how much propane consumption? [Archive]

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angie4680

2006-09-08, 5:17am

Solana

2006-09-08, 5:48am

Propane lasts a loooooooooooong time. I use the standard BBQ tanks you can find at any gas station or grocery store, and it lasts me 6 months...at least. I use a minor burner and torch anywhere between 6-10 hours a week.

Regarding oxygen...I'd invest in an oxygen concentrator (oxycon). That way you don't have to mess with dangerous, heavy oxy tanks and you don't have to purchase an oxygen regulator. You'll always have a oxygen since the concentrators take it right from the air! There are several people on here who sell oxycons, so check out the vendors area if you're interested.

Hope that helps!

Emily

2006-09-08, 9:18am

Here's a crucial question: are you working in a basement? If you are, and have access to natural gas, use ng. The reason is that propane is heavier than air, and if you have a leak, it will sink and pool at the lowest level. If you're working below ground and there's no place for it to escape, you have pool of gas with no place to go. Oops. (If you have a walk-out basement that can be vented at floor level, different story. Essentially it's not a below-ground installation.) Natural gas is not heavier than air, so it's safer to use in that situation. Otherwise, if you're tapped into your natural gas, you don't have to worry about running out of fuel, but propane tanks last a long time, so it really doesn't happen all that often. When it does happen, of course it happens at the most inconvenient time. Always. Murphy's Law rules, you know. I'm not sure I'd say 6 months for a barbecue-size tank, but 3 or 4 months, certainly. You can get two tanks and have a backup sitting around if you want. (Outside, of course.)

Oxygen is a whole different story. I'm a concentrator user, too -- currently running two 5 lpm concentrators on a (yay!) Lynx (thanks, Shawnette). If you're going to get tanked oxygen, you're going to want the largest tank you can handle, because oxygen goes fast. And yes, by the largest tank you can handle, I do mean the ones that are almost as tall as you are. Remember that although you can safely keep your oxy inside, the tank needs to be chained or bracketed to something solid so that it can't fall or be knocked over.

jokersdesign

2006-09-08, 9:29am

I'm still, like all beginners, wacking my head against the wall trying to make the right decision with torch and set up for large beads, pendants. Do I get the Lynx and run off propane, or get the betta and run off ng? How much propane should I be expected to go through? Same with O2. I think the Lynx is more versatile, but I'm afraid I'm going to buzz through tanks like crazy. Can anyone tell me how many hours you get out of yours? Or do you wish you were on ng? Thanks a ton!
Angie

I don't know about which gas to use as I've only used propane and like sirWatson said your propane will last you months.

Just speaking of the torches they are both great. I have them both. But if I could only have one torch between these two, I would get a Lynx.

But if your running them off concentrators then maybe the Betta would be better as it can run off lower pressures better.

If your going to be using tanked oxygen or liquid oxygen then the Lynx is the way to go. The Lynx is so much more versatile.

I just found a new flame last night playing with the Lynx on my Delta Mag and the flame is so hot I burn and bubble moretti even in the back part of the flame, or manybe that is just how moretti is, as I been using boro that last year and a half.

What I do to get this flame is light the Lynx and make a good reducing flame with little outter oxygen. Then I turn on the inner oxygen to get a netural flame. So I'm injecting about 50% green knob oxygen and 50% blue knob oxygen.

The flame is sharp, but soft and HOT.

angie4680

2006-09-08, 10:39am

Thanks guys! I was just going to use tanked oxy bc I can get it delivered and filled for $9. I don't think I'll be torching a whole lot, so I can't justify the 2 oxycons. And I read the colors are better with the tanked. I have a hubby that will do the backbreaking work, thank goodness. But I was leaning towards the basement instead of the garage. I can do either, but I'd be more comfortable in the basement, so thanks Emily on pointing out the propane sinking - I'd forgotten about that. Do you think the Betta is too small for pendants and bigger beads? Or will I even notice? Since it only has 5 or 6 ports I'm worried I might outgrow it sooner. I have no way of trying them out, either. So I guess if I'm basement bound, the betta is my best choice? Thanks so much!
Angie

kbinkster

2006-09-08, 10:57pm

Is your basement a basement basement or a walk-out basement? If it is a walk-out, you can use propane. If you will be using NG, and your pressure is 1/4 psi, then the Lynx might not be your best bet. It needs about 2 - 2.5 psi to run (fuel). You may be able to get the pressure boosted by your gas company. If not, you could also look into a Bobcat. The Bobcat (a seven jet standard torch) runs on household pressure NG.

