Making Bead Release - Help (Weak)!! [Archive]

bastillebleu

2011-09-23, 6:58pm

Ive started making my own bead release, but as creamy and smooth that it is, its having a hard time holding when Im trying to make a bead.

Im currently mixing kiln shelf wash and alumina hydrate in equal parts with water (like a thicker pancake mix consistency).

My question is..... is there something I can add to the mix to give it more strength?? Should I adjust the amounts differently?

Any help would be so appreciated! I really dont want to have to go back to shelling out $$ for release if I can make my own for pennies.

Thanks!

Nikki :kiss:

Deb Hopeful Journeys

2011-09-23, 7:18pm

Have you read this yet?

http://glassbeadmakers.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=1000

Deb Hopeful Journeys

2011-09-23, 7:21pm

http://www.flamesongbeadworks.com/article_2/My-Bead-Release-Recipe.htm

Deb Hopeful Journeys

2011-09-23, 7:21pm

one more, lol

http://warmglass.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=32106&view=previous

artsyuno

2011-09-24, 12:04am

Nikki, that recipe works best a little on the thin side. It's not the hardiest, though. I like it for spacer beads, because it's easy to remove them from the mandrel.

Art of Hand

2011-09-24, 12:28am

I used to add graphite powder to my mix.

bastillebleu

2011-09-24, 1:20am

No, I hadnt. Thanks! Now to find the ingredients I dont have to make this work, lol. I hope I can find them here in the US!

Have you read this yet?

http://glassbeadmakers.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=1000

bastillebleu

2011-09-24, 1:23am

Mine's definitely thinner than I usually like it. Unfortunately, I make larger beads and sculptural so it has to hold up at least a little bit through that process and mine currently isnt holding long enough to get glass wound on the mandrel.

:(

Nikki, that recipe works best a little on the thin side. It's not the hardiest, though. I like it for spacer beads, because it's easy to remove them from the mandrel.

bastillebleu

2011-09-24, 1:29am

I'll try that! Thanks.

How does the graphite benefit the mix, do you know? Is to makes it stronger/holding? Im not partial the graphic.... I hate the mess it makes in my sink when Im removing beads from the mandrels. Yuck.

I used to add graphite powder to my mix.

bastillebleu

2011-09-24, 1:31am

Thanks Deb!

i read he had some difficulty with getting some off the mandrel. With my fibro... not sure I want to spend that much energy struggling to get the beads off and possibly bending my mandrels.... but Im bookmarking it just in case! :D

one more, lol

http://warmglass.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=32106&view=previous

bastillebleu

2011-09-24, 1:36am

Good lord! How on earth am I supposed to heat the alumina hydrate in my kiln to 1200 degrees before I can mix it (when cooled)??? Oh boy....

http://www.flamesongbeadworks.com/article_2/My-Bead-Release-Recipe.htm

shawnette

2011-09-24, 6:12am

shawnette

2011-09-24, 6:22am

Or you could just order some Alice's. It comes powdered so you're not paying to ship water weight. A 1lb bag lasts a really long time. I suspect her recipe is the same as mine or at least pretty darned close.

http://www.beadrelease.com/

Deb Hopeful Journeys

2011-09-24, 7:10am

I have some unused Alice release in powder form if you are interested in it? Let me know and i can find a price.

Or you could just order some Alice's. It comes powdered so you're not paying to ship water weight. A 1lb bag lasts a really long time. I suspect her recipe is the same as mine or at least pretty darned close.

http://www.beadrelease.com/

BrownGirl

2011-09-24, 8:49am

I mix equal parts kaolin, alumina hydrate & silica. You can also use some bentonite (I save that one for my face & hair. It's an excellent cleanser!). The graphite makes the beads slide off easier. I don't heat anything first and it works great, the beads clean out easily. Run it through your blender for an even smoother mix.

You can get all of the ingredients at a pottery supply store, like Axner. We have one locally, so maybe you do, too. (I ordered my graphite from ebay, years ago but I don't usually put it in my mix. It doesn't really need it.)

I have a ceramic store local to me and this stuff is CHEAP in 5# bags. Wow! I am thinking of going over and getting the supplies to make some. The only thing that is a little confusing is that some of these powders come in different mesh sizes. what does that mean? Should I get a higher or lower mesh size? I am excited about this!

BrownGirl

2011-09-24, 11:46am

Okay, I just got back from the pottery store with 20#'s of everything mentioned she used in her release. I spent just under $18. How is that possible? I hope I got the right stuff. I'll get to mixing and experimenting today. I also found some powdered graphite at a small local hardware. It was $3 for 4oz. I bought one just to give it a try.

