Bullseye Purchase
 

Well I was gifted some Bullseye glass and as any of you who work with it can guess, I am now in love with the stuff!

I've been searching and reading for the forum as to what colors everyone loves and a lot comes up about the odd lots. I can see why by the beads posted! Amazing stuff!

Here is what I need some help with though. I would like to know the best way to approach "stocking up" on a BE stash. There is the "One of Each" pack. But, that only has one of each rod. Then there is the "Hot Rodz Starter Set". But the rods are not labeled and as the rep told me, it is a random draw. I could get just about anything (except Lusters).

So, if you were to start stocking up today, would you start with one of the sampler sets and some additional glass colors by the oz. or lbs. OR would there be certain colors that you would invest in to start with?

Any and all help would be so greatly appreciated and used!

I wish I had advise for you! Love my Bullseye and I am glad my collection started a long time ago. I have very few of the odds though.

since they no longer do the Studio Stocker direct from BE, I would probably buy a few of the colors I want and just add as I go along.

I'd order colors that you like or tend to use the most.... if you don't go for the greys or dark umbers, why get them in the multi pack? Be sure to order clear, though! Great for diluting and creating great effects with all your other gorgeous opalescent colors. Oh, and don't forget about the frits! They now come in smaller than the one pound jars, so it's easier to spread out your palette.

I love the odds!!

Thanks everyone!

Squid and Ofilia, you make great points. I was thinking in a go for it all now mode. I did that with 104 and there are just some colors that sit there barely used. It's not like I won't be able to add more!

An additional question. What is the difference between the Clear and the Crystal Clear? I've been having trouble finding info on that.

Thanks again everyone!

The crystal clear is clear. The clear has kind of a green tint. Unfortunately both of them are far from bubble free. I prefer the Crystal clear.

I use to use the Schott clear. It is not as bubble filled, but I had too many problems with cracking.

Paula has some great BE colors for sale on her site including some samplers I believe. Arrowsprings may still have some left at 50% off closeout. Also, watch the Garage Sale here - that is where I got the mother lode of my BE stash.

nugget is a great neutral that can also be used to create SIS much like in COE 104.

Michelle - thanks for clearing up the clear thing.
Elizabeth - I've checked out the odds that Paula has. She is a great person to deal with, no doubt!
Katherine - thank you! That seems to be a staple on every list so it is going on mine. Thanks for the silver stringer tip!

Do you mean Nougat?

What color palette do you use most often?

Actually Lynda, one thread I found someone was asking what colors would be good to start with (this was when the studio pack was still available and they didn't want to make that big an investment) and you asked a similar question.

Since reading the above replies to my OP, I've been thinking about that answer you gave. I tend to work with the primaries in the midrange level with a few jewel tones here and there. I do plan to pick up one of the lusters, but am having a bear of a time trying to decide which.

I like to layer transparents over opaques for more depth. In fact, one of the things that I am loving about BE is how easy it is to do that and on the other hand how you can alter colors so much more effectively. So, I'm looking to do a fairly even mix of opaques/opal transparents to start.

Thanks for responding!

P.S. If any of this came out garbled, I'm typing 1 fingered on my iPod Touch. Sorry :)

I'll look tonight when I get home for some primary/jewel tone recommendations.

Thank you so much Lynda. I appreciate it!

Get some french vanilla & antique white if you like to play with reactions or do a silvered stringer, Karen :) I started with BE and still love it .

Have you checked this out ? http://www.bullseyeglass.com/education/torchtips/ It will help you get to know BE .

Linda i would love to see some combo samples. You seriously know how to work the bullseye glass!

I definitely would go the sampler pack route and from there buy larger amounts of the colors you really like. You can also try buying one or two rods first of the color(s) you think you'll enjoy. I did more buying of the single rods and then ordering more of what I liked. I have found the white, black and clear made by bullseye are a staple. I don't like the dense white very much because I don't think it is all that "dense". I have found the white opaque is much better and doesn't fade as much. The light cyan blue and petal pink are beautiful, bright colors which are in the bullseye standard line. The NeoLavender opaque and transparent are also beautiful glass.

When it comes to the odd lots, I love trying out alot of them when they come out. I tend to go ahead and buy 1/4lb of the pink odds as they come out just because I love pink. There are some beautiful odd colors still available and if you think you would like them, I'd grab a few of them while their out there. Below is the Aurora and Aurora Dark that were both odd lots made by Bullseye. They are both a striking glass and have beautiful effects. If you see some of this out there, you may want to grab some while you can. Have Fun! http://www.glassmigrations.com/image...seyeaurora.jpg
http://www.glassmigrations.com/image...darkaurora.jpg

Hi
I would by a sampler, clear, white and black. Then I would try the colors in the sampler and figure out what colors I like. Then I would know what colors I like and start buying those colors. You could also check out the gallery and see what's being made with bullseye. I'm sure you would see odd lot colors there. The lusters are awesome! Thats what I do.
penny5658

Leslie! Those colors are on my list as they were 2 of the rods gifted to me and are very nice.
Bonnie, Tanya and Penny - Thank You for all the great advice. So much to think about!
Reenie - I agree, Lynda posts the most spectacular BE beads! (I've been in search mode for days, believe me!)
And Tanya...those beads are delicous!!!

