That is so totally cool!!
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Aloha Kalera!
Would you mind sharing your source for the 5/64 mandrels? Mahalo! - Alpha |
Kalera,
I am in Portland from KY for the weekend. If I was to visit BE, and don't own any 90 coe, what would be the color you would buy first? Would it be frit or rod? |
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That's what I'd get for my style of beads; there are tons of other options, depending on what you like to make. |
Kalera,
Mahalo! You inspire me to keep trying and to find my "voice"- Alpha |
Thanks so much, we went and for now I got french vanilla and clear. I do have some 96 frit already so I will play with that. Thanks so much for being so generous with your information.
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It figures!! I am looking for Dawn Canyon, wanted to buy it this payday and SOMEONE scarfed it up!
Okay, who did it? Who bought it before I could? Huh? Huh?...:poke: ](*,)](*,) |
You can use 96 frit with Bullseye. I go by the OCR rule of up to 20%.
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I for some reason thought that BE is really finiky about other COE's, I guess it is worth the try... But yes, that 5-20% rule makes sense... I am just too skeered to try.
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BE is definitely more finicky than 104, but many of the furnace glasses are actually COE 93-95, and I have used quite a few very successfully with BE. I do have to keep track of which I use, though! Not all of them like BE, and some don't like it AT ALL.
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What is a furnace glass? Is it fusing and slumping glass? Is BE considered furnace glass?
Namaste Rowyn |
"Furnace glass" is the (usually) deeply saturated glass most of the "96 COE" frit is made from. It's often called that as a sort of shorthand, because it was originally developed for larger-scale glassblowers who use furnaces rather than torches. Any glass can be used in glassblowing, but roughly 92-96 COE is most popular. Kugler, Reichenbach, Zimmerman, and Gaffer are all "furnace glass".
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This thread just keeps on giving....a treasure trove of info. Thanks Kalera
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Kalera, you are a true inspiration!
Thank you so much for sharing!! Although I don't have any Bullseye, I am going to try similar colors in 104 granny |
Someone PM'd me about how I work R-108, and I thought I'd answer here in case anyone else was wondering; I don't reduce it, I just work it in a hot neutral flame. For the most part, anything I reduce will have a shiny metallic finish.
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Frit beads
This thread inspired me to pick up my frits again! Thanks for the inspiration!
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Those are GORGEOUS! Thanks for posting them!
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Beautiful beads - it inspires me to do something with all the frit I have!!
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Hi Kalera,
Thank you for this thread. I can see that you answer every question which must be very time consuming. I do have two questions that I'm hoping you can solve the mystery for me. 1) I'm seeing alot of frit beads that have square or geometrical patterns to the frit. Most of the beads that I make have more of a dot appearance, instead of getting a geometric pattern. I tried putting some clear frit over top first frit and it did give it a little geometric pattern, but not to the extent that I want. I would love to know how the heck you do it. 2) How on earth do you get your frit to go right to the bead hole. This is the reason why I do more gravity swirled or raked beads because I can't stand the base color showing through the ends. It kind of reminds me of the old white walled tires - in reverse Thanks again for sharing your recipes with us and I hope we all do you proud... p.s., I ordered your romance frit from That Frit Girl,and I can't wait until it comes here. |
Thank you!
Janith, the more geometrical look I believe you are speaking of is due to frit spreading out over the base when it's heated, and kind of "pushing" against the neighboring bit of frit. That's partly the type of frit (I love frit that spreads a lot!), partly the base glass, and partly the amount of heat applied to the bead after it's rolled in frit. To get really good coverage on my bead, what I do is put the frit in a measuring teaspoon, in a little shallow stainless steel dish to catch the overflow. I heat the bead to glowing, then lift the teaspoon up under the flame and roll the bead in it. Some frit overflows into the little dish. I replenish the fit in the teaspoon every third bead or so to ensure I have a heaping spoon, for best coverage. I got a bunch of measuring spoons at the dollar store and I find they are perfect for this! |
Kalera Thanks for sharing!
I would love to see a Geode Tutorial!! Paula |
I will do one! Thanks Paula! I always wanted to make geodes, as I have been fascinated with crystal-centered stones since childhood.
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The ones I have seen from you are awesome!!
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Kalera,
You mentioned using different viscosity of glasses to achieve a sparkle. Does each color of glass have a different