Well, here goes nothing! I'll report back later!

shawnette

2011-09-24, 3:56pm

BrownGirl

2011-09-24, 7:48pm

Holy sh*t, girl! 1lb each would have lasted you about a year.

LOL. The 1# bags were half the price. I didn't really know what I was getting so when I told the guy what I wanted, I then paid and he went to the back to weigh it out. He came back with these huge bags. I almost fainted. Oh well. Maybe I'll start my own little bead release company!

I am just thankful it doesn't go bad and I can just store it. I still can't believe I got it all for well under $20. That's crazy. I have been paying almost that for a single container of bead release. That just ticks me off.

Tillie

2011-09-24, 8:47pm

Monica, if you do have your own lil bead release mfg plant going on, and decide to sell any of it, I'd be happy to buy a pound or two from you. I need a really good bead release and kiln wash for my big kiln. Let me know, okay?

shawnette

2011-09-24, 9:09pm

LOL. The 1# bags were half the price. I didn't really know what I was getting so when I told the guy what I wanted, I then paid and he went to the back to weigh it out. He came back with these huge bags. I almost fainted. Oh well. Maybe I'll start my own little bead release company!

I am just thankful it doesn't go bad and I can just store it. I still can't believe I got it all for well under $20. That's crazy. I have been paying almost that for a single container of bead release. That just ticks me off.

If you got Bentonite & Kaolin, both are excellent masks for your face & hair:

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1142752962289&set=a.1003588243258.2001014.1031422189&type=1

bastillebleu

2011-09-25, 12:05am

Thanks! I'll try that! :D

Nikki

I mix equal parts kaolin, alumina hydrate & silica. You can also use some bentonite (I save that one for my face & hair. It's an excellent cleanser!). The graphite makes the beads slide off easier. I don't heat anything first and it works great, the beads clean out easily. Run it through your blender for an even smoother mix.

You can get all of the ingredients at a pottery supply store, like Axner. We have one locally, so maybe you do, too. (I ordered my graphite from ebay, years ago but I don't usually put it in my mix. It doesn't really need it.)

bastillebleu

2011-09-25, 12:11am

Definitely! How much do you have??

I have some unused Alice release in powder form if you are interested in it? Let me know and i can find a price.

bastillebleu

2011-09-25, 12:12am

Cant wait to hear your findings! :D

Okay, I just got back from the pottery store with 20#'s of everything mentioned she used in her release. I spent just under $18. How is that possible? I hope I got the right stuff. I'll get to mixing and experimenting today. I also found some powdered graphite at a small local hardware. It was $3 for 4oz. I bought one just to give it a try.

Well, here goes nothing! I'll report back later!

BrownGirl

2011-09-25, 9:53am

Okay so let me just say that I didn't get things mixed until early this morning. Why? Well, fellow torchers, I am a little OCD. I didn't want to use any of my food containers, whisks or measuring devices that I use for food. I went to the Dollar Tree this morning and bought all the mixing supplies and storage containers for the chemicals.

So, now, with my particulate respirator on, I made up a mixture. I have taken notes so I can know what I did in case I have to modify it a little. I sifted it for a long time to get it mixed well and get out the lumps. I mixed in the water and it's sitting now kinda soaking. It looks pretty great, I must say, so far. I am going to let it sit a couple more hours and then I am going to dip some mandrels and try it out. I am so excited!!! If it works good with my torching session later, I would LOVE some feedback so, I will mail out samples for anyone interested if you are willing to pay shipping. I'll get back to you all about that later.

P.S.: Shawnette, I will be asking you more questions about the bentonite as a cleanser later. That link to your Facebook page... well, you look 12 years old and I know you have said before that you have at least one college age kid. If I can look like that, I want to know exactly what to do to get those results! *laughs*

lindacw

2011-09-25, 1:27pm

I would love to be a tester. get back with me regarding shipping, etc.

BrownGirl

2011-09-25, 4:27pm

Okay, I made 3 batches. The first batch seemed really really thin so I made a second batch with a little extra of ingredient #3 and added a little less water and still, pretty thin. So I made a third batch with different ingredients and I weighed all the ingredients dry before mixing and added even less water. The 3rd batch was much much thicker. All three batches worked beautifully and perfectly.