Another thing to think about when deciding on a location for your studio is your ventilation set-up. Will you be able to exhaust the bad air (to the outside) and pull in fresh air (from at least 10' away from the exhaust)?

Will you have to transport tanks up and down stairs? My studio is in my walk-out basement. I use a concentrator for most things, but still have tanks down there. It is hard to get them up and down the stairs.

Where exactly is Windsor? We have a Bead Cluster that meets once a month in the Denver area. Often, our meetings are held at GlassCraft. Other times, they are held in membrs' homes. We usually have torches set up. Maybe if you come to one of our meetings, you could try out some different torches.

angie4680

2006-09-09, 9:04am

Yea my basement is a basement basement. I think it's easier to set up there bc I can get the two vents to work pretty easily, where as the garage, I'd have to go through the front of the brick house which I don't want. And I only have a window in there, no door, besides the garage doors. I'll check with the gas co about boosting up the psi - thanks. I really think the Lynx is what I want, but I'm not sure if it really matters that much. It's just a hobby! I hate when I can't make decisions - it really bugs me. Windsor is right outside Fort Collins. I was going to Glasscraft to get all my stuff. Maybe they can give me some insight too. Thanks for all the pointers - I really appreciate it!

Terryelemcee

2006-09-28, 1:29pm

[[/CENTER]image]43062[/image]43061

I am a very new beader having only been up and running for 2 months. My first tank of propane was 6ks and lasted only 6 weeks. I probably average about 20 hours a week and was really taken by surprise when the propane ran out so quickly. I swapped to a 13k tank, which sounds quite different when I turn it on. I have checked for leaks and it is OK. What I have noticed though, is that it seems to burn much hotter than the first tank. Is that possible? I hardly need to turn it on at the tank, and have to have the torch gas knob in a different position than before. Has anyone else noticed a difference to how their torches burn when changing tanks, or am I just a worrypot?
I have added a couple of pics of beads I have made, sorry, I thought the images were smaller.
Thanks for any helpful advice you can offer.

Terryelemcee

2006-09-28, 1:30pm

43062

This is the other pic. not sure where it went.

kbinkster

2006-09-28, 7:12pm

Are you using a HotHead or similar torch?

Lovely beads, btw.:)

Terryelemcee

2006-09-29, 3:16am

Hi, thank you for the reponse, to my query and beady pics.
I am using a Minor Burner, with oxycon.
I don't feel that my level of experience is up to a hot fast flame yet, so any advice would be most welcome.
regards
Terry

bhhco

2006-09-29, 5:38am

Terry... tell us a little more detail about your set-up.

What type of regulator do you use with the propane tank and what pressure setting?

Is the 6k and 13k propane tank weight (kilograms), the total weight or just the propane weight?

Me

Terryelemcee

2006-09-29, 7:01am

43146
Single Stage Propane Regulator
A single stage plugged propane regulator. This regulator is rated for 0-4 bar pressure so will handle all your beadmaking needs and is better qaulity than your imported regulators. British made this regulator conforms to BS EN ISO 2503

This is what the supplier says about the propane regulator, and I have included a picture.

I have a used oxygen concentrator made by Puritan Bennett which I usually run at a setting of about 4.

This is the procedure that I follow. This information was given to me by a fellow glassworker who has a similar setup.

1, switch on concentrator. It runs green the entire time. The only time it goes to amber is if I leave it too long to turn on the torch. Only did that once. I had been was advised to let it run for 5 mins before turning the torch on. I found that didn't work for me.
2, Open main valve on propane, probably only 1/8 of a turn (it makes a little woosh sound)
3,Open the pictured regulator a similar amount, it has no apparent level indicators on it.
4, Turn on propane valve on torch a little.
5, Ignite torch and adjust propane flame until it is approx 6-7 inches long.
6, Turn on oxygen valve on torch slowly until little black ball on concentrator hovers around the 4 mark on the indicator.
7, Adjust propane valve until the cones are quite sharp and measure about 3/8 of an inch.
This is how I did it with the previous tank of propane, but it seems to be neccesary to turn the propane down a bit more on the torch with this larger tank of propane.
The tank holds 13 kilos of gas, it is not the total weight of tank and gas.
I hope I haven't left any thing out, and I do appreciate your help and advice.
Thank you
Terry

bhhco

2006-09-29, 8:09am

Very good information.

The minor torch works quite well at 5 psi (even less) which is 0.34 bar. The 0-4 bar regulator provides (using 1 bar as a minimum) 14-58 psi. Without a gage is is difficult to know what the actual delivery pressure is. It will take careful regulator knob control to not send too much pressure to the torch (i.e., do not deliver more than 25 psi, or 1.7 bar). The torch valve will control the fuel flow (volume), but it is more difficult to do so at higher and higher regulator delivery pressures. So my first guess is the regulator is probably providing more than 10 psi (0.68 bar), possibly more than 25 psi (1.36 bar), making flame control (fuel volume) very sensitive, and fuel flow higher than necessary.

Now, I have to kind of work backwards... using the "4 mark" on your oxycon. At the 4 mark you are using 4 lpm, or 8 CFH. If I use the stoichiometric mix which is about 4:1, of Oxygen-Propane (for a perfectly neutral flame), then your fuel usage would be about 2 CFH. There is about 112 CF of fuel in a 6k tank. It would last...using it at a rate of 2 CF per hour... 56 hours. A minor burner could easily consume that amount of fuel per hour when run pretty wide open - which is where the 4 lpm on the oxycon comes in...

You appear to be establishing the flame based on the oxygen flow and then "matching" it (reverse neutralization, if you will) with fuel adjustment, versus establishing the flame based on fuel flow and neutralizing it with oxygen flow. If the oxycon is still reading 4 lpm while you work... and if you are working a neutral flame... then you are using about 2 CF of fuel per hour.

Still... I feel I'm missing something here. You have provided excellent and complete information - for some reason I feel I'm not completely grasping the problem... and I'm not providing the most important thing - a solution. Please, someone else take a shot at this too. If all of a sudden I go "got it!" I'll be back.

Me

update... The key here I think, will be first getting the fuel pressure and flow under proper control - the equivalent of 5 psi, or 0.34 bar fuel pressure. Without a gage on the regulator, or a preset "5 psi - 0.34 bar" regulator, that could be difficult.

Terryelemcee

2006-09-29, 1:02pm

bhhco

2006-09-29, 2:09pm

Thank you for the information. I have read it through very carefully a couple of times and have formed the following conclusion.
If I feel that the propane flow from this larger tank is stronger than the previous smaller tank, I should adjust the flow of oxygen to the propane in order to establish a neutral flame, rather than the other way around, even if it requires the oxygen flow to be less than the 4.5 that was recommended when I first got my setup.
If that is the case then my insticts have served me well, as since getting this new larger tank of propane I have found it more appropriate to work at a setting of approx 3 on the oxycon.
Can you please let me know if I have got the gist of the thing right, and if so that there is no harm done to continue as I am.
Terry

Yes you have it perfectly. And no harm will be done. Perhaps someone indicated that the oxycon should be set at 4.5 lpm. The answer to that is yes. Here's why...

