Boro - Flame Striking vs. Kiln Striking (pros/cons?)
 

Another thread asked about flame striking boro, and I got to thinking that it would be nice to have a list of the pros and cons of each way to strike boro colors.

I understand that with flame striking you pretty much know that it will look the same coming out of the kiln later on.

I have also heard that kiln striking generally allows you to more efficiently strike colors that are deep within a piece, so you don't have to hold a piece in the flame for an additonal 30 minutes to develop the color.

What are the other pros and cons of each method?

Eric

Well, certain colors work better with kiln striking vs. flame striking. NS Ruby and Garnet work much better if you work them hot and put them into the kiln while they are clear, and let them develop the color in the kiln.

Generally if it's a red, I kiln strike it, and it it's a high-silver color I flame strike it.

How long does boro need to "sit" at the holding temp for crystal growth to occur? I'm just starting this adventure and am yet to get anything to look like boro! Also, do you use layers of different "shades" of glass to achieve the desired effect or is it a single rod and just worked by people who know what they are doing that gets the lovely color variations & shapes/waves??

Ask 100 different boro workers, and you'll get 100 different answers.

Doug Remschneider recommends up to 5 hours at hold temperature to develop color. I usually don't leave mine in there that long. I usually let it go 2 hours or so at temperature then start ramping it down. But it depends on the color of glass, and the color I want. I have re-annealed pieces before to get the colors to strike more. In that situation, I bring it up to temperature and check it every 30 minutes or so. When it's at the color I want (actually it will usually be a little darker at annealing temp than at room temp) I start ramping it back down.

I think I'm going to assume I have not let the beads "soak" long enough to develop color....at least that will be my excuse for today and I'll probably look for another one tomorrow! Thanks for the info.

Lynn... if the color isn't set up right and ready to strike, it won't matter how long you soak for. A lot of this is trial and error on your set up. The numbers people give you are a starting point. If you work amber purple for instance, it should go almost clear before it is ready to really stike nicely. It has to get really hot, align all the elements and then cool below glowing, before being brought back up to striking temp. ;)

While were on the subject, does all boro have to be striked?

Nope... some colors are WYSIWYG. Cobalt, any of the crayola colors... white, black... but the beauty of boro for me, comes from the striking colors. ;)