M-10 vs Devilbiss? checking output? connecting?

[CarolinaDreamDesigns]

OK - I have used a Devilbiss Solaris 505 concentrator with what I was told was 10 psi and up to 5 lpm. I also have a M-10 that is suppose to have settings of 10 psi and 8-10 lpm. Is that an accurate listing? Would two Devilbiss concentrator have done just as well? How can I check output?

IF I can find a y-connector, how should I put the two together? Devilbiss - M10 - torch or M10 to Devilbiss to torch? What would the two of them together give me?

I get some varying results with the concentrators and torch/tank settings. Not always good variance. What would be the best settings for them if I was working soft vs hard glass? and basically - how can I tell what they are actually putting out?

Thanks - I'm having some frustrating torch sessions lately and the more information I have the better.

:-k

Martha

[kbinkster]

Martha, what torch are you running?

Did you move from tanks to the concentrators? If so, how does your flame now compare to then?

You would need a flowmeter and an oxygen purity meter to know for certain what is being put out, but you should be able to guesstimate whether or not you're getting enough oxygen, at least.

What does your flame look like? Is it easy to get a neutral flame? How is your glass reacting?

Two concentrators connected would be better than one, if they are both putting out good oxygen purity. If you hook up a true 10 lpm/10 psi machine to a true 5 lpm/10 psi machine, you will get 15 lpm at 10 psi.

[CarolinaDreamDesigns]

Martha, what torch are you running?

Did you move from tanks to the concentrators? If so, how does your flame now compare to then?

You would need a flowmeter and an oxygen purity meter to know for certain what is being put out, but you should be able to guesstimate whether or not you're getting enough oxygen, at least.

What does your flame look like? Is it easy to get a neutral flame? How is your glass reacting?

Two concentrators connected would be better than one, if they are both putting out good oxygen purity. If you hook up a true 10 lpm/10 psi machine to a true 5 lpm/10 psi machine, you will get 15 lpm at 10 psi.


HMmmm ok - I'm using a Piranha, have only used concentrators, and I'm not sure about the flames. I think I'm running them neutral or oxidising but am not sure. The flame seems to be real small when I dial it down to make sure I don't get the yellow tips on the main cicle of flames. Part of what's I'm noticing is I seemed to get good color in the beginning but now have duller or muddier colors in the boro but I'm new and that may be me!

I may also be having a concern with the propane regulator. It has this tendancy to migrate. I set it at one setting and then check it and it has gone higher or lower. That's with an almost full tank. I need to play more.

Any suggestions would be appreciated as what to watch.

Thank you!

Martha

[kbinkster]

HMmmm ok - I'm using a Piranha, have only used concentrators, and I'm not sure about the flames.

I recall someone on this board highly recommending the M-10/Piranha set-up as the way to go for several new people getting into boro. So, you would think that your torch would run just fine on the M-10 alone.

I wouldn't expect it to run its best on just the 5 lpm unit. I think that a Piranha can run on a 5 lpm machine, probably enough to do soft glass just fine; but like any other torch in that size range, it will do much better on two 5 lpm machines or one 10 lpm machine or larger.

I think I'm running them neutral or oxidising but am not sure. The flame seems to be real small when I dial it down to make sure I don't get the yellow tips on the main cicle of flames.

A neutral flame will have candles that have a little bit of a yellow or white tip to them. They should be 1/4" (about the width of a Moretti rod) to 3/8" in length. An oxidizing flame will not have any yellow or white tips to the candles.

Part of what's I'm noticing is I seemed to get good color in the beginning but now have duller or muddier colors in the boro but I'm new and that may be me!

Bethlehem torches tend to have a more reductive flame atmosphere. That could be one cause of the dull colors. To get the heat you need to work the boro, you could be pushing the torch harder and getting into that reduction flame.

It could just be that you aren't getting enough oxygen.

With the 5 lpm machine, my guess is that you aren't getting enough flow.

With the M-10, it should be putting out enough flow, so perhaps the purity is poor.

It's hard to know what your flame should look like if you have never used tanked oxygen.

Is there any way you can take your unit to a medical supply place to have them test the purity for you?

I may also be having a concern with the propane regulator. It has this tendancy to migrate. I set it at one setting and then check it and it has gone higher or lower. That's with an almost full tank. I need to play more.

O.K., when you turn on your tank, set your propane pressure about 5 psi higher than you want it. Then, go back to your torch and light it (making sure that your ventilation is running and all that). Leave the torch on and go back to the regulator. Check your pressure. If it isn't already where it should be, set it. Go back to the torch and see what happens from there. If you still get fluctuations after that, it could be because you have a single stage regulator and they do funny things.






You can try hooking the units together to see if there is any improvement. But, if one unit (or both) is putting out bad purity, it might not be that much of an improvement.:-?

[CarolinaDreamDesigns]

I recall someone on this board highly recommending the M-10/Piranha set-up as the way to go for several new people getting into boro. So, you would think that your torch would run just fine on the M-10 alone.

Is there any way you can take your unit to a medical supply place to have them test the purity for you?

O.K., when you turn on your tank, set your propane pressure about 5 psi higher than you want it. Then, go back to your torch and light it (making sure that your ventilation is running and all that). Leave the torch on and go back to the regulator. Check your pressure. If it isn't already where it should be, set it. Go back to the torch and see what happens from there. If you still get fluctuations after that, it could be because you have a single stage regulator and they do funny things.

O it was great when I first hooked up the M-10 - started playing with boro and got what I thought were good colors and melted great and all but it dropped off a bit. Things don't seem to be having the same "ummph". When I did get the unit - one wheel had been broken in shipping and I have a replacement wheel coming - the unit seems to run fine but I'm wondering how I would know? I never tried boro with the 5 lpm unit but the soft glass melted fine when I could get my gas to stabilze. So I am trying to figure out how to check the various components of my setup so I can tell if anything is not performing up to par and how to tell to adjust. I like information.

I'll try what you suggested on the propane and see if it helps and see if we have a medical place I can take it to for checking.

Otherwise - I'll just have to schedule a "test every configuration" day and see if I can figure it out!?

Thank you!!

Martha

[Ellen Black]

Hi, You can get a Y connectors from Paulette , www.suncoastbeads.com
She has the check valves in the hoses. I believe you have to email her about the hose.

[Mr. Smiley]

If it was running the torch better before, I'd call South Central and talk to Jack.

You can just use a Y connector to run the two units together. Since they are both 10 PSI, they will piggy back well. You shouldn't need to with the M-10 and the Piranha. I've run that set up and it's a great match. I'd ask Jack how you can check the unit, just to make sure it's right... ;) :love: