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-   -   Boro Kiln Schedules--Newbie (http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=83054)

lillianw 2008-02-23 11:52am

Boro Kiln Schedules--Newbie
 
Hey all--A friend and I are playing with boro for the first time today and we're working with tequila sunrise. There's a lot of talk of kicking up the temperature a bit to strike in the kiln. Here's what my book tells us to do for a boro program (I have a jen ken).

Temp1 = 1050
Hold 1 = 6 hours
Ra2 = Full-deg/hr
Temp = 940
Hold 2 = 30 minutes
Ra 3 = 600 deg/hr
Temp 3 = 400 degrees
Hold 3 = 0 min.

I'm hearing that with tequila sunrise to get the really nice pinks we need to crank the kiln to 1100 or even up to 1200. When do we do this? We are getting the kiln up to 1050, then working for 3-4 hours and putting our beads in as we continue to work. Is this the right way to go about it? When do we kick the temperature up to the 1100-1200 for the 45 minutes? I'm sure that sounds like a crazy question to most of you but we don't want to ruin this gorgeous glass. Thanks! Lilly and Tracy

Cosmo 2008-02-23 12:54pm

You don't need to go to 940. Just ramp down from 1050 to room temp. If you want to kiln strike, do it at the end just before you ramp down.

When I do kiln striking (which is very rare) I hold my kiln at 1050. I actually have my kiln set to hold for 20 hours at that temp. When I'm done, I just skip ahead to the next step. The next step is to hold for another hour at 1050 to ensure larger pieces have enough time to soak. Then the next step is to ramp up to 1150 to strike for 20 minutes, then from there I ramp down to room temp at 300 degrees/hour.

Elegance_1 2008-02-25 8:40am

Ahh Cosmo,

Your information is always priceless! I have gone around looking for boro annealing information and it's got my head spinning! Thank you for your input! \\:D/

Mr. Smiley 2008-02-25 12:40pm

300 degrees per hour from strike or soak temp to 960 is too fast for most work. Slow it down to 60 degrees per hour until you get to 960... then shut it off. No sense in wasting the time/electricity heating things below strain point... not most of our sized work anyway... and especially boro. The slower ramp from your soak temp to strain point (960) is the key to relieving stress in the piece. If you check a piece that's gone from soak to strain at 300 per hour, I'll bet you see halos under a polariscope. I did a lot of testing when I was making toys. ;)

RuskinDesigns 2008-02-25 12:48pm

I just did this with tequilla sunrise yesterday holding at 1050 for an hour before I ramped down - they went in clear and struck in the kiln

Mr. Smiley 2008-02-25 1:51pm

Another thing to remember is that kilns can be off by a lot! 40-50 degrees isn't out of the question... so if the striking temps posted don't work for you, play around with your kiln... ;)

Mr. Smiley 2008-02-25 1:51pm

Oh and nice job Jodie... those are pretty! :D

RuskinDesigns 2008-02-25 2:16pm

And I can defiitely vouch for the kiln temps to be off. Now that you mention it. My kiln runs I think 30 deg too high so maybe they were in there around 1080 :)

ginkgoglass 2008-02-25 6:54pm

Jodie, I love that Tequila Sunrise!

ellyloo 2008-02-25 7:10pm

So... one coudl do their boro work, and then, when it's at 960, do their soft glass work and ramp down from there like normal!

Mr. Smiley 2008-02-25 8:21pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by ellyloo (Post 1686364)
So... one coudl do their boro work, and then, when it's at 960, do their soft glass work and ramp down from there like normal!

Yeperz and a lot of folks do. ;)


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