Where can I find an M-20 concentrator?

[Cat]

Who sells these? I can't find them on any of the known sites. Thanks. :)

[BarbR]

Apparently there's M5, M10 and M15 - but I don't see M20. I vaguely remember them having an M20 model....maybe it's been discontinued.

Try here:
http://www.unlimitedoxygen.com/

[pearsonglass]

If I remember correctly, the Tornado is the same output specs as the old M20. They just discontinued it and only make the tornado. I do not know who retails them.

Brad Pearson

[FosterFire]

ABR sells them. Just Goggle ABR Imagery and it will come up.

[Hollowbead]

I have an M20 and love it - I believe it is call at Python ( or Tornado) They had this listed - but no shown - at the Las Vegas Bead Expo - so I do think they are still around. ( I got mine from Mountain Art Glass but they no longer sell it - ABR did have it then also don't know about now.)

[Mr. Smiley]

The M-20 got dialed back and is now the M-15... it's 15 PSI instead of 20 PSI and 8LPM instead of 10LPM. I can get them for you as well. PM me for a price quote. ;)

[Cat]

Thanks for the info - I was looking to compare it to the Hurricane and Tornado. Guess that answers my questions. :)

[65Starfire]

Are the M-10,15,20 still being made or sold by anyone. They were a Respironics Millenium concentrator. I was wondering if they have went by the wayside yet. I see the output flowrates and pressure specifications have been scaled back to a lesser output than what was claimed in earlier specs.

[jokersdesign]

So what is the verdict on unlimited oxygen oxygen concentrator?

I have been really wanting to get a unit to power mid ti larger torches, but I'm don't want to spend the money if the units are in question.

[jokersdesign]

here is the distributors listed

http://www.unlimitedoxygen.com/distributors.htm

[kbinkster]

Are the M-10,15,20 still being made or sold by anyone. They were a Respironics Millenium concentrator. I was wondering if they have went by the wayside yet. I see the output flowrates and pressure specifications have been scaled back to a lesser output than what was claimed in earlier specs.

Those units are/were modified Respironics units.

The M-10 (aka P-10) is the modified Respironics 5 LPM concentrator. UO has tweaked it to put out 5 LPM at 10 psi. The original Respironics unit only put out somewhere around 5.25 psi.

When you look at the specs from Respironics for their units, there is a pressure number listed that is a really high pressure. It's a little misleading because that pressure is not the oxygen output pressure (what would be going to an oxygen patient or a torch in our case). I don't know whether it is the pressure of the exhaust or the pressure of the air compressor, I didn't ask Respironics, but it is not the product output pressure. They told me that pressure was around 5.25.

The M-20 (aka P-20) was the modified Respironics 10 LPM concentrator. UO modified it to put out 10 LPM at 20 psi. There were some purity issues at that output, so UO dialed it down to 8 LPM at 15 psi and now it is called the M-15 or the 1508.

[jokersdesign]

Those units are/were modified Respironics units.

The M-10 (aka P-10) is the modified Respironics 5 LPM concentrator. UO has tweaked it to put out 5 LPM at 10 psi. The original Respironics unit only put out somewhere around 5.25 psi.

When you look at the specs from Respironics for their units, there is a pressure number listed that is a really high pressure. It's a little misleading because that pressure is not the oxygen output pressure (what would be going to an oxygen patient or a torch in our case). I don't know whether it is the pressure of the exhaust or the pressure of the air compressor, I didn't ask Respironics, but it is not the product output pressure. They told me that pressure was around 5.25.

The M-20 (aka P-20) was the modified Respironics 10 LPM concentrator. UO modified it to put out 10 LPM at 20 psi. There were some purity issues at that output, so UO dialed it down to 8 LPM at 15 psi and now it is called the M-15 or the 1508.

I wonder about the purity of these new units? at the abr website they list the higher output in the 80% range. I would not accept anything below 95%

At the low 80%, that would be like running on compressed air. It would power the torch, but the flame would be cooled and not be very hot.

[kbinkster]

Actually, anything above 90% is good for lampworking.

[Mr. Smiley]

I don't think ABR has updated the specs in a while. They got the purity up there in the 92-95% range... I'm very happy with my two M-20's and they were made before the improvements. I've sold a few M-15's and people have been very happy with them. I wouldn't hesitate to reccomend these units to anybody. ;)

[jokersdesign]

Actually, anything above 90% is good for lampworking.

Im sure anything in the 80-90% would work but the higher the % the better.

I can tell a big difference from a devilbiss oxygen concentrator to tanked oxygen set at 9 psi, same as devilbiss concentrator and the to liquid oxygen set at 9 psi.

[jokersdesign]

I don't think ABR has updated the specs in a while. They got the purity up there in the 92-95% range... I'm very happy with my two M-20's and they were made before the improvements. I've sold a few M-15's and people have been very happy with them. I wouldn't hesitate to reccomend these units to anybody. ;)

sweet smiley I didn't even look at the specs on the UO website. I might have to look into these units again.

[kbinkster]

Yes, naturally, the higher the concentration, the more heat you will get out of the flame. I don't think that 80-90% is good, though. You may have enough heat to melt glass, but in that range, you would have a reduction flame (and it may not even look like a typical reduction flame with long yellow tips on the candles) and could actually wind up damaging your torch. You can have a nice neutral flame above 90%.

[jokersdesign]

Yes, naturally, the higher the concentration, the more heat you will get out of the flame. I don't think that 80-90% is good, though. You may have enough heat to melt glass, but in that range, you would have a reduction flame (and it may not even look like a typical reduction flame with long yellow tips on the candles) and could actually wind up damaging your torch. You can have a nice neutral flame above 90%.

what about a oxyidizing flame?

Kim, can you get homefill II units on the cheap?

[kbinkster]

what about a oxyidizing flame?

Kim, can you get homefill II units on the cheap?

Reduce the fuel and you will have an oxygen-rich flame. But, at some point you sacrifice heat if you have to reduce the fuel too much to get the flame oxygen-rich.

I don't normally carry the homefill units, but I will look into it.