The oxycon can flow no more volume (lpm) than you allow it to, by setting the flow control valve on the oxycon. When you set it at 3 lpm, it is "restricted" (it does not hurt it), but it cannot flow more than 3 lpm. If you set it at 4.5 then it can flow up to that amount. That does not mean you will always be flowing 4.5, and in fact you will probably only be using that much infrequently, for a specific task. Most of the time you will be actually be flowing less, for example 3 lpm, and the flow meter willl indicate less, e.g., 3 lpm. Once you set it on 4.5, you will be "adjusting" the flow from then on only at your torch oxygen valve - that's where you should be adjusting pxygen flow - not at the oxycon - the oxycon should be set at 4.5 one time and left there forever. It is normal for the flow meter on the oxycon to indicate higher and lower flow rates when the torch oxygen valve is adjusted while you work. How much gets through the torch (when the oxycon is set on 4.5) is controlled totally by the torch oxygen valve. The more open the torch oxygen valve is, the more will flow, and the higher the reading will be on the oxycon flow meter. The reverse is true. You were probably told to set it a 4.5 so that when you needed that much flow, the oxycon could deliver it. And that is correct.

.
My original question was to find out if in fact it is possible for the pressure to differ from one tank to another, or if I was just imagining things. Being a novice I naturally assumed that all tanks would be filled to give the same pressure in use, but on reflection, if that was the case regulators would hardly be necessary.
Thank you once again for your response, I appreciate the time you have spent on my behalf.

Terry

This has a quick asnswer but the really correct answer takes more time. "Generally" speaking the pressure in either tank would be exactly the same. But the really correct answer deals with how the pressure is created. Propane "boils" inside the tank from a liquid to a gas and fills the top part of the tank with gas - under pressure - the boiling creates the pressure. The propane boils because the metal tank is "hot". Hot is quite relative for propane... it begins to boil when the temperature is only as high as -44 F, and thus boils ambient temperatures. It is hot because the tank is "hot". That is, the tank is sittng in ambinet temperature... say 80 F, so the tanks metal skin is 80 F (approximately). To the propane... it is sitting inside a really hot pot and thus boils. Now... here's the really correct answer... if the two pots are different sizes or shapes, the amount of liquid propane in contact with the metal tank may be different, so the amount of "outside" heat that can delivered by conduction through the metal tank skin and into the liquid proane can differ. Usually, the larger the tank (more surface area), and the higher the level of liquid propane in the tank (a really full tank) the more heat will be transferred and thus the higher the pressure will be. I would guestimate (an estimate rightout of my head without doing the math), that the 6k tank only 1/4 full, compared to a 13k tank 3/4 full would have a pressure difference of about 25%. So if the pressure in the 6k tank example could be 8 bar (120 psi)... then the pressure in the 13k tank example might be 10 bar (150 psi) given a ambinet temperaure of say, 80 F.

The need for the regulator is partially, as you said, becasue the tnak pressure is never constant... it changes all the time, with the temperature. But, it is most important because it keeps the pressure exactly where you need it all the time, which is significantly less than 8-10 bar... more like 0.3 bar.

Which leads us to the conclusion... the desired approach is to have a regulator with a pressure gage that tells you how much it is set to actually deliver to the torch, e.g., 0.3 bar. Or, a preset regulator, without a gage, that is preset to only one single pressure, e.g., 0.3 bar. OR... and here I need a LE community comment on this - to be certian I have explained it correctly... the "back into the right fuel pressure procedure"...

Don't even want the oxycon on for this... close the torch fuel valve. Open the propane tank supply valve all the way open. Barely open the regulator. Mark or note the position of the torch fuel valve (later we will open the torch fuel valve one-half turn). Then light the torch.

