Suggestions for good Bullseye opaques?
Hi! I picked up a big lot of Bullseye glass, but it's mostly transparents, so I'd like to get a few opaques to round out the palette. What Opaques do I want? Extra points if it looks different from 104. :-)
Thanks - -Laura (P.S., extra-double-bonus points for what BE colors I should avoid.) |
everybody always raves about the Bullseye pinks.
I find that most of the opaques are at least a bit translucent. I don't have much experience with it though. |
There is a new book with Bullseye color combinations. I can't play the video on the page right now, so don't know whether you can find any information on the page without buying the book.
https://www.aaeglass.com/the-color-p...anya-veit.html |
I would agree most of the opaque are semi translucent in nature. Which can be really cool or a PIA depending on what you are going for. Their transparent colors are the best if you ask me of all the lines, Fantastic clarity and consistency, so you got the good glass!
|
Bullseye Opaques
Try Bluestone Opaque, Periwinkle Opaque, Pumpkin Orange, Spring Green, woodland Briwn and French Vanilla.
|
Thanks, Kellydw!
|
You will want some dense white and stiff black too. French vanilla reacts with the pinks (not in a good way)
|
The turquoise opaque is very pretty too.
|
Aventurine green and blue are very dense transparents, Seaweed less so but all are good for sparkle.
|
Unless it is specifically called opaque, they are typically opalescent, not true opaques as several people have pointed out.
|
I use French vanilla instead of Dense White or White Opaque unless I need to use a color with lead or copper, which are most of the pinks and purples, and of the some blues and greens. Bullseye has a color reaction chart on their website that tell you what colors react with other colors....
http://www.bullseyeglass.com/methods...ity-chart.html The French Vanilla looks white and it is easier to work with than the other white so I use it whenever I can. |
I tried to find why they have the T and F categories on the bullseye website. T = Torch only and F = Torch or Kilnwork. This is counter intuitive to me because torch temps are much higher than the 1480-1500 full fuse temps. I have a bunch of Bullseye stringer and started doing stringer stacked murrine. I thought I got the whole reactive chart figured out but the whole F & T thing has got me really confused.
BTW - I think that reactive chart is designed to thwart creativity. I want to put a white cloud in a blue sky. Simple right? Every color combo I want to use seems to be reactive. I eventually find a white (White Opal 0113 type T) cloud in a blue sky (Light Aquamarine 1408 ) and they aren't reactive but the T on the white means I can't use the murrine in kilnwork projects? Or even melt the stringers into a tube in the first place? Whisky Tango Foxtrot! |
All times are GMT -7. The time now is 6:00am. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.