Howaco has good prices and you can buy single rods if you just want to try some colors.

http://www.howacoglass.com/90_coe.html

Thanks Deb. I went over to her site last night after a few suggestions came my way. Her prices are incredible. I'm thinking that may be the way to go.

Thanks again!

Well, thank-you very much for the compliments :)

Production Rods
General colors
stiff black (both of the opal blacks can bleed under high heat situations. If your making a relatively big bead and you want a "black" base, the charcoal grey transparent doesn't bleed.)
opaque or dense white
french vanilla (can be used silvered)
nougat (can be used silvered)
amber

OK For jewel tone work
Opals/opaques
sunflower yellow ( I like this better than canary, the canary has a bit of a green tint, but that's just my preference. The canary is a brighter color)
Spring green
Pea green
powder pink (this can look like Peruvian opal, and is good for layering)
Sunset coral is a great color in the peachy family.
(There isn't really a great bright opal green)
Opaque Turquoise
Cobalt blue
Gold Purple
baby blue (good for layering)
Deep cobalt blue
Transparents
Red (this is a dense color and a little goes a long way) I have not successfully been able to thin this down with clear to get a less dense red and still get it to strike well
Lt Pink Striker
Cranberry Pink
Violet Striker (this is a great color for petals, it separates some into reddish and violet as it thins out.
gold purple
light sky blue (good for layering)
deep royal blue or Caribbean blue
light green (this is a true green, good for layering)
the emerald green in the BE palette has a bluish tint.
If that's what you're after in a green, then order the emerald
Kelly green (this is a dense color that's good in vine cane)

Sparkle/luster colors
Aventurine green. This is a sparkle color, and you can thin it down with clear, or other transparents
Amber luster - gives a nice gold with a reduction flame. (it also storms nicely)
Either Blue or green luster may go well with your jewel tone palette.

Sizzle stick (GREAT!! dichro for a little bling)

Odd lots that are currently in stock
Bullseye
opal
deep red - I love this color
Transparent
Lt orange striker - this is a must have

Reactive Ice Clear - reacts with copper and silver containing glasses for interesting effects
This is also a good clear for encasing non-reactive colors,
because you can't really burn it.
Mist - gives a shampoo glass appearance
Wisteria - very nice bluish purple
Hematite - storms nicely, good luster effects, can strike to interesting effects if you're patient

Paula - flamedame odds in stock
aurora striking silver glass
Dark aurora
Dark blue aventurine - blue sparkle glass, can be thinned with other colors
Sunset coral light - great peachy/pink color for layering or on its own

Their tints are also fantastic for layering, and even encasing
pale yellow, indigo, grass green, erbium pink

Hey, I have never tried any other glass than Effetre, so I am very curious about other brands, what is the COE for BE and what is the annealing temperature?
Love this thread! Thanks for asking the perfect question Karen, and thanks for really great answers! All good pointers!

Lynda! Thanks so much for taking the time to put together such a thorough list. I just printed it out and I can assure you it will be used. Those are definitely colors that I frequently reach for in my 104 palette.
Thank you again! Oh, feel free to post some of those gorgeous beads of yours. (I'm particularly fond of the fairy you did for a school auction. Gorgeous. Told you I've been in search mode.)

Pia, the COE is 90 and the annealing temp is 960 - 970. Now that is on the production colors. Remember, I am still new to this glass too. As I have been researching there are some odd lot colors such as the auroras which you want to anneal at around 930ish. Squid is the expert on that. Do an advanced search with bullseye and choose the tips, techniques and questions forum. You will come up with a lot of info. You will see some of the most beautiful work too.

Beautiful colors. Mind sharing what you used here?

Aleta, those are light & dark aurora, all by themselves.

thanks.... I would love to expand my colors, but was thinking of starting first on other coe 104 stuff, but who knows... ;)

encased, I think.

You can anneal all of your glass in the 930 range - I do. Including 104 and 96.

Nice advice Lynda,

I have used bullseye from the beginning and love it. I collected Morretti and never use it.

For the white French vanilla is my favorite. It is the only white that is actually opaque. I seem to use mostly opaque glass

When making black and white beads I normally use the deep royal purple for the base black. Using black or stiff black....I haven't figured and much difference with these two, for upper layer dots and stringer work. I find the first heating goes fine. It is when you reheat the blacks that they bleed.

Mixing the mint green with dichroic glass (mixed with clear) can give you a nice opal, like the stone, effect.

Send me your email address and I will send you a blank color chart I created. Print it on card stock and glue your color samples on it. From the "Torch Tips", Bullseye has, I lifted the glass ingredients and the what they react to and put it on the chart for easy reference.

