striking boro
 

I am just getting started in boro. I have only tried a couple of peices. Do I need to strike all boro colors up to 1050 to get full effect on colors? a bead I made,(dont ask me about color names , came out of a samplepack and dident really pay attention,) but its kind of redish brown with a few swirls of a yellowish color comming in to play.If I raised kiln temp and held would it come out different ( better) ?

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It depends on the color. Some need to be struck. Some don't. Some need higher temperatures to strike. Some need to be flame struck. Clear as mud now?

:D

Seriously, though, most colors don't need to strike. Cobalts, blacks, greens, caramel/butterscotch, etc. don't need to be struck. The colors that really need to be struck are the Amber/Purple type colors. The best way to do that is to work them really hot so that they go almost completely clear. Then let them cool for 30-45 seconds out of the flame. Then introduce them into the back of the flame and they will strike.

It's best to try just some plain beads of one color first to get the hang of striking.

I read every thread in the boro room and it was well worth the time. Think of it as a good book that you got for free. there is so much information available here. It really helped me to get some great colors my first time with boro.

Perhaps we should have a "frequently asked boro questions" area for those new to boro with tips, tricks and annealing schedules?

I agree. Perhaps a "sticky" thread at the top of the page. I don't have the ability to do it since I'm not a moderator, but maybe Brent can do it.

Here's a short list of some things I think should be included:

• List of the different color manufacturers and their web sites
• List of the different types of colors - striking, crayon, tint, ruby, etc.
• Tips on how to use the various types of colors
• Samples of pieces made with certain colors would be helpful as well
• Suggested annealing temperatures and ramp times
• A "troubleshooting" section - list some of the common problems and how to avoid/correct them

I'm sure there are more. I just can't think of them right now. Too early in the morning...

I'm with you all, I'd love to contribute to such a thread. It might be very helpfull for the search button impaired;)

Speaking as a newbie; that is a wonderful idea. I kow I would read it all the time. I hope its a go.

Thanks Bonny

Summoning the forum guides for approval.....

There are a lot of really good tech articles on the Glass Alchemy Arts site. If you really want the answer read the Striking article.

~R

What I would really like to see is a chart of temps to kiln strike various colours, and for how long. For example, I just found out the reason my DAP looks like poop is that I never got it close to the 1200 deg mark.

pyroglasstic the headbanging is not nice.[-X we were all newbies once and that's what this boro room is for. I agree a sticky thread with frequently asked questions is a great idea. Topher, welcome to the dark side. don't be frightened away. we are really a nice bunch of glass addicts. I think pyro is having a bad day. cosmo is right on you need to practice with each color you work and try diferent things and take really good notes so you can try to duplicate what you did if you like the results you get. In general 1050 for 30-60 minutes is sufficient for many colors but yes at a higher temp for a longer period of time that mystery color you were playing with may very well strike deeper. no way to tell until you try it. there's no one way or right way to play this boro game and don't let anybody tell you otherwise.

That's not why. My Amber/Purple colors never go over 1100 in the kiln.

What causes it is not keeping it hot enough when you are working it. If you let it get too cool, it will go into "phase separation". I don't exactly know what that is, but it's not good for the color. Work it hot and keep it hot. You want it mostly colorless when you are working on it.

Here's the chemistry lesson from the right brain glass working therapist. keep in mind I got a C in chemistry but this is how i understand it:
When you keep a piece hot enough the large and small molecules move around freely and stay well mixed. if the piece is not kept hot enough and parts of it begin to cool the larger molecules can no longer move freely and the smaller molecules begin to pool and separate out into similar materials. you will get crystal growth in a random and unorganized fashion. this is phase separation.(think baby poop, veiny beige lines and devit) what you want to do is keep the whole piece white hot and then remove it from the flame.
to strike you can either pop it in the kiln and let the kiln do the work or bring it back into the flame once it has reached the transformation temperature (count to 40) bring it into the outer most reaches of the flame to strike and turn very slowly. you want crystal growth in an even and organized fashion around a central nuclei (think snowflake)
do the flame striking too quickly and your crystal growth will be uneven and you will get striations in the glass ( phase separation) and this will cause muddy colors. when you begin to see color develop remove it before you are satisfied because more crystal growth will occur when you anneal the piece.

Yeah. That's what I meant to say...

lmao

As a boro newbie, I think a FAQ sticky would be a great idea! I went to the GA site, but to be honest I found it a bit too technical for me at this point. At some point, I'm sure I'll go back and be able to really use the info there. Right now though, all I want to do is play with my boro:fireblob: , and all the technical details make it too much like work - my ADHD can't stay focused long enough! :lol:
Carol

You aren't alone. I felt the same way when I started researching it about a year ago. It make a lot more sense now, but I get something new each time I re-read it. I still have so much to learn though...