New light boxes = MUCH improved photography
 

Posted this in the bathroom ... decide to put it here so it won't get flushed.

I just blogged about these new light boxes I picked up at the Rochester Gathering. If you are interested in the before and after comparison, click on the link to my blog:

http://envisionsf.blogspot.com/2013/...ic-set-up.html

They are really awesome! Eliminated the hot spots, and most of the reflections and the glare (a little is needed to show depth and 3D quality of the beads, imho).





With all the recent discussion on improving one's photography, this may be the answer to your next submission to a juried show/book!

I have to second Hayley's opinion- mine arrived yesterday evening in the mail and got a few pics this morning:



One thing that is particularly nice when comparing it to my old photo tent- you're not constrained by the shape/size of the tent when laying out your work. The best thing is that I'm not dreading taking photos as much as I used to..which is a win in my book :)

I was looking at these after seeing a post on FB today...must get some! (and a new camera!)

How space do you guys use with your light boxes set up??

It takes up quite a bit of space, Joy- my desk top is probably close to 4' or more across and it is pretty filled with enough space for the backdrop in the middle.

Here is a quick pic of my set up, Joy. With the lights so tightly placed, it needs a surface 40" wide. The depth of the light boxes is about 20". (It's temporarily on my dining room table while I reconfigure my photography area to accommodate the larger set up.)

Attachment 141075

Thanks for the input guys ;p

I've been struggling for a long time with lighting - these look fantastic! Hayley, those bead photos are just incredible!

Thanks so much for posting this info. These are going to be at the top of my Christmas list. :)

Well, I talked myself into a new camera, so it's only right that a new lighting setup should join it. :) Thanks for sharing!

How easy/difficult is it to set up and take down the soft boxes? I don't have a good place to leave them up all the time, and if they're a pain to set up, I probably won't end up using them much. From browsing photography shops, it looks like some softboxes are like umbrellas, and you just open them up. For others, you have to insert wires into all the corners and into some central thing, which looks like quite a job.

Hayley, is the graduated background that you're using (under glass) paper or vinyl?

The lightboxes Hayley uses are very easy to setup. They open like an umbrella and lock into place without having to insert rods or wires into the corners. After the lightbox is popped open and locked, you screw in a lightbulb, cover the front with the diffuser, insert the stick in the stand coupler on the back of the lightbox, and stand it on the table. Plug in the cord, click the inline switch and you're ready to photograph. It takes about 3 total minutes from pulling it out of the nylon bag to setting in on the table. To see more, go here: dougbaldwinphoto.com/lightboxes.html

What Doug said, Emily. It's very easy to set up!

The graduated background is vinyl - I got them from B&H Photo. I cut the piece in half lengthwise so it's narrower.

Thanks, Doug & Hayley! I went ahead and ordered a set of lightboxes from Doug. I should have gotten the ones he had at the Gathering and saved myself shipping, but I needed time to talk myself into it.

Emily, I actually paid for mine at the Gathering and asked Doug to ship them to me! lol!

these look really nice. Does anyone know how they might work with a 19" tall mannikin head/neck? I use the mannikin to show earrings and necklaces and her skin always has a weird greenish cast that drives me nuts trying to correct in Photoshop. She will not fit inside my current light box ](*,)

Sigh..... I'm going to break down and get 2 of these really soon. Awesome photography! I really lack in that area. Expensive camera, expensive desktop publishing programs, poopy photo setup.

Elizabeth, I hope Doug will chime in on this ... On his web page, he mentioned 16" pieces working with this system. Not sure about 19".

Alexis, with your expensive camera and software, you will rock with this set up!

First, be sure the White Balance is set on your camera to the closest White Balance of your lights. Don't expect Auto White Balance (AWB) to do the work for you. Anything automatic will frequently trip you up.

Most lights will need a bit of color correction in Photoshop. The easiest way to automate the process is to include a tiny part (1/4") of a 18% gray card and set it in a corner of the photo. When the photo is opened in Photoshop or Elements, go the Levels Command (PS: Image > Image Adjustments > Levels). Click on the middle gray eyedropper to activate. Click on the gray card in the photo with the Eye Dropper and the photo is globally color corrected to neutral. Crop out the gray card after color correcting the photo. This method works easily and correctly if you use an 18% gray card. Anything else you click on for color correction may not be exactly neutral, and your photo will color correct to the opposite of the color in the sample.

The first question that comes to mind is, are you really using the whole 19" of the form? If not, move your camera in closer to fill the frame with the important stuff. The front of the lights measures about 19". That being said though, the light will subtly fall off as it gets to the edge of the light source. Get the lights in as close as is practical to provide a large soft source for what you're photographing. The easiest and cheapest way to counteract any light falloff is to put large white card stock around the areas where the lights are not. We call these fill cards. I bought a ream of 11x17" white cover stock we use in photo class to use as fill cards.

You can always add more lights to the set to increase the lighted area. At the Bead & Button Show photo class we had a student who was creating a photo for her upcoming ad in Cowboys and Indians Magazine. We added 2 more lights to her extended set and she was good to go. The shot contained about 4 necklaces and a bracelet.