Batch 1, while very thin required double dipping. I had to dip the mandrels (8) and give them a few seconds to set. By the time I dipped the eighth one, I could go back and dip the first. Kind of a pain but nothing I couldn't work with. By the time all 8 were double dipped, I could flame dry them and then go to work. It worked great and seems fairy tough. I used frit, mashers and did some poking and used my disk roller and not a single one broke.

Batch 2 required double dipping as well. This time I could dip, tap gently and redip immediately. I should mention that this batch, as well as batch one ran. Not all the way down the mandrel but an inch or two past the working area. I could also flame dry these. Again I used frit, mashers, disk roller, tube roller and did some poking and no breakage.

Batch 3 was pretty thick. They did not need to be double dipped. The release clung perfectly and was quite a bit darker in colour than the other two. This mixture could NOT be flame dried. I tried and it sizzled and cracked off. I had to let them air dry while I worked on other mandrels. Once they dried they were super strong and lovely to work on. Lots of frit rolling, mashing and poking with some disk rolling. No breakage at all! They didn't take too Long to dry. I also tried flame drying two of the last ones before they were Completely air dried and since they were mostly set, flame drying them the rest of the way did not hurt them the way flame drying did immediately after being dipped.

Now I have to see how they come off the mandrel. They are either going to be awesome or I just lost 24 mandrels. LOL. More reporting later tonight!

ETA: I have been using some bead release from Frantz that I bought locally. It's great to make a simple bead. However, try working it at all on a slightly abusive level and it always breaks on me. I tend to be pretty heavy handed while I am getting my flame on.

Deb Hopeful Journeys

2011-09-25, 5:10pm

Definitely! How much do you have??

I think it is either 1lb or 2lb. I will check and see if I can find it in my studio. I haven't unpacked everything since the flood.

http://beadrelease.com/

Eileen

2011-09-25, 6:25pm

I don't clean mine in the sink, I use a jar and pour it out in the garden. I don't know for sure, but don't like the idea of the bead release in the pipes and drain.
Anyone more knowledgeable that can give me some scoop?

I'll try that! Thanks.

How does the graphite benefit the mix, do you know? Is to makes it stronger/holding? Im not partial the graphic.... I hate the mess it makes in my sink when Im removing beads from the mandrels. Yuck.

BrownGirl

2011-09-25, 6:40pm

Okay, bead release RELEASE report...

Okay, batch #1, having a little trouble on the actual release. I have four mandrels still soaking. The other 4 required a pair of pliers and some banging.

Batch #2 was better. A couple needed some plier grip but no banging.

Batch #3 came loose perfectly. No problems at all. Yay!

carolinainmymind

2011-09-25, 6:42pm

Let me know if you are still looking for testers...

BrownGirl

2011-09-25, 6:55pm

I am going to to a little messing around with batch #2 and batch #3. Give me a couple of days and I will get back to everyone that was willing to help out. I am by no means looking to start selling this stuff. I am looking to make it better for myself and well, you know me, I am always sharing and trading my crap. *laughs* but really, I am tired of spending so much money on the biggest throw away supply part of our art. And, once I gt the recipe nailed down, I am so posting it everywhere!

squid

2011-09-25, 7:02pm

I don't clean mine in the sink, I use a jar and pour it out in the garden. I don't know for sure, but don't like the idea of the bead release in the pipes and drain.
Anyone more knowledgeable that can give me some scoop?

Bead release will clog your drain - you should definitely not clean them in your sink and let the water run down the drain.

BrownGirl

2011-09-25, 7:05pm

Bead release will clog your drain - you should definitely not clean them in your sink and let the water run down the drain.

Uh oh. Well, luckily I haven't been at this all that long. I really had no idea. I will be changing my ways.

Eileen

2011-09-25, 8:18pm

Bead release will clog your drain - you should definitely not clean them in your sink and let the water run down the drain.

Thank you for the confirmation, & I hope Nikki comes back & sees this. I'd hate for her to mess up her plumbing.

shawnette

2011-09-25, 8:23pm

Bead release will clog your drain - you should definitely not clean them in your sink and let the water run down the drain.

This is true.

Uh oh. Well, luckily I haven't been at this all that long. I really had no idea. I will be changing my ways.

But nothing to panic about if you've only done a few. I've been making beads for 6 years and always clean at the sink and let it run down the drain and haven't clogged my sink yet, but I don't make a ton of beads, nor dod i do it every day, either.

shawnette

2011-09-25, 8:26pm

FYI, if your release is too runny, you just let it sit uncapped for a while and the water will rise to the top and you can pour of the excess. Or let it sit uncapped for a while longer and it will evaporate.

