Encasing problem colors? Any thoughts

[Vicki B.]

I use Vetro clear to encase and have no problems except over certain colors and Lauscha. I've pretty much just decided not to hassle encasing Lauscha with Vetro, but Christmas is coming up and I'd like to make some nice encased red florals.

Does anyone have any more thoughts about this - any tips for encasing, say dark purple/red florals?

Thanks

[Toni Lutman]

Start with a core of clear, and encase that with a thin layer of your red (or whatever color you choose), then continue as usual.

The coe of the "hot" colors of Moretti is often much higher than 104, so this may help.

I do the same thing with expensive hand pulled colors to make them go further.

[Vicki B.]

Thanks, Tony,

I've gotten cracks even when I just use the red as a layer of the petal colors.

Do you still think the clear core will help?

I learned fast npt to use rubino as part of the core. Does a clear core help rubino as well?

What I really don't get is that I don't have trouble encasing with rubino, but when I encase rubino the bead develops cracks only in the rubino area - it's painfully clear (or painful with clear .)

[ChaseDesigns]

One word - Bullseye

[Vicki B.]

Tougher for me with the HH, though I do buy plenty of BE! Plus I like all the different colors. Guess I could just try some encased reds with the BE.

[Peach Blossom Beads]

I've never had a problem encasing rubino ever. Look at Kandice Seeber's beads, for crying out loud. It CAN be done! lol!

The red, however, is an issue, even when used as petals. I've seen florals with red in them and I'm wondering how long it will take before they crack. Have you tried transparent red for the petals?

Also, if you're encasing Lauscha, you should use lauscha clear (I mainly use the 2-4mm stringers b/cI love them and they'd work awesome on HH. Although, when I had my HH, I used a 10-12mm lauscha rod every once in a while. If you put your mind to it....). I use it for almost everything (vetro & moretti) but I don't think I'd use vetro or moretti to encase any lauscha, ever.

By the way, I've been making encased florals for a couple of years and use all of the glass you mentioned. If you have any other questions, feel free to Pm me.

[crystalflipz]

Try the Precision Diamond Clear. I've been able to encase a much wider range of glasses with it with no problems with cracking. It does well with the silver glasses, and with many of the ASK colors, even the ones that state "Do not encase".

[glassactcc]

I encase everything with Vetro or Moretti, except Lausha of course. I don't combine Lausha with anything anymore unless it's very small like a stringer or flower or leaf petal. I use a white base for my flower petal, and then the trans red. I have never had a problem encasing Rubino or anything else I can think of as long as I use the Vetro or Moretti. Sometimes I will use Lausha clear as my core bead, and decorate it with Moretti, (like flowers and leaves) and then encase with the Lausha. That seems to work out well. Also, the Lausha trans red and orange is so stunning. I do use that for my flower petals.

[PaulaD]

Nagi just posted some tests that she did with the New Lauscha CLear in "Another Lauscha Thread!" Paula

[WeeMary]

I've encased tricky colours like carnelian by leaving a bare bit of core at the holes, just don't take the encasing right to the mandrel. I know it won't help with all styles, but worth a thought!

[PaulaD]

Wow what a great idea!!

Paula

[Vicki B.]

That's really interesting, Mary. I've wondered for some time if the term "encasing" sometimes doesn't refer to full encasing - that is covering the whole bead with a layer of clear. I thought maybe some of the red flowers I'm seeing are on top of another encased layer and they blend in because of the transparent red.

I wonder why you can get away with just leaving some of the core exposed like that. It seems as if the encasement would still crack where there are incompatibilities.

I do know that the encased coral beads that I have done that have NOT cracked are small ones, and I'm not sure why if the proportions are the same - hmmm.

Then there's the question if spot encasing would work in some difficult cases...i.e. have the red or coral flower lie on top of the last layer of full encasement and then spot encase the flower....

[WeeMary]

I'm not sure why it works, I saw the tip here a while back and had to give it a try. I'm not doing florals, I was just thinking of cores, sorry I'm not more help!