From Soda Lime to Boro in new studio, guide me on where to find info on starting Boro
 

It's been four years since moving to a new state, and now have opportunity to set up my Scorpion Torch again. Would appreciate guidance on how to make the switch from ten years of Soda Lime glass before the out of state move, to working with Boro now.

I searched online for links to read, not much there. I would imagine working with Boro is quite different. I remember someone telling me at ISGB conference, with Boro you can put the rod down, go to the bathroom, come back to your bead station and pick up your piece and continue where you left off. Amazing if this is true.

:waving:
Ilene

I don't have that much experience, but have been gathering glass and bought a bigger torch that I have to figure out how to hook up. I'm voting for get some clear, and try melting it. It takes longer to melt, and gets stiff again much faster. There is info in the boro folder that might be helpful on specific colors too.

Have fun!

There are some threads on here about that. I've sort of dabbled, not really switched. I can tell you that clear is your best friend. And a good bead release. And that 1/16's are VERY tricky to use for boro.
I know folks that do amazing things when they first start boro, and others that take a while. Get some sample rods for a good selection, or a starter kit, and play around. See what you think.

I would suggest you go to the TMP site; http://www.talkglass.com/forum/forum.php
and read, read, read, and when you get some experience ask questions.
Starting out on clear is a good suggestion. Get some rod and a few pieces of small bore tube to start with and not worry about color until you can blow balls, and push maria's with the tube and lay lines, make dots, pull stringers and make bails with the rod.
Clear works much easier than a lot of the color does.

Have fun with it.

what are you going to be making? Beads, off-mandrel pendants, sculpture? Functionals?

Here are some easy tutorials to play with. Boro is much stiffer and takes more
heat. There are somethings that work so much better with boro and somethings you still want soft for. http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=71430

This may seem obvious, but.....in my opinion different types of glass work for different things. So my advice would be to not try to make the same things in boro as you do in 104. I think boro lends itself really well for making larger sculptures, making chain, marbles. Lots of these things work so much easier in boro because it is much less prone to cracking. When it comes to on mandrel beads, and working with lots of color, 104 is easier and cheaper. Tubing opens up a whole set of possibilities with boro. Finally, when working in boro, you need to be more picky about your connections. You can add 104 to 104 without really melting the connection until it is smooth. Boro does not like that. Connections, corners, etc need to be smooth. If not, the connections will cause cracks.