What we are now going to try to do is set the adjustable fuel regulator at the "proper psi" using the sizre of the torch flame. Slowly open the torch fuel valve until it is one-half turn open (from fully closed). The torch flame should be about 16" long and the leaving the face of the torch about 1-2". If it starts to get longer than that, turn it back down and adjust the regulator down. If it can't get 16" long, then turn it down and adjust the regulator up a little bit. Through trial and error, you will finally get the regulator set so that when the torch fuel valve is 1/2 open, the flame will be 16" and it will be leaving the face of the torch about 1-2". That will be 5 psi, or 0.3 bar. Now you have a good psi setting on the regulator. Now you can set the oxycon at 4.5 and leave it there. Now you will be able to light the fuel and then add the oxygen (not the other way around).

It think you will be surprised how much more versatile the flame will be. Now you will be able easily control the flame size and oxygen flow and get good small or large, reducing or oxidizing flames.

Me

Terryelemcee

2006-09-29, 4:28pm

Oh gosh, thank you for all that information.
May I confirm your instructions.
Open propane tank valve fully.
Open propane regulator a little.
After marking fully off position on torch propane valve, open this valve 1/2 a turn.
Aim for a 16" flame (that worries me somewhat)
Adjust torch valve and or regulator until a 16" flame is possible.

Questions:

Having achieved optimal 16" flame do I then:
Always open propane valve on tank fully each time I use it.
Once I have found the correct position for the propane regulator
do I leave it open at all times, or find a way to mark the setting required and turn off after each use.
Is a 16" flame the norm? Every thing I have read indicates a 6-7" flame.
(Please don't think I am doubting you, just trying to get confirmation of your indications.)
Does the bigger flame use up the gas much faster.
When you say leaving the face, does this mean a gap between torch face and start of flame of one - two inches, or half an inch.
Does the 16" flame include this gap.

I am a little confused about what you mean in regard to the oxycon setting. My understanding is that there is an internal setting which remains constant, but the flow indicator on the front of the oxycon has a little black ball that rises as I open the oxy valve on the torch. When I want a reducing flame I close this valve (silver knob) as necessary and then return to a neutral flame by reopening the torch oxy valve. The black ball indicator rises and falls accordingly. Sorry if I sound over cautious, but I want to be absolutely sure of my facts and work as safely as I can.

Thanks again for your help, I hope you wont mind just confirming the above for me, so that my endeavours are not based on my misinterpretation of your instructions.

Thanks again

Terry:smile:

bhhco

2006-09-29, 7:54pm

Oh gosh, thank you for all that information.
May I confirm your instructions.
Open propane tank valve fully.
Open propane regulator a little.
After marking fully off position on torch propane valve, open this valve

JUST A LITTLE, AND LIGHT THE FLAME , THEN SEE IF YOU CAN OPEN THE VALVE FURTHER - UP TO 1/2 TURN AND THE FLAME GETS 16" LONG. IF THERE IS TOO MUCH PRESSURE THE FLAME WILL REACH OUT TO 16" WAY BEFORE YOU GET THE VALVE 1/2 TURN - WHICH IS WHAT I SUSPECT... YOUR PRESSURE MAY BE WAY TOO HIGH - BUT SINCE WE ONLY OPENED THE REGULATOR A LITTLE BIT, THEN IT MIGHT NOT REACH OUT TO 16" - WHICH MEANS THE PRESSURE IS NOW TOO LOW.

PS - I'M WRITING IN CAPS NOT TO BE SHOUTING - ONLY TO SET THIS INFO APART FROM YOUR POST 1/2 a turn.

Aim for a 16" flame (that worries me somewhat)

YOU AR AIMING FOR A 16" ONLY TO FIND OUT IF THE PRESSURE IS SET RIGHT -- YOU WILL NOT OPERATE AT 16" - YOU WILL OPERATE A 6-8" FLAME BECASUE YOU WILL TURN THE TORCH VALVE BACK DOWN - THE 16" IS ONLY TO TRY TO GET THE PRESSURE SET RIGHT SINCE THERE IS NO GAGE.

Adjust torch valve and or regulator until a 16" flame is possible.

YES. ONCE AGAIN... THIS IS ONLY TO GET THE REGULATOR SET AT THE PROPER PRESSURE... YOU WILL NOT EVER TURN THE VALVE UP THAT HIGH AGAIN DURING ACTUAL LAMPWORK.