If it's too thick, just add a bit more water. Distilled is best, but I've never had an issue with my tap water.

bastillebleu

2011-09-26, 12:14am

Let me and I'll buy it off ya! :D

I think it is either 1lb or 2lb. I will check and see if I can find it in my studio. I haven't unpacked everything since the flood.

http://beadrelease.com/

bastillebleu

2011-09-26, 12:16am

Just read this. Yikes. Okay... will be cleaning the beads in a bucket and then disposing outside. Thanks for letting me know. I hope I havent damaged my pipes! Hubby wouldnt be happy. :(

Thank you for the confirmation, & I hope Nikki comes back & sees this. I'd hate for her to mess up her plumbing.

bastillebleu

2011-09-26, 12:21am

Will it do damage to the pipes or just clog? Whatever the answer, I'll not be cleaning in the sink anymore!

This is one of those "live and learn" moments for me....

Nikki

Bead release will clog your drain - you should

definitely not clean them in your sink and let the water run down the drain.

Beadanna

2011-09-26, 2:15am

I think it clogs, not damages the pipes Nikki. . .

angelique_redhead

2011-09-26, 2:19am

It builds up in the U joint like grease can except you can put stuff down the sink that will dissolve the grease. Bead release is like dirt or sediment and doesn't dissolve. :love: Angelique

Beadanna

2011-09-26, 2:21am

The postman just delivered three big bottle of BoM.
While I'm thrilled I'm also thinking it would be good to try the dry "dilute it yourself" stuff.
Good for you Monica! I like the sound of Number 3. (Why do I not have a hash key on my computer?)

houptdavid

2011-09-26, 7:49am

Just replace the sink p-trap with something like this...

http://www.sinktrap.net/?gclid=CLSyi_6Tu6sCFWwZQgodUEGgbg

bastillebleu

2011-09-27, 12:23am

Oops! Hehe.... I guess Im going to have to break the bad news to the hubby then. Our sink has been draining VERY slow lately.... and I *do* make beads for the most part, everyday for the past 5 years. :\

It needed to be cleaned out anyway. :D

It builds up in the U joint like grease can except you can put stuff down the sink that will dissolve the grease. Bead release is like dirt or sediment and doesn't dissolve. :love: Angelique

bastillebleu

2011-09-27, 12:27am

Wow... this is awesome! Thanks David! :)

Just replace the sink p-trap with something like this...

http://www.sinktrap.net/?gclid=CLSyi_6Tu6sCFWwZQgodUEGgbg

shawnette

2011-09-27, 4:55am

Just replace the sink p-trap with something like this...

http://www.sinktrap.net/?gclid=CLSyi_6Tu6sCFWwZQgodUEGgbg

You can also get sink traps at pottery supply stores.

Jenne

2011-09-27, 10:30am

Your next test needs to be to dip the mandrels and let them sit for a week or 2 before using them.

Sounds like I would love to test batch #3 ;)

Batch #1, add a smidge of graphite for ease of removal and see if it affects holding power?

Kalera

2011-09-27, 10:40am

My highly precise scientific bead release recipe is 1/2 kiln wash and 1/2 alumina hydrate, both from Seattle Pottery Supply, measured by eyeball approximation into a 1 gallon pickle jar and accompanied by a fairly random measure of diatomaceous earth. Sometimes I leave the DE out. I put the lid on, shake the mixture, let it settle, and then scoop it into my eternally-replenishing bead release jar with however much water seems about right.

I've been doing this for about eight years and it works beautifully.

BrownGirl

2011-09-27, 12:00pm

Mountain Snail

2011-09-27, 1:11pm

I clean my beads in a bucket in the sink and then dump the water out elsewhere.

sean.m

2011-09-27, 1:37pm

Kalera

2011-09-27, 2:08pm

Kalera,
Do you use this with your boro too? Thanks!

Yep! I use it for everything, no problems.

sean.m

2011-09-27, 2:28pm

Kalera..Thanks!

squid

2011-09-27, 3:22pm

Yeah, it clogs - and it does take a lot to clog. It's just heavy and settles into the trap of drains and eventually clogs. Unless you're clogged, you're fine. No need to worry.

squid

2011-09-27, 3:23pm

I have mandrels dipped over a year ago that are still as good as new. lol Fusion is bad ass.

