Have you used the Bead Liner by Retro Glass Tools?

[AmySimsDesigns]

I am curious about it. Anyone have it? How does it work? What size tubing do you have to buy for it and what size mandrels do you have to make your beads on?

[Gail Joseph]

Well, I was next to their booth at Best Bead, and bought one, but haven't bought tubing yet. They give you info on which tubing works for which mandrel sizes. Off the top of my head, I think you can use all the "normal" sizes, but I thought it looked better as they got bigger. I'll probably use it mainly with 1/8th, 1/4" 3/8" and 1/2", and probably with 3/32". I doubt I'd use it with 1/16th. The kit comes with the smaller sizes, and the larger ones extra.

The owners are REALLY nice, and I'm sure they'd happily answer any questions. I really think they would have sold any tubing, had they brought it. I know it would have been a big investment, but I'm all for one-stop-shopping!!!-Gail

p.s. It looks like it is really easy to work. You cut the tubing 1mm longer than bead on both sides (i.e. 2mm longer than hole), place into holder with correctly sized fittings (tube is in bead at this point). While holding the bead, and making sure it stays loose, you slowly turn the wheel which flares the tubing at each end. Ta-da

[ltsexpressions]

OT post I know, but DANG WOMAN, I heard you played w/my dearest friends Nori and Jerry!!! :waving:

I told them I wanted to get in the suitcase dang it!!! :-({|=

Nori's stash o'frit looked sweet too. She came over and played some w/it on Saturday. :koolaid:

Maybe they will let me in the suitcase next time. [-o<

Stacy



Well, I was next to their booth at Best Bead, and bought one, but haven't bought tubing yet. They give you info on which tubing works for which mandrel sizes. Off the top of my head, I think you can use all the "normal" sizes, but I thought it looked better as they got bigger. I'll probably use it mainly with 1/8th, 1/4" 3/8" and 1/2", and probably with 3/32". I doubt I'd use it with 1/16th. The kit comes with the smaller sizes, and the larger ones extra.

The owners are REALLY nice, and I'm sure they'd happily answer any questions. I really think they would have sold any tubing, had they brought it. I know it would have been a big investment, but I'm all for one-stop-shopping!!!-Gail

p.s. It looks like it is really easy to work. You cut the tubing 1mm longer than bead on both sides (i.e. 2mm longer than hole), place into holder with correctly sized fittings (tube is in bead at this point). While holding the bead, and making sure it stays loose, you slowly turn the wheel which flares the tubing at each end. Ta-da

[Karen Hardy]

I so desperately want to get one of these toys I can taste it.
A bit too expensive for my blood - I'm hoping it will come
down in price.

But if not, who knows, I may have to take up topless dancing
and save my tips to buy one anyway.

[CorriDawn]

It is a wonderful tool.

[Heart Fire]

I've been curious a about this tool as well, I have been using dapping punches etc to do my silver core beads.

Does anyone have any pictures (close-up) of bgeads they have lined or capped?

TY, Lois

[ltsexpressions]

I've been curious a about this tool as well, I have been using dapping punches etc to do my silver core beads.

Does anyone have any pictures (close-up) of bgeads they have lined or capped?

TY, Lois

Lois,

I think they may have some on the site. If those aren't close enough, let me know. I'll try to take a pic of one of mine that I've cored! The bead capper tool (that makes the caps themselves) is da' bomb all on it's own to make simple elegant sterling beadcaps!!!

I'd have more of mine silverlined and capped, but work has gotten in the way of ordering silver tubing and getting stuff DONE lately...

Stacy

[Heart Fire]

Lois,

I think they may have some on the site. If those aren't close enough, let me know. I'll try to take a pic of one of mine that I've cored! The bead capper tool (that makes the caps themselves) is da' bomb all on it's own to make simple elegant sterling beadcaps!!!

I'd have more of mine silverlined and capped, but work has gotten in the way of ordering silver tubing and getting stuff DONE lately...

Stacy
I have seen the beads on their website but they are too far away to really see---at least for me.

I would love to see a close-up photo, I have been very interested but really wanted to try the tool before I invest that much money. I cut my tubing with a jewelers saw, then anneal it with my Smith Little torch, pickle it and then insert it into the bead. Then I do the polishing.