That's exactly how I do it, Doug! :)

thank you Doug! where can I get an 18% gray card?

Most decent photo stores in larger cities should have them. Or go to bhphotovideo.com to order one.

Hayley, which graduated background did you get ? I'm having a hard time finding it on the website.

It's been a long time since I got mine but I believe this was the one I purchased.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...und_31x43.html

Here are the gray cards.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search...&Ntt=Gray+card

Thanks very much Hayley ! :)

If you are getting a green caste then you either have some very strange lights (or are getting light reflected off of green walls), your camera IS NOT set to auto color balance (which actually works pretty good in most current consumer cameras) or you are changing the color when you get it into your photo editor.

If you go with most modern cameras, with auto color balance set to auto under most common lights found in a home, with white reflective surfaces around the subject, your images are going to be pretty close out of the camera. The camera companies have worked hard to make point and shoot type cameras almost fool proof.

If you are going to adjust color in the photo editing software, a gray card works ok, but a black, white, gray card works better so you can adjust low, high and mid-levels. There are any number of these available, usually the same place you buy a Photo Gray Card. Here are a few on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Opteka-Balance...6161744&sr=1-8

A smaller, cheaper version of the one above:
http://www.amazon.com/Optek-Premium-...6161744&sr=1-1

And if you want to really get into color control, there is this:
http://www.amazon.com/DGK-Color-Tool...6161876&sr=1-3

The most expensive one is the first at $13.00.

Of course all the color calibration tricks in the world won't help your images if the person viewing them is viewing on a monitor that isn't close to being calibrated for color, brightness and contrast. ;)

Mike

thank you all for the great advise. I will be checking out the B&H photo site now. I had a bit of an epiphany last night, as the manniken doesn't fit in the photo cube, I usually set her up outside, I'm wondering if the greenish cast might be coming from the grass/trees and possibly she just has a weird complexion.

It seems that some people mistook my original comment (which I have deleted) in my blog about my inability to capture iridescence using this system and thought it was the flaw of the light boxes! I want to stress that it's NOT the light box but user's error! I am no professional photographer and we all know silver glass is difficult to photograph! Here is another image - I think I am doing better in capturing the iridescence here.



I will continue to learn and strive to improve ... and will share more pictures here!

You are all welcome to post your results too! PLEASE!!!

I currently have no photo/light setup - beads aren't good enough to sell yet. I do, however, have my entire studio lighted with daylight bulbs and I'm a big believer in their value. My question is: under what circumstances would you need more than one setup? I noticed you have options for ordering more than one. Thanks.

Doug recommends two light boxes (see pictures above for my and Aja's set up) - that's what I got and love the result!

Lot of great information here! I was disappointed to find out that the light boxes are sold out. I hope there will be more soon.

The lightboxes are temporarily sold out because of the great posts like the one here by Hayley, blogs by glass artists and great Facebook posts. The response has been very gratifying.

I've placed a factory order and will have lots more lightboxes shortly. Please check back on the lightbox page every few days. I'll keep the page updated with info so you'll know when the more lightboxes arrive. Thanks for your patience.

dougbaldwinphoto.com/lightboxes.html

Thanks Doug. I'll try to be patient!

My lights came yesterday early in the day. It only took minutes to set them up so that was a great beginning. :) I only had time to play a little bit so snapped off a few pics using only a light gray (almost white) card stock sheet of paper for the back ground in this shot. Next to no editing used at all using Photoshop 10.

The background I ordered (same as Haley's) arrived late yesterday and it was so curled up, I had to straighten it so will hopefully play with that later today.

ETA: I took the second shot this morning using a black to gray gradient printed on regular paper under a sheet of plexiglass that is frosted. I did not use a 18% gray scale card in either photo. Will play with that later on. So far, I REALLY like these light boxes soooooooooo much more than my light tent. :fireblob: Yep, they take up a lot of room but so worth it. I have mine on a 4 foot table and they just barely fit. :)

Now, if someone could tell me how to get that silver in those beads to shine and sparkle, I'd be a very happy camper ! lol !

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h6...hts640x535.jpg

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h6...it2640x524.jpg

The one problem with the way these lights set up is that your light comes from the side, which creates flat light. If you add a third light in front, you will bring out the color and liven up their appearance. Try adding some contrast to the image as well in your editing program.

Mike

Mike, I'm not sure what you're talking about actually. The color you see in the pressed beads are actual. Browns, black, soft yellow and amber. The only thing I have a problem with is the sparkle of the silver or at least the shine. The first picture is flat no doubt about it. I did very little to edit it and very little to actually pose it properly. It was a quick shot just to try out the lights. I'm still waiting on the background I bought to straighten out so I can use it with the 18% gray scale card.

I'll try the light in front as well once everything else is ready to use. Thanks for the tip. :)

Sorry, I was using photo speak... flat lighting means you don't have any depth (it has a 2D appearance and not a simulated 3D look) or sparkle (which is what you are missing) to your object. What photographers say is that the picture is lifeless... kind of like the difference between a bar of gold and a bar of lead. One shines and the other doesn't. Not that the lighting in your example above is that bad, but with just side lighting, you aren't going to get the sparkle and shine and colors that pop as you would with some additional front lighting. You may not even no the difference until you have seen two pictures side by side, one with two side lights and one with two side lights and a front light or one side light and one front light. I've also done 5 lights before, 1 on each side, two at the front at 45 degree angles and one behind (sometimes above looking down).

