dougie pink...... everything but pink??

[suzanne]

I have tried over and over again but I can not get pinks out of dougie pink! I watched his dvd over and over again, and I am doing the exact same thing ( at least... I think I am) as he does.

I layer warm yellow over clear, and ruby strike 5 on top of that, twist and make beads but I don't get any pinks at all. All of my so called pink beads look a livery pale skin color.

Am I supposed to work this color really hot ( like DAP) or should I work it cool, do I flame strike or pop in the kiln imediatly?

I hope someone can help me in my quest for da pinks.

Thanks!Suzanne

[Juln]

Ruby 5 over warm yellow? I haven't seen the video, and I know nothing about 'Dougy' but I have always obtained pink by putting the silver color over the ruby color, not vice versa.

Also, Warm Yellow doesn't work for me - when I put it over ruby it strikes or reduces too much and I can't even see the ruby. My issues with warm yellow might have to do with that I am making 1/4 inch thick blown beads rather than solid mandrel beads, though.

Still, I recommend NS Yellow instead of Warm Yellow. It is much less saturated with silver. Try Northstar Yellow or Extra Light Yellow over Ruby/Rust/Jasper/Dark Orange/Exotic Red. I've always gotten really great results from that.

[Over the Moon]

Hi Suzanne! Yes, I agree with Juln...try the clear then ruby, then yellow...
That'll do it for ya!

[e. mort]

Yep, clear then ruby then yellow. And I also haven't had a lot of luck with the GA warm yellow either. At least my pinks don't look very "Dougie" to me. I get better pinks using either NS Yellow or NS Extra light Yellow. Makes me pretty crazy actually - that is trying to get the same colors he does on the video.

Eric

[suzanne]

Oh sorry, I said it the wrong way around, I layer ruby strike 5 over clear and then warm yellow on top of it. I'll try the regular yellow instead to see if that would work. Thanks so far, I;ll post the results later on

[Juln]

Warm Yellow I find more to be like 'Warm Tan' Or 'Purple' or sometimes 'Medium Non-Warm Blue'.

[rusticstudio]

In Brent's class he said that if you get the reds too hot, you'll get livery colors. Are you soaking and annealing at the temps recommended by Doug? Are you sure your kiln is accurate on the temperature? Is there a translation to Celsius issue? Are you encasing the beads in clear? I don't really know anything, just posing questions! :p

I did some beads from his DVD and they came out pretty good.
25595
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[Ellen Black]

Patty those are nice. I have heard that ruby varies alot. In Dougs class, he mentioned that the lighter clearer rods are better. Most of us dont' get to hand pick our colors thou.

And I have another question to add, when I work with boro, I put it into the kiln at 975 degrees. When I'm done making beads for the day, I bring the kiln up to strike, then start the annealing process. Anyone try that? I had pretty good results.

[suzanne]

THanks for all the input here, I always burn the bejeebers out of my ruby ( I heat it up so it turns all clear, encase and flame strike afterwards.)

I anneal them for 1.5 hours at 1075 , I;ll try the cool way and see what happends.

Btw Miss Rustic Studio... did ya have to rub it in:D:D, gorgeous beads!!

[rusticstudio]

Sorry... :p thanks... ;-) And thank, too, Ellen.

I didn't overheat the ruby. Just enough to melt it to encase the rod, then when I've made the rod, just enough to melt it to twist. He does say not to melt in the stripes before you are ready to make the twisty. Then when I'm making the bead, I just melt the twisty enough to make the disk then I don't melt it in until I've wrapped in it clear. When i'm shaping the bead, I do get it very hot/clear, then let cool a little and flame strike. Then pop it into the kiln at (I think) 1050 or 1100 and let it soak at least 4 hours before ramping down.

Again, I'm not an expert, just trying to follow Dougie's instrux. Hope you get it worked out cuz it's cool to see when you open the kiln!