Perfect Bead Exchange Tips

[Hayley]

The purpose of the Perfect Bead Exchange is for all the participants to challenge ourselves and to help each other be better at shaping beads. We just started and already an incredible amount of invaluable information and tips have been shared. It was suggested that I would start a new thread in the Tips and Techniques section so that not only participants can access the information easier but others who are not in the exchange can also benefit.

Our first "assignment" is to not only make perfectly shaped round/donut beads but to make a set of five matching (in terms of size, shape, diameter and thickness) ones.

If you are interested in joining, we still have room! Here is the link:
http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=85756

[Hayley]

Discussion/Help #1
Tips on Making Matching Sets :-k


Troy T. and Hector
Hec suggested something the other day which I tried last night. I went through Ahava's orphans from sets she did in the past and picked out one size I liked. I put a thin layer of tape on a clean mandrel and slid the bead over it to keep it in place. I made my first bead to about the size of the orphan and then put them side by side to compare sizes quickly. It enabled me to make a bigger bead and have the original close by as a reference.


Kathy / Artwhim
I use different methods depending on the type of bead I'm making.

-For most beads larger than spacers, I will use another bead as a visual. This works great for most shapes, but I particularly find it helpful on olive shaped beads because not only do they need to be the same length, but the angle of curve is important too. Never used tape to hold it on the mandrel, but that's a good idea.

-For spacers, (originally heard this tip from Anne Ricketts), I make as many as I can on the mandrel. I do not reintroduce them to the flame, just make and go. Seems like more distortion happens when I try to keep them all warm. I loose maybe 1 out of a batch of 10 or 15 (not all on the same mandrel) from cracking, but considering how much time is saved I'm OK with that. If you have trouble with them cracking, spread them further apart on the mandrel. If they are too close they are still getting too much radiant heat. This process may be more successful on the torches that don't put off much radiant heat. They are a little trickier if they need to be struck. Can be done but you have to get the timing down just right and I usually only do 4 or 5 on one mandrel if they need special attention like striking or reduction.

For simple little frit beads, I precut what I like to refer to as "plugs". Personally I think a 1 1/4" length of rod makes a nice round frit bead that looks good in jewelry. It's a great way to use up shorts and I keep precut plugs of white and clear ready for when I need them. I have a pair of pliers that I altered to a semi-blunt nose and they hold the end of these little pieces easily. This process works best on glasses that don't misbehave when the cut end hits the flame. When adding frit, that isn't as big of an issue which is why I only use the plugs for frit bead sets.

Earring pairs get made on the same mandrel. I find it doesn't work as well with glasses that need to get struck because one always seems to strike different than the other, so I will make them separately and just use a bead as a visual.

With all these tricks, seems like I still end up with some orphans that didn't quite come out the same, but things are more consistent than just winging it.


Sheila / beadworkstudio
I started making beads because I wanted a set of spacers to make a bracelet from Bead and Button, and the lampworkers I knew wouldn't make spacers. I had a torch I used to pull stringers and stuff for fusing, so I got some mandrels and bead release, and used strips of fusing glass to make my first beads. I think I wanted to prove that it wasn't all that hard, so I was very determined to make them consistent. And, no, I never made the bracelet. I also haven't fused anything in about five years.

I make spacers one at a time, using a sample bead as a guide. I made my sample beads years ago and just "flame annealed" them, then left them on the mandrels. They haven't cracked yet.

I use the disk method (build up 3 layers as a disk, then melt it down). I always apply the same number of wraps with the same volume of glass. Once you get a rhythm going, your beads will become consistent. My first few are often a little big or small, and they are "off" if I lose my concentration.

Then I hold the new bead and the guide bead with the mandrels parallel with the table and compare them. Hold one bead above the other. Don't try to look at the whole bead and compare it to the guide. Focus more on the width; if the width is the same, then the diameter will be the same if you applied the same number of wraps with the same volume.

Some more tips off the top of my head:
* Don't melt the glass soupy hot before you put it on the mandrel. Just get it soft and barely flowing. You'll be able to control the volume of glass better that way. (Silver glass is different--get it really hot, then let it cool a little before you wind it onto the mandrel.)
* Don't apply new wraps until the previous wrap is solid. You won't get a consistent amount of glass if it's soft.
* Try to apply the glass evenly around the mandrel. You'll get a wider footprint if you have to even it out too much.
* Make your guide bead exactly the size you want. Don't try to make beads that are a little bigger or smaller; you'll be inconsistent if you try that.
* I think white works best for the guide bead. It's bright enough that you can compare a glowing bead and get it close.
* Once you get into a groove, you won't need the guide bead anymore.

[Hayley]

Tips on Marvering and Shaping Ends :-?


Hayley
The first marver is feather light when the glass is molten and soft, then harder on the second roll. Heat the ends a bit and then use the side of the marver to "flatten" the ends.


Troy
Marver gently on the first pass and your glass has to be very hot or else you will dislodge the release. Your glass has to be molten down to the mandrel, not just on the surface. By pressing on glass that isn't hot enough on the end, you are pushing the release out of place. And also try not to direct the flame on the mandrel itself when working on the ends, just the edge/end of the glass. Sometimes a direct flame will lift flakes of release that's already been stressed. Once you have your ends fairly shaped, you don't need to go back and make them molten again, just insurance heat and you should only need a gentle reshaping when you're almost done with the bead.

[Hayley]

save for #3

[Hayley]

save for #4

[Hayley]

save for 5

[Hayley]

save for #6

[Hayley]

save for #7

[Hayley]

save for #8

[Hayley]

save for #9

[Hayley]

save for #10

[josielv]

whatcha doing hales

[josielv]

I have also heard to mark the rod with a permanent marker to use the same amount of glass each time