Pia - Listen to Squid :)
Michelle - Printed out your info too. I love your beads. Did I type love..LOVE. In fact one of the test beads I did with BE was a Bousky bead LOL. Not quite on par, but I did my best. I'm pretty tickled with it. In fact, one of the things that sold me on BE. I found the glass isn't as soupy as 104. Stays in place better. I sent you a PM with my email addy. Thank you!!!

unless you are mixing COE's like Reichenbach frits on 104 or 90. I have had NO success with compatability with a lower annealing cycle. Some beads too > 6 mo to crack.

I use 970 generally unless I'm using silver glass.

Karen, one more thing, with bullseye, make sure that you give very good re-heat/insurance heat, especially before it goes into the kiln. It loses temperature more quickly than 104.

I tend to anneal in the 960 range because I am working in my basement, "The Glass Cave" as we like to call it here, and it is cooler down there.

Great to know Lynda! Thank you. I know I would have had issues and wondered why due to the above mentioned issue coupled with not following the tip you just provided. Just added to my notes. Thank you!!!

I could see where those might be problematic. I have some uroboros glass for use with my frits - I don't mix COEs any more.

My experience of using opalescents as the base of a bead results in more thermal cracking.

Oooo....sounds cool:cool:!! Must try it:-P.

Lynda, you should get a job with BE! You are so knowledgable, and a good note taker. Very important to be a good not taker! (somthing I am lacking of:???:)

I will bring up the frits again... BE jars are THE BOMB!! Just can't stop at color choices, kind of like potato chips... can't have just one favorite:!:

Lynda, I agree with Cinta, Bullseye should pay you to monitor the boards and represent them. You really are good!

Thank you! Post your results!

Hi Aleta, The top picture is made with Bullseye Aurora(transparent light blue rod) and the bottom picture is Bullseye Aurora Dark(transparent olive brown rod). Both are beautiful glass and are quite easy to strike. I know FlameKissed Glass has the dark version and FlameDame I think has both varieties in stock.


http://www.glassmigrations.com/image...seyeaurora.jpg
http://www.glassmigrations.com/image...darkaurora.jpg

A few months ago there was some talk about Bullseye changing their annealing schedules, but I wasn't sure if it was just for fusing (since that's what they do the most) or if it included lampwork...so I sent an email and this is the response from Bullseye:

Hi Bonnie- For annealing of beads, the same annealing schedule you have been using at 960 is still just fine. I’m not sure that Tip Sheet 2 had an accurate annealing schedule for lampworking, but here is some instruction from our torchworking teacher Bonnie Celeste.

Program kiln to hold at 960 for at least an hour longer than the beadmaking session. The idea here is to give that last bead a soak time of an hour at 960. Next ramp to 500 degrees at the rate of 100 degrees per hour. Then let the kiln cool to room temperature at its own insulated rate, which could also be programmed in, but the kiln is essentially off at that point.

It's OK to turn the kiln off for a minute to reprogram it if you need to adjust the hold time as long as it is started right back up again.

AFAP stands for As Fast As Possible. Depending on your kiln, the command may be 9999 or "Full" (full power) or maybe something else.

rate temp hold
AFAP 960 x (possible beadmaking time + 1 hour)
100 500 :01
AFAP 70 :01

Here's another approach, using the same schedule, if the controller has a "skip segment" feature.

Program the kiln to hold at 960 and enter a really long hold time (say 12 hours or something like that). Then program a 2nd hold at 960 for one hour, ramp 100 degrees per hour to 500, then off (or ramp as fast as possible to room temperature - which is the same thing). The idea here is that once the last bead goes in, whether it's after two hours of beadmaking or ten hours of beadmaking, then the "skip segment" feature would be employed to move the kiln to the 2nd hold at 960 (for an hour) and then the rest of the schedule.


rate temp hold
AFAP 960 12:00
AFAP 960 1:00
100 500 :01
AFAP 70 :01

I hope this helps- thank you!

Susan

Susan Green
Sales Supervisor
Bullseye Glass Co
3722 SE 21st Ave
Portland OR 97202
888-220-3002
www.bullseyeglass.com

As I get time, I'll go back through old pictures and post them in my album here.

Ofilia - I have some frits on my list that I plan to purchase. I think that is a brilliant way to add color.
Michelle - I will take a pic an post it, but remember I told you up front it wasn't as good as yours. I just followed the directions as best as possible.
Lynda - First, I'd nominate you as a BE rep if it came to it! Second, I could probably add your photos to your album right now for you! I created a BE folder while searching and added all of the BE threads to it that I found most helpful. So many of them included photos of your beads. And so many of the threads had great links to other threads....my printer is going to be on overdrive soon.

I swear I never get these colors on any of my Aurora :( mostly too dark to see the colors. Why is that?

I've started to posting albums - click on my public profile to see them. There's a jewelry one and one started for Bullseye. Many of my pictures must be on our old computer. I'll have to get those later.

If you open the picture, the glass used and conditions are usually the title.

the longer you continue to strike it, the lighter it gets - and it lightens when encased.