You don't need everything else to practice lighting your beads. You can never practice too much. :D

Mike

These two shots are done with no light in front. To ME the one on the left has more definition and doesn't look flat. What do you think Mike or anyone looking in ? I played with lighting and contrast in Photoshop. Since I have PS 10, the little eye dropper won't let me click on the gray scale card so I have done what I could. PS 10 still confuses me on a lot of things. :shock: The colors in these beads are PERFECT according to my monitor. I mean, I can't get them any closer if I tried. Now, as for them looking 3D vs 2D - I don't know. They look pretty good to me. Any Feedback would be greatly appreciated. :)

I literally have no room for a light in front. lol ! I tried everything I could think of with what I have. Even if I put one light box on the side that would be fine but I have nothing to set one on in front and if I did, I couldn't shoot the picture. lol ! So......I do what I can. I'm not going to enter any beads for a book or anything but I do like a nice looking photo for my effort. lol !

I still love the light boxes but there is a learning curve to be sure. :)



http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h6...ix3585x640.jpg http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h6...fix585x640.jpg

You did a good job, Debbie. To me they are a little over exposed (I like to lean towards the lower middle rather than the upper middle of the exposure graph like you have them) and a little light on the front would help, but from what I would do verses what you have done would not make a very large improvement in appearance. You will get a lot of rave reviews from those that don't look at everything with photography eyes. It's the curse of a photographer that we can't look at a picture as just a picture. :D

If you can't put the light in front, put it above or below a bit. All you are trying to do is skim a little more light across the front. I've even used a large flashlight before with a Kleenex in front of it or a small flash (I have several they use to give away as gifts) with a coffee filter (white unused) or handkerchief over the front to diffuse the light a bit. There are ways, but for what you want, maybe not worth the trouble.

Nice job.

Mike

Thanks for the help Mike. I appreciate it. My camera is a very simple, inexpensive point and shoot from about 6 -7 years ago that's not even made anymore. I'm sure that's part of my problem. lol !
I'll just keep working it with what I have. :)

Here's a picture I took with the new set up.

I got mine today....they set up in minutes. Now I'm playing around with taking photos of metal (copper, brass, pewter) cuffs and stuff. Any tips for non-glass items? I've been more or less happy with my other photos...just the old lightbox and lights were awkward as anything in the new space I allotted to them.

Debbie - your set looks great! I am still trying to play with my set up by adding a front light source (e.g. flash light) ... it is continually a learning process, that's for sure! But at least we have a great set up to start with now!

Ellen - that's just outstanding ... LOVE the bead too!

Lisa - post some pictures taken with the new set up so we can see and perhaps Doug and/or Mike can help tweak it for even better results!

That's my plan....I'll wait til morning and retake a few that I took this morning so the photos will be in the same daylight.

Here's one of my first bead photos with the new lights. So much better than my prior attempt at photographing this same set. I finally figured out how to increase my shutter speed yesterday and that's helping me a lot, too.

Still need to get a gray card. This photo is unedited and the background is a bit dark.

http://i41.tinypic.com/t6as1i.jpg

So here are some photos using the new light tent. I didn't adjust anything on my camera (a very old but trusty Sony DSC F-717) other than to use the gray sheet and set the white balance. I didn't exactly understand if you do that AND the 18% gray in a corner or if that is an EITHER/OR situation...

I use a stone floor tile for the background because it works with my jewelry and metals shots for Etsy. That's what you see in all three (the same tile).

I used the eye dropper/Levels setting on the 18% gray corner in all three and you can see the black cuff isn't cooperating. I have always had trouble photographing black jewelry...this one is compounded because it has a matte finish on it. The purple cuff is actually showing the glossy finish much better than I've seen it with the old light setup. The duo is also a matte finish lacquer and the photo is looking kind of flat to me (over and above the "flat matte finish")

Suggestions?

Mike or Doug? Any input on my photos?

I think you did an outstanding, job Lisa. They came out really well and show the detail. The only minor nit is on the last one, the background and bracelets (especially the one on the right) come pretty close to matching so they don't stand out as well as they could. I would have gone with a darker background, maybe a dark brown sandstone rather than light colored. Still a good job though.

Mike

Thanks, Mike! I rarely do all white so that jumped out at me as well. I'll find a backup background for those so it does stand out better.

And the matte black one? I have such issues photographing the black items. This looked pretty good to me, which I can only attribute to the new lights.

I think you do good on the black one. You can see the details just fine, which is what you want. Black objects photograph a bit differently and can be a challenge at times. Especially if you have both black and light colored items in the same picture. I had to spend a lot of time practicing when I started shooting black dogs as I kept ending up with black blobs at first. So I shot a lot as I learned how to light them. Luckily I had a lot of willing subjects that loved to model for food. :D

Mike