this is an old thread!) has worked the best for me by far. I don't like tools or other things in my way while I'm working. It's just me, the flame, and one bead on the mandrel to focus on....one bead at a time. It's all about training your "eye" and brain to see what you want them to see.

You would be surprised what your memory can do for you. :)

Fine Folly Glassworks
2010-03-19, 2:34pm
I've tried every way possible discussed on this forum over the last 7 years and I found that the way I described above (this is an old thread!) has worked the best for me by far. I don't like tools or other things in my way while I'm working. It's just me, the flame, and one bead on the mandrel to focus on....one bead at a time. It's all about training your "eye" and brain to see what you want them to see.

You would be surprised what your memory can do for you. :)

Lisi,

I really liked your idea of one wrap at a time. That makes so much sense to be able to duplicate the same number of wraps in the next one. I'm going to try that!

Lisi
2010-03-19, 3:07pm
Lisi,

I really liked your idea of one wrap at a time. That makes so much sense to be able to duplicate the same number of wraps in the next one. I'm going to try that!

Yep, and the trick is wrapping at precisely the moment that the drip wants to "let go", and then winding off the rod all the way to burn-off. This way you are getting the same amount of glass each time. :)

See, when the drip wants to drip (LOL!) this is by the laws of physics. As long as the flame is not changing or the actual composition of the glass, and you keep your "sweet" place in the flame, it's the same each time.

Turn your rod in your fingers (like rotating a pencil) to help melt your drip easier. But then when it's ready to drip, stop turning it and get ready to wrap.

Fine Folly Glassworks
2010-03-19, 6:43pm
Awesome! Can't wait to put it in practice! Thank you again!