Lyssa

2011-09-27, 3:35pm

Squid, you must not live in a humid climate. :) I dip my mandrels and within a few days you can see rust spots on the bead release, seeping up from the rusting metal underneath the release. Totally ruins the release, making it very difficult to remove beads. I use both BOM and Universal.

I have mandrels dipped over a year ago that are still as good as new. lol Fusion is bad ass.

shawnette

2011-09-27, 4:01pm

BOM is one of the worst releases I've ever used. My go-to is Sludge (all of them). I've had mandrels that were dipped for over 3 years that still worked great and no problems with beads sticking. (If you do get a stuck bead, use a rivet tool to remove it). You can't get much more humid than Florida, lol.

BrownGirl

2011-09-27, 5:30pm

What is kiln wash and is this something I should be using in my new kiln?

shawnette

2011-09-27, 5:36pm

Kiln wash keeps glass from sticking to the brick in a brick kiln. I've never used it, since I don't fuse. I just put fiber blanket in my brick kiln when I had it. My every day annealer is a Chili Pepper which is fiber blanket. You don't want to use kiln wash on that.

SilverRiverJewelry

2011-09-27, 5:45pm

so marking for later.

squid

2011-09-27, 6:47pm

Squid, you must not live in a humid climate. :) I dip my mandrels and within a few days you can see rust spots on the bead release, seeping up from the rusting metal underneath the release. Totally ruins the release, making it very difficult to remove beads. I use both BOM and Universal.

I live in NC - it's almost as humid as Florida :lol: A little rust doesn't hurt the release :p

Kalera

2011-09-27, 6:56pm

Eileen

2011-09-27, 7:23pm

I'm glad to hear that, because I've been using them too.

bastillebleu

2011-09-28, 12:13am

Thats exactly what I use also.... and I bought it from the same place. Im wondering if I got the mix amounts screwed up somehow. I dont use the DE tho. Does this make a difference?

My highly precise scientific bead release recipe is 1/2 kiln wash and 1/2 alumina hydrate, both from Seattle Pottery Supply, measured by eyeball approximation into a 1 gallon pickle jar and accompanied by a fairly random measure of diatomaceous earth. Sometimes I leave the DE out. I put the lid on, shake the mixture, let it settle, and then scoop it into my eternally-replenishing bead release jar with however much water seems about right.

I've been doing this for about eight years and it works beautifully.

bastillebleu

2011-09-28, 12:17am

Yeah, I noticed that too from time to time but most of the time, my mandrels never last that long since I torch daily and Im always redipping often.... thus the need to make my own release!
:)

It's very, ahm, moist here. Not in summer so much, but the other 11 months are VERY moist. My coated mandrels usually starts to show rust spots after about a week, but I just use them anyway and it seems not to matter.

Beadanna

2011-09-28, 12:22am

The diatomacious earth will make it easier to remove beads Nikki. So don't add it since that's not the problem.

BrownGirl

2011-09-28, 6:49am

It's very, ahm, moist here. Not in summer so much, but the other 11 months are VERY moist. My coated mandrels usually starts to show rust spots after about a week, but I just use them anyway and it seems not to matter.

Omg. You just said moist. You have ruined this thread for me! LOL Moist is one of those words that makes me want to cry.

Kalera

2011-09-28, 7:48am

Thats exactly what I use also.... and I bought it from the same place. Im wondering if I got the mix amounts screwed up somehow. I dont use the DE tho. Does this make a difference?

I don't think the DE is necessary, and I often leave it out. I am not at all careful or precise with the mix amounts, so I'm wondering if it has something to do with your water... are you using bottled/distilled, or tap water? I use tap water, but I understand that in areas with extremely hard water sometimes it's treated to keep mineral deposits down, and that can interfere with bead release holding up.

The other thought I had was, I let mine sit for 24 hours before dipping. I don't even know why, I just remember hearing that I should. Probably Michael told me to do it. Are you dipping right after you mix, or a day later?

Kalera

2011-09-28, 7:48am

Omg. You just said moist. You have ruined this thread for me! LOL Moist is one of those words that makes me want to cry.

:lol: My friend Brian also hates that word. HATES.

shawnette

2011-09-28, 10:55am

... Moist is one of those words that makes me want to cry.

Me too! With laughter. :lol::lol::lol:

BrownGirl

2011-09-28, 11:26am

I ordered some of that DE stuff. Just a little. My bead release is working SO well however; while I can punish the crap out of it on the madrel, I still had to use some pliers and a rubber grippy to get the beads off. None broke or chipped but, the graphite didn't work so hopefully that stuff will. We'll see.

bastillebleu

2011-09-29, 12:08am

Good to know! THanks!

