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I HAVE to learn how to do a pendant!!! I have seen beautiful ones made by lots of you, so I just KNOW someone will be sweet enough to post a tut...please???? Thank you all for all the great tuts here already...I have learned so much...
Thanks, Chad...I have been looking everywhere...I am going to go for this right now!!
That's a great tutorial! Thanks for sharing!
Love ALL the tutorials on your site. Answered a lot of questions for me.
Great tutorials! I loved them all! Thanks for sharing!
Thank you so much !=D> =D>
thanks so much chad!
Will have to give it a try
Great tutorials! :D
Everytime I have ever let a bead not be in the flame for a while when I put it back into the flame it explodes. Is there a trick I don't know about? I waft it to try not to shock it but have never been able to sucessfully reintroduce to the flame.
"A while" is too long, unless you are parking it in your kiln. Try introducing it by poking in and out of the farthest part of your flame. If you have to have it out a while, put in fiber blanket.
Hope that helps.
In the tut he sits aside the pendant while he makes a bead then attaches the pendant so the bead becomes a bail, sort of. I don't think I could pull this off. I have tried poking it in and out of the far part of the flame - that is what I ment by saying I waft it in the flame. Sorry if I didn't explain that right.
I believe Chad works with boro mostly so it is alot easier but I do it with soft glass all the time. Work quickly on the bail or just learn to do one off mandrel!
The trick to doing one in soft glass and using a bead as the bail is make the bead before and garage it in the kiln, when you pull it out put it way out in the flame and gently bring it back in. It would be better if you can garage it at about 1000 degrees and then you won't have any problem with it shocking.
Another way is to make the pendant part and then figure out where you want the top to be. Put a very large dot of glass (for bail) at the top let it set slightly and use some peters tweezers or get a pair of plyers with bent tips from Brent (mr smiley) squeeze on either side of the dot (the way you want the hole to go) (evenly heat your pendant! can't forget that part LOL) gently heat the dot but not really hot, take a tungston pick and place the point in the hole (it won't be all the way through yet probably) heat the tungston pick while gently pushing it in the hole presto it drills the glass. Once you have the hole you can heat it and use a reamer and make it bigger and re-center it if you need to. Using a tungston pick is easiest to learn if you have someone show you.
hope this helps
Chris Ann thanks. I can almost get what you are saying. I' going to have to print out your tip and read it as I do it. It should help a real lot.
Thought I thought the tut was very clear and great, I was scared! I wasn't sure what a cold seal was and worried that I'd do it wrong. I followed my instinct and was almost right, but still had no problems. My sigh of releif came when the punty tapped right off the pendant.
As for making the bail bead, it's easy, it's small, and can be done within a reasonable time frame. I didn't have any problems or cracking by setting my pendants aside. As soon as my glass for my bail was on the mandrel, I brought the pendant back into the top of the flame while I finished shaping the bail in the lower part of the flame.
Just make sure you put the two together so that the bale faces the right way (I didn't on my first!)
Here they are!
I do it in soft glass all the time. If you heat it back up slowly, it shouldn't be a problem. One thing you can do is keep some fiber blanket next to the torch. Once you are done with the pendant and ready for the loop, stick the pendant in the fiber blanket. It won't cool as much, and it will be easier to heat back up.
But, I never do that, and don't have much problem.
I loved this tutorial but I was having a huge problem with puntying up to the front of the pendant. and then later releasing without leaving glass that would "mess" up the dots or other pattern. I can see if it was encased, it wouldn't make as big a difference. Any pointers or can you point me to a tutorial.
I didn't have to punty to the front, so I wonder if we were looking at the same tutorial. I started with a clear rod which became the front of the pendant; I only had to punty up to the back.
Only one time did I leave anything behind, and I think that was because I had too much heat when I applied the punty.
Both tutorials say to punty up to the face or front of the pendant. I'm thinking I might be able to do it without but wonder how straight I can hold it as I melt in the back. Hmmm, Chad? Any tips? 8-[
Yeah. I started making them that way, then realized I was making a lot of extra work for myself. Now I make the pendant on a clear rod, make the design, put the back on, then just punty to the back, burn of the clear rod, shape, and put it into the kiln.
Now that my shop is open again, I'm going to try to update those tutorials as soon as I can...
I make mine the way Chad does. I learned it in the implosion pendant tutorial, which starts with the clear rod which becomes the face. The only time I add a punty is after my design has been backed by another color, and that punty goes on the back. I burn off the clear, which I started with, and melt in for the front of the pendant.
Thanks to you both for that update....I'm going to keep trying with this new tip! I really appreciate taking the time to make the tutorial and answering questions...
Thanks so much,
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