It would be nice to have 100% success which I don't have yet due to small cracks that sometimes occur on the sides of the beads.

I do 1/2 inch, 3/8, and 1/4 inch.

would love to see close-ups. TY, Lois

[maddog1050]

I have this tool and although I haven't used it a great deal - my jewelry designs lately don't lend themselves to lined beads - it's pretty easy to use. I like that it eliminates the hammering needed for the manual tubing process. I'm less likely to crack a bead. I like this tool and plan to buy the optional larger dies.

[Beadfairy]

Hi Amy,

I had this beadliner till I got the first beadliner from Lise Aagaard. The beads at the pictures were lined with the retroglass tool - I think it's a nice tool and its easy to use. I especially liked that you can change the diameter for different silver tubes. But I like the Aagard liner much more, thats why I sold the retroglass tool again.

58555

58554

58553

Have a nice day!
Karin

[sburwash]

Hi Karin - what are the differences between this beadliner and Lise Aagaard's version? And is hers still in production? Thanks in advance.

susan

[ltsexpressions]

Aagaard's is no longer in production as far as we heard. You also had to get the tubing from her to use in it.

Retro's was designed to NOT have proprietary tubing so you could buy tubing from YOUR favorite supplier (at whatever prices you could finagle!) and not be dependant on Retro for the tubing.

It was also designed to use various sizes of tubing and be able to be adaptable in the future. It comes with a variety of sizes of collets/dies to start with and they will work with you on creating the tool to fit your needs also! (Just don't tell Jerry I said that!!! LOL)

[Teague]

I desparately want this tool to be able to work with a disk of silver so you could rivet a cap on either side.


Teague

[Beadfairy]

Susan,

Stacy is right with the production of the Aagard beadliner - but I can also buy my silver tube here and cut it myself.
I got it on ebay a few weeks before. Only the 3mm tubes are fitting in there - thats the disadvantage.
The retroglass tool is great - it works fine - so if you're a tool junkie as me too, you will like it ;-)

Karin

[playswithfire104]

Great. Another thing to put on the "I gotta get this list".

[ltsexpressions]

I desparately want this tool to be able to work with a disk of silver so you could rivet a cap on either side.


Teague

Teague,

I (and several others!) am working on them to get this done! They are working on it. It will still be a 2-3 step process, as you would have to either make your caps with the capper or buy caps, then put all in the liner and finish off. Still that's easier than the "original"

[ltsexpressions]

Susan,

Stacy is right with the production of the Aagard beadliner - but I can also buy my silver tube here and cut it myself.
I got it on ebay a few weeks before. Only the 3mm tubes are fitting in there - thats the disadvantage.
The retroglass tool is great - it works fine - so if you're a tool junkie as me too, you will like it ;-)

Karin

Karin,

Being in Germany, I bet you are getting the tubing the same place she was getting it. Too bad there aren't same products here in US as in EU...

As a fellow tool junkie I like all tools!!!

Stacy

[AmySimsDesigns]

So, for those of you who have the beadliner and use it-where do you buy your tubing? I tried to buy some from Rio (to silver core by hand) and ended up with really thick walled stuff that I can't use. If you do the 1/4" tubing, what size mandrel do you make your beads on?

And did anyone else see the post on silver bead liners that come in two parts and you glue them into the beads?

[maddog1050]

I get my tubing from Metalliferous in New York. They have lots of different sizes and I also get copper and brass tubing from them.

[ltsexpressions]

oooooooo, nummy! I'd love to see a bead lined in the copper tubing!

I need to look up Metalliferous and get some of that. I have some kewl ideas about using it.

Stacy

I get my tubing from Metalliferous in New York. They have lots of different sizes and I also get copper and brass tubing from them.

[sburwash]

Aagaard's is no longer in production as far as we heard. You also had to get the tubing from her to use in it.

Retro's was designed to NOT have proprietary tubing so you could buy tubing from YOUR favorite supplier (at whatever prices you could finagle!) and not be dependant on Retro for the tubing.

It was also designed to use various sizes of tubing and be able to be adaptable in the future. It comes with a variety of sizes of collets/dies to start with and they will work with you on creating the tool to fit your needs also! (Just don't tell Jerry I said that!!! LOL)

Thanks (and good to know about Jerry being approachable :-) ). I had thought I'd remembered that the Aagaard tool was not as flexible in terms of using different diameter tubing.