Questions:

Having achieved optimal 16" flame do I then:

Always open propane valve on tank fully each time I use it.
YES. THE VALVE SHOULD ALWAYS BE FULLY OPENED.

Once I have found the correct position for the propane regulator
do I leave it open at all times, or find a way to mark the setting required and turn off after each use.

I WOULD SAY THAT MOST PEOPLE JUST SET IT AND FORGET IT. HOWEVER, THERE ARE OTHERS WHO ALWAYS CLSOE IT AFTER EACH LAMPWORK SESSION - THEY BELIVE TI WILL MAKE THE REGULATOR LAST LONGER. HONESTLY I DON'T KNOW - I SET MY ONCE AND LEAVE IT AND NEVER HAD A PROBLEM... BUT I COULD JUST BE LUCKY. MARKING IT WITH A PERMANENT MARKER WOULD WORK TOO SO YOU FIND THE RESET POINT.

Is a 16" flame the norm? Every thing I have read indicates a 6-7" flame.
CORRECT 6-8" FLAME, NOT 16". 16" IS ONLY A WAY TO GET A UNGAGED PRESSURE REGUGLATOR SET - NO ONE USES A 16" FLAME WITH A MINOR.

(Please don't think I am doubting you, just trying to get confirmation of your indications.) NO PROBLEM... THIS IS COMPLEX AND SOMETIMES I TEND TO THE TECHINCAL... AND SOMETIMES I EVEN MAKE MISTAKES. I AM HAPPY YOU ASKED, BECAUSE I DID NOT MAKE IT CLEAR ENOUGH AND I'D HATE TO FINDOUT LATER MY WORDS LED YOU TO OPERATE WITH A 16" FLAME:grin:

Does the bigger flame use up the gas much faster.
BIGGER THE FLAME, MORE GAS IS USED.

When you say leaving the face, does this mean a gap between torch face and start of flame of one - two inches, or half an inch.
YES THAT GAP... IT WILL LOOK LIKE THE FLAME IS OUT IN FRONT OF THE TORCH. THE GAP WILL BE ABOUT 1" TO 2" GAP.

Does the 16" flame include this gap.
YES... AND THE 16" IS "ABOUT" 16" GIVE OR TAKE 1" - DONT' BURN YOURSELF TRYING TO MEASURE IT EXACT - JUST "EYEBALL IT" - LOOK AT IT - IF IT LOOKS 16" - THAT'S IT.
Terry:smile:

I am a little confused about what you mean in regard to the oxycon setting. My understanding is that there is an internal setting which remains constant, but the flow indicator on the front of the oxycon has a little black ball that rises as I open the oxy valve on the torch. When I want a reducing flame I close this valve (silver knob) as necessary and then return to a neutral flame by reopening the torch oxy valve. The black ball indicator rises and falls accordingly. Sorry if I sound over cautious, but I want to be absolutely sure of my facts and work as safely as I can.

Thanks again for your help, I hope you wont mind just confirming the above for me, so that my endeavours are not based on my misinterpretation of your instructions.

Thanks again

Terry:smile:

I'll answer the last question about oxycon with a normal post. The first dealt with fire so I wanted get all that in caps inthe right sequence.

RE: Oxycon. You are correct, the little ball will go up and down as you adjust the oxygen valve silver knob on the minor. The more the valve is open, the higher the ball will rise and vice-versa. But there is more..

For this, we can consider the internal setting "fixed" for our purpose. Lets say for example, that it is fixed at 5 lpm and 5 psi. That it is producing that amount internally. Now, it needs to get out... to the torch. It flows, physically, from inside the oxycon, through a valve controlled by a black knob on the oxycon, then through the flow meter that has the little black ball (that's what is pushing the ball up), and then through the outlet you connect your oxygen hose to. The knob on the oxycon controls how much of the fixed internal flow is allowed to go through the flow meter and out the outlet connector. When the hose is not attached to the outlet (or if the torch oxygen valve is fully open), the knob can be adjusted -- it is a valve actually, and it can restrict some or all of what is internally fixed from getting out. Thus, you can control how much can actually get out of the oxycon with the knob. If you turn the knob and set the flow (ball) at 3 lpm, then only up to 3 lpm can ever get out. If you set it at 4.5 lpm, then up to 4.5 lpm can get out.

