Google
 

PDA

View Full Interactive Version Of This Page : Tips for getting an even footprint on 1/4" mandrels?


Lisi
2008-05-25, 1:47am
Or on any size of the larger mandrels? I've never worked with anything larger than 3/32", so I'm lost!

I made a pandora type bead last night on one of those heavy 1/4" mandrels, but it was quite difficult, and I had to re-try several times.

Thanks in advance! :)

Kevan
2008-05-25, 2:00am
Lisi, it's going to take a few beads to work it out. Make a very thin foot print to begin with. I usually start by laying down a fairly even line of glass around the mandrel that's maybe only 1/8 of an inch wide. I build up on that and then melt that down. That way I get better sides. If you start out with a big ole swipe of glass, you will never get nice puckered sides.

Just don't start your first lay down of glass too wide. It's hard to turn the mandrel smoothly at first, but you will get used to it.

jaci
2008-05-25, 9:23am
you can also use a stringer to make the outer sides of the bead and fill it in, like a tracer..

wendbill
2008-05-25, 7:10pm
Or on any size of the larger mandrels? I've never worked with anything larger than 3/32", so I'm lost!

I made a pandora type bead last night on one of those heavy 1/4" mandrels, but it was quite difficult, and I had to re-try several times.

Thanks in advance! :)

Ha ha I was trying this last night with similar problems....

kramdas
2008-05-25, 7:31pm
I also start with a very narrow footprint. (Try working close to the tip of the mandrel so you can use the edge as a reference in keeping your footprint straight.) You can then add to it if needed on the sides, and I marver it a bit as well to widen it. You'll also find that gravity will not help round out your bead as it does on a regular mandrel. Takes some getting used to, but you'll get it!

wendbill
2008-05-25, 10:35pm
I've never really got the hang of marveering. I've always used gravity on my beads...

I found trying to rotate the larger mandrels meant I kept getting cramp in my hands.

kramdas
2008-05-26, 4:32am
I marver because I like to have a low profile for the base of my raised floral pandoras. (It also feels funny to me holding a regular mandrel after making a few pandora beads) :)

cadia
2008-05-26, 6:00am
great tips !

DFS
2008-05-26, 6:47am
Lisi,
I am by no means an expert since I only received my mandrels last week. I have found that laying down a thin round of glass (with a thickish stringer) then heating to as close to even as possible and then marvering helps get a nice even footprint. Also I think I just accepted that the first few would be big honkin beads. After a week though, the beads are much smaller and much easier. I also got the 5/32 mandrels and things are easier on those. Be careful, it is addicting.

Joyce

rubytwoshoes
2008-05-26, 9:49am
I've not tried this yet so I don't know if it works but I read somewhere that if you flatten the end of a thinner rod or thick stringer before applying it to the larger diameter mandrel it helps. Let me know if it works!
Vickie

Lisi
2008-05-26, 10:51am
Thanks for your help, there is a lot of great tips here already! :D

The mandrel I have is a solid one, 9 inches. Heavey and it heats up too. My fingers were getting hot, and I spent about 9-10 minutes making the bead. Do you think the hollow mandrels will transfer less heat?? I'm ordering some of those through the bulk buy thread.

jaci
2008-05-26, 3:07pm
yes hollow mandrels stay cooler, Is not holding the heat because of the thickness, it has the same actual heat transfer, but you don't feel it because it dissipates. less metal less heat. (i would just have said it stays cooler, but i'll get someone to explain why..lol)

Hayley
2008-05-26, 3:11pm
1/4" hollow ones are much easier to work with, IMHO. I marver as well . . . including marvering the sides against the side of the marver to straignten them. I also use a long tweezer to "squeeze" the glass so that they are even all around (hope that makes sense!)

kramdas
2008-05-26, 10:07pm
I have some 1/4" solid brass and they get HOTTT!!! I had to finish with a hotpad I had nearby :S The 5/32 I use are solid steel, still get warm but not nearly as bad. Anyone have a source for the hollows?

krisdaka
2008-05-27, 4:14am
Tink has them.

Mr. Smiley
2008-05-27, 4:45am
Also, make sure you don't have any bead release with moisture still in it, inside your hollow. If you do, the steam will super heat the part you're trying to hold. If the release is completely dry, inside and out, the stainless ones don't get hot at all where you're holding them. I've gotten the tips smokin hot making boro beads and have never felt the heat. ;)

ginko
2008-05-27, 6:08am
All good suggestions. Those 1/4" mandrels are like fat crayons to me.

Another thing that helps me is to make sure the glass rod is at a 90 degree angle to the mandrel and rotate the mandrel while holding the rod in the flame. I find if I concentrate on a straight edge on one side, the other side takes care of itself.

kramdas
2008-05-27, 7:41am
Tink has them.

Thank you!