Newbie with Chili Pepper problem

[CraftyRobin]

Hi,

I just got a new Chili Pepper with an Orton controller. I ran my first small batch anneal, the other night, which went fine. I used some of my ugly beads for that.

Yesterday, I put in the rest of my beads, the nicer ones, and tried to batch anneal them. In the middle of the 1-1/2 hour time at 960 degrees, the FE 5 message came on (software execution failed), and the temperature had dropped into the high 700's before I figured out how to reprogram it to resume where it had left off.

It started up again okay, but sometime during the night, the FE 5 happened again.

So are my beads ruined? None of them cracked/broke, but have they really been annealed?

Also, what is wrong with my kiln? Is this common for the Orton? The first time, I put in my settings on Program 1, and the second time, I used that same program and settings.

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated!

[smiles4u]

Hi Robin,
I bought a Chili pepper about 8 months ago and had the same problem. Contact whoever you bought the kiln from and explain the problem...they may even put you into contact with Orton who are extremely helpful. My controller needed to be replaced and I haven't had a problem since. I, personally would not trust the beads as they were not held long enough at 960 and dropped rapidly to 700 instead of being slowly cooled.
Hope this helps,
Christy

[CraftyRobin]

Thanks, Christy!
I have e-mailed the seller of the kiln, and am waiting to hear back. I will contact Orton directly if necessary. If they replace the controller, do you have to send the whole kiln back, or just the controller?

Yeah, that's what I feared about the beads. Oh, well, I'll just use them myself and hope for the best!

I appreciate your help!

Robin

[hotfire210]

Thanks, Christy!
.... If they replace the controller, do you have to send the whole kiln back, or just the controller?...

Robin

The controller comes off of the kiln. If it's the panel on the controller, usually you just take it off and send it in after talking to Mike or Randy at Jen-Ken (manufacturer), and then Jen-Ken or Orton either sends it back repaired or a new one. If it's an issue inside the controller box or the programming, Mike or Randy from Jen-Ken can usually talk you through it on the phone. I've never had to send anything to Jen-Ken. They've always sent the parts to me and talked me through the replacement over the phone.

[smiles4u]

The controller comes off of the kiln. If it's the panel on the controller, usually you just take it off and send it in after talking to Mike or Randy at Jen-Ken (manufacturer), and then Jen-Ken or Orton either sends it back repaired or a new one. If it's an issue inside the controller box or the programming, Mike or Randy from Jen-Ken can usually talk you through it on the phone. I've never had to send anything to Jen-Ken. They've always sent the parts to me and talked me through the replacement over the phone.

Same here. The controller comes off very easily and Mike or Randy at Jen-Ken are great and will talk you through the change. I sent the faulty one back to them. Never had a problem since and I use my kiln nearly every day!
Christy

[CraftyRobin]

Oh, thanks for the info!

I called Jen-Ken and was referred to Orton because they said it's the controller, they had a batch that have all been having the same problem. I'm waiting to hear back from Jim Baldwin at Orton now.

Appreciate the help!

[bhhco]

Thanks, Christy!
I have e-mailed the seller of the kiln, and am waiting to hear back. I will contact Orton directly if necessary. If they replace the controller, do you have to send the whole kiln back, or just the controller?

Yeah, that's what I feared about the beads. Oh, well, I'll just use them myself and hope for the best!

I appreciate your help!

Robin

When your kiln's working right again, run your beads through the annealing again.

If the beads did not develop invisible cracks from the error rapid rampdown, then they will anneal and they will be good to go. If they did develop invisible cracks from the error rapid rampdown, then they will pop during the second annealing.

For now... avoid stressing them before your can run them through annealing again. I.E., No rapid temperature changes (like inside 70 F... then going outside into freezing cold), or compressive changes (like squeezing, dropping, or bouncing them together).

Me

ADDED: If this is the problem I think it is, you will be asked to move a 'jumper' on the control board. You might prepare for this be taking the 4 screws out that hold the face plate (push button part) on the metal control box. Be sure your unplugged before you take the screws out.

[CraftyRobin]

Thanks for the information on re-annealing -- I was wondering about that! I plan to try that tonight.

I got a new control panel from Orton, and swapped out the old one. The kiln seems to run okay now -- YAY!

Can anyone suggest a good cooling schedule after bringing the temp. down to 850 degrees for 10 minutes? Something that won't make the program run too long and just shut off? Or is it okay to just let it shut off after the 850 degree hold time is done?

Thanks, everybody, for your help!

[squid]

I would go at least down to 700 which is about the strain point - and if your kiln is outside in the cold (garage, etc), and since it is a fiber kiln, I would go at 200 dph to 500 and then shut off.

I had the exact same fe5 problem with my controller too and am waiting on a new one now. Nice to see it fixed your problem.

[CraftyRobin]

Thanks for the suggestion on the cooling schedule -- I'll give it a whirl. (My kiln is in my kitchen.)

The folks at Orton were very nice, and the new control panel was pretty easy to install. I unhooked one connection at a time and hooked it on the new one. Good luck with yours!