Now, lets say the hose was not attached to the oxycon, and you turn ithe oxycon on, and you turn the knob and set the flow so the ball is at 4.5 lpm. Good. Now you hook the oxygen hose up to the oxycon (the other end of the hose is attached to the torch). If the torch valve is close, the ball will drop to zero - because there is now ANOTHER valve limiting the output from the oxycon - the torch oxygen valve. If you open the torch valve, the ball will rise - it will allow the oxycon's internal oxygen to get out through the torch. However, the flow can never rise any higher than where the knob/valve on the oxycon was set... you can never get more than what that knob setting limited the oxycon to; but the torch oxygen valve can make it less. If you set the oxycon at 4.5 lpm (without a hose attached to it) then you will always have up to 4.5 lpm aviailabe. How much of it you actually use will be controlled by the torch oxygen valve - as it should be.

There's a whole other story about purity vs flow rate... but that's not important now... and I suspect has little effect on a minor burner's performace when makeing soft glass beads.

I typed this really fast and did not proof read it... so if I said something confusing (which I'm prone to do) just let me know.

Me

Terryelemcee

2006-09-30, 7:21am

I feel a little strange calling you Me as I am unsure if it is your name (sorry), but I really appreciate all your help.
I feel that I now have a much better understanding of just what is going on, and consequently can work in the 'light' as it were.
I have set every thing up as per your indications and will let you know how I get on after a few hours experience of the new settings.
I already feel much more confident thanks to your very precise and patiently presented explanations.
How can I thank you, it is going to make such a difference to my development as a glass beadmaker.
Huge thanks for the time and effort you have dedicated to helping me.
Hugs
Terry

bhhco

2006-09-30, 7:43am

You are welcome.

I use "Me" because my real name is so common that it would lead to confusion with other posters.

PM me how it all goes!

Me

Terryelemcee

2006-10-19, 5:36pm

Hi Me,
Sorry for the delay in getting back to you after you were so helpful.
Haven't done as much as I would like, having complications trying to get replacement spectacles, so am unable to sit at my torch for long.

HOWEVER, discovery of major importance was made thanks to your very explicit instructions.
Guess what? My propane regulator was supplied in the fully on position.
I had no clue, and was turning it just a little bit OFF, not a little bit ON as I thought.
No wonder I was using the propane up so quickly.
The knob of the regulator was very stiff, and I was turning it in the same direction as the tank valve,(I think I read that somewhere) all the time thinking I was doing it correctly.
It's only because of your instructions about adjusting pressure by torch valve position and propane flame size that I discovered the problem. When I did as you suggested, my flame was too huge, too big to have the torch valve open half way as you indicated.
I felt both silly, and enormously relieved at the same time when I realised what was what. I just assumed the regulator would be supplied in the fully closed position.
Just proves that you 'don't know' what you 'don't know'
Anyway, as you said, I would be pleasantly surprised by the extra control having the propane pressure correctly adjusted would give me, and you were right. I have even had some progress with stringer application, but much PPP still needed. I have read about a pinpoint flame making it easier, but not quite sure how to get that yet, or what it should look like. Have also heard it can damage the torch so a bit confused by that one.

Anyway, many, many thanks for all your help, it was just wonderful, and sorry to be late getting back to you.

grateful regards

Terry

bhhco

2006-10-19, 7:19pm

You are very welcome. I'm happy it's all worked out for you.

And thank you for letting us all know the outcome. Your information is very helpful for others who may experience the same problem.

Cheerio!

Me