:)

The diatomacious earth will make it easier to remove beads Nikki. So don't add it since that's not the problem.

bastillebleu

2011-09-29, 12:10am

I do use tap water in my mix... and I also dip right away rather than letting it sit. I'll have to try that and see if I dont get better results!

Thanks Kalera. :)

Nikki

I don't think the DE is necessary, and I often leave it out. I am not at all careful or precise with the mix amounts, so I'm wondering if it has something to do with your water... are you using bottled/distilled, or tap water? I use tap water, but I understand that in areas with extremely hard water sometimes it's treated to keep mineral deposits down, and that can interfere with bead release holding up.

The other thought I had was, I let mine sit for 24 hours before dipping. I don't even know why, I just remember hearing that I should. Probably Michael told me to do it. Are you dipping right after you mix, or a day later?

Kalera

2011-09-29, 11:25am

Let us know if it works for you!

glassmaker

2011-09-30, 11:19am

Good lord! How on earth am I supposed to heat the alumina hydrate in my kiln to 1200 degrees before I can mix it (when cooled)??? Oh boy....

You won't need to heat it if you use aluminum oxide (AKA: alumina) instead of hydrated alumina. Same thing without the hydrate (water). It may be a little harder to find though. If you have a problem finding it, check with suppliers of grinding/polishing equipment. You'll probably want the finest grit/powder they have.

If you do want to heat hydrated alumina instead, you'll only need to get it to just above 400F, which is the temperature at which it decomposes to water and alumina. There's no need to take it to 1200 degrees.

Brad

BrownGirl

2011-09-30, 5:24pm

You won't need to heat it if you use aluminum oxide (AKA: alumina) instead of hydrated alumina. Same thing without the hydrate (water). It may be a little harder to find though. If you have a problem finding it, check with suppliers of grinding/polishing equipment. You'll probably want the finest grit/powder they have.

If you do want to heat hydrated alumina instead, you'll only need to get it to just above 400F, which is the temperature at which it decomposes to water and alumina. There's no need to take it to 1200 degrees.

Brad

How would I go about heating it in my kiln. My Regular guy is a great size but what kind of container wouldni put it in? Is it safe to hold the temp at 1200 degrees for long periods of time in it? Lastly what can I heat it up in? Maybe a Pyrex bowl? I am still working this recipe out. What will heating it do?

Sorry about all the questions.

Eileen

2011-09-30, 7:49pm

How about an old stainless bowl?

Firebrand Beads

2011-10-03, 9:22pm

I've been making something similar to what Kalera has been making, since....oh, 1991?? '92?? When there was no commercial release? Still prefer it. Never could get used to paying full price for a premix.

BrownGirl

2011-10-25, 1:54pm

I can't believe it. I have gone through some garbage and have dumped a bunch but.... I think this is working for me.

So far I can beat this bitch in the flame and it has yet to crack on me. It cannot be flame dried. After stuff comes outta he kiln, I can slip the beads off. However, 1/2 the time I have to use pliers to hold he mandrel and a damp paper towel for extra leverage. For me, that's okay, others might not like that. One other thing some people may not like is after I pop the beads off, I soak the madrels for a little bit and I have to use a scrubby to get the release cleaned off the madrel. It doesn't just slip off. Again, this does not bother me in the least but it might annoy others.

After I measure out the ingredients, I sift them them several times so there are no lumps before mixing in water. I like to run it through the blender after I have let it sit overnight. It's not necessary but, it works for me.

Well, I have 4 ziplocks with enough powdered release to fit in a 4 ounce glass jar. It leaves room for you to add your water and a few wonkies to act as mixers when you shake it up.

If you would like to try out a sample for $4 to cover shipping and materials, please send me a PM. I will send out a sample to the first five people that PM me with an email address for paypal invoicing.

Thanks!

Roshini

2013-11-07, 2:55am

I have been trying to make a good bead release based on the recipes posted here and have had no luck so far. I am now wondering if my ingredients are somehow wrong. I used kaolin light and aluminium oxide as opposed to kaolin clay and alumina hydrate since the folks I bought it from said they are the same. Also, while the kaolin is very powdery the aluminium oxide is more grainy, like fresh table salt perhaps.
To worsen matters the so called release is a little hard to remove from the mandrel and needs some sand papering.
Now I have all these ingredients and no bead release! Anyone out there who has any suggestions at all? Please help!