Problems with cracking encased Rubino

[SassyCassie]

I have had about 60% of my encased rubino beads crack lately. This is a new batch of rubino that I got....maybe 6 weeks ago or so..it is struck...but a ruddy kind of maroon..strikes nice and pink though.

I thought at first it was me...I was admiring the bead too long...worked on it too long...caused a thermal crack..but I'm beginning to think it's a compatability crack. It's on one side and looks "fractured" ...not a clean line in all cases.

Is there another glass that could have been mixed up at my suppliers with rubino?

Thanks guys

Cass-with-no-tiny-head-yet

[dogmaw]

That is an interesting problem. What kind of clear are you using? I'm not familiar with other kinds of pink (pink is icky) but I may be able to help with the clear. You are right, it doesn't sound like a heat fracture. Maybe you could post a pict?

[SassyCassie]

I wasn't encasing in clear...but a lavender. I know about the Lauscha problems...but I was lucky my batch wasn't one of the cracking batches. I tried all sorts of combinations...and came to the conclusion it has to be the rubino.

I'll try to take a pic tomorrow outside...my indoor set up is NOT picking up the cracks.

Thanks!

Cass

[GemFOX]

I've had the same problem when doing white-heart encased rubino spacers. However, I had better luck this way - start out with a larger white core, encase that with rubino pulled into a thick stringer, then lightly encase with clear.

Also had problems with other Lauscha clear-encased beads cracking...looking for threads on that..I'm thinking about chucking that expensive glass, despite how beautifully clear and anti-scum it is. : (

[Moth]

Color the bead with a black marker, then wipe off the marker, then take the picture. The black ink will run into the cracks and they will show up for the camera.

[Rebekah]

I used to have problems with the rubino cased in clear. Started doing the white core and didn't have any problems after that. Love, love, love rubino. Never use it anymore, though. I hate finicky colors. Not enough patience.

Rebekah

[Cosmo]

I have had good luck encasing rubino (and all other colors) with Lauscha. Someone once told me to put them into the kiln a lot warmer than you do with other soft glass. I make sure my Lauscha has a nice dull orange glow before I put it into the kiln. I haven't had one crack on me in over a year.

[dogmaw]

Did you ever get picts of the cracks for us?

[Heidi von Frozenfyre]

Just to letcha know... (Effetre has never told anyone this) Rubino has a c.o.e. that is higher than 104. I can't remember what it is exactly because it's been so many years ago. It might be 112... but don't quote me on it.

When I was devoloping some of the Czech colors back in the 90's I went thru this over and over again with incompatibility fractures. We did a compatibility test with some of Effetre's popular colors. This is one of them. The higher the c.o.e. the brighter the color will be. Rubino is made with gold - and that will cause the c.o.e. to be higher. Gold and Lead do not mix chemically. Infact lead is the only known substance that will eat gold. Any soft glass had *some* lead in it. Just that you are not required to report the 5 unless it's over 40%. Without lead it would be boro/pyrex

To use rubino or other higher c.o.e. colors as the core of the bead, first make a thin core of clear, then the higher c.o.e. color, thendesign as usual. Keep it under 15%.

Hope it helps, if not PM me and maybe I can go thru my notes.