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loco
2005-11-11, 12:42pm
When annealing larger beads I soak at 950 an hour for every 1/2 inch. What about hollows? The thickest part of a bead may be ¼ to 3/8 inch, but the bead could be 3 inches tall. Is it necessary to soak so long? I am a bit of an efficiency freak and if I’m done torching I like to move along the program and save a fraction of a cent on electricity.

Actually I just want my kiln cool enough quick enough so I can open it as soon as possible… OK I admit I get up in the middle of the night to see what crawls outta the kiln!!!!

MikeAurelius
2005-11-11, 12:56pm
If what you are doing now is working, don't mess with success.

loco
2005-11-11, 1:02pm
If what you are doing now is working, don't mess with success.
LOL!!!!! But it doesen't work!!!! When I get up at 3 AM I wanna see the failures and successes so I can go back to sleep. If 1 hour is good, that's what I want.... 3 hours and I have to wait and damnit I hate to wait. #-o

loco
2005-11-11, 1:09pm
OK so I forgot to mention..... on a lot of my beads hollows are built on hollows and more hollows are built on those... Will those make a difference?

MikeAurelius
2005-11-11, 2:04pm
mmmmmmmm...suggestion: Don't get up at 3 AM. It's an ungodly hour. Wait until 5 AM. Or 6 AM. Then you get a full nights sleep.

dogmaw
2005-11-11, 2:16pm
Hee hee! Loco, I would say that you have the "peeker's disease", just like I do. (and no, that is not pecker's disease!) I find that I need to follow the same rules for hollows as I do for other beds, especially if I have added things on top. Better safe than sorry!

MikeAurelius
2005-11-12, 7:14am
Loco - sorry about that previous post if I came off a bit weird...life just threw me a curve ball a couple of days ago. It was intended to be a bit tongue in cheek, but in re-reading it, today I see it differently.

sigh...