[frantzglass]

I bought 3 of their tools in Kansas, one for myself, I sold one and then decided that we were not going to carry them. Nothing wrong with the product, but it is expensive and our inventory is too large. So I got a new one for sale and will let it go for $250. If interested call Frantz, but tell them Mike has one, not in the catalog and not even in the computer.

Mike

[glass_affair]

Hi, I am very interested... called and left a message for you!

Sue

[sburwash]

Susan,

Stacy is right with the production of the Aagard beadliner - but I can also buy my silver tube here and cut it myself.
I got it on ebay a few weeks before. Only the 3mm tubes are fitting in there - thats the disadvantage.
The retroglass tool is great - it works fine - so if you're a tool junkie as me too, you will like it ;-)

Karin

I am definitely a tool junkie - I think this might be the next thing on my list LOL

[CO_Phantom]

So...the only thing I would need to do bead caps with this is the disc cutter to punch the discs (provided I didn't purchase them pre cut)? And to do riveted beads I just need the tubing?

No daps or punches?

[CorriDawn]

So...the only thing I would need to do bead caps with this is the disc cutter to punch the discs (provided I didn't purchase them pre cut)? And to do riveted beads I just need the tubing?

No daps or punches?

correct

[CO_Phantom]

Wow...

Now I really want one!

This forum is going to cost me an arm and a leg! 8-[

Hee. More fun for me.

-
Amy

[ElaineRusk]

I purchased the Retro liner tool at the Gathering. I have just tried one bead........and cracked it. I think I got it to tight. I was wondering if I need to anneal and quench the silver tube to make it softer. If I do could anyone give me directions?
Elaine

[Heart Fire]

Hi Elaine, I don't use the Retro Glass Tools but I do make silver core beads. Annealling the silver will make a big difference because it makes the tubing much softer and therefore more pliable. To anneal the cut tubing you will need an annealing pan with pumice, a jewelers torch, and a pickling pot. I have the Smith Little Torch that came with 6 different tips but I had to purchase the 'rosebud' tip which is for the annealing process. After the tube has been cut and the edges filed you place it in the annealing pan and light the torch. Keep the torch rotating and moving all the time that it is directly going towards the silver. When the silver turns a deep red stop immediately, turn off the torch and with a pair of copper tongs place it into plain water, this will soften the silver, then you place the silver in the pickling compound that has been warmed in a small crock pot. When the silver turns almost white it is ready to be worked.

Annealing the silver will make a huge difference.

Hope this helps, Lois

[ElaineRusk]

Thanks Lois for the directions. I will be getting a torch from Franz in the mail today. I am anxious to see if it comes with different tips. The least amount of silver tube I waste learning how to do this the better! Thank you again.
Elaine

[Heart Fire]

You are welcome Elaine. In case you don't know (you probably already do) save your scrap silver until you have a stash, then you can send it in and get cash for the scrap. I have broken a number of beads, but keep the wasted tubing to send in later.

Have fun!

Lois

[bob]

hi
this question is for heart fire,I was wondering why you use the pickling compound when working with silver core. I saw a video were they heated the tubbing with a torch and cooled in water. what does the pickling compound do.
thanks
b proulx

[danelady]

Read back to post 29, she explained it nicely!hi
this question is for heart fire,I was wondering why you use the pickling compound when working with silver core. I saw a video were they heated the tubbing with a torch and cooled in water. what does the pickling compound do.
thanks
b proulx

[Heart Fire]

hi
this question is for heart fire,I was wondering why you use the pickling compound when working with silver core. I saw a video were they heated the tubbing with a torch and cooled in water. what does the pickling compound do.
thanks
b proulx

After annealing the tubing it is basically almost black from the fire, the heated pickle which is an acid, turns the tubing almost white and therefore all the scaling etc. is gone. Any time silver is annealed it should be pickled---at least that is how I was taught. Hope this helps.

Lois

[bob]

hi heart fire
being new to beading I am always learning something new. I appreciate this forum and people like you who take the time to help out others.
thanks again
b proulx

[SadiesJewels]

Strictly speaking the silver doesn't need to be pickled every time it's annealed ... to save time I sometimes work the silver more before pickling. However, if you want to solder on it it needs to be pickled - solder will not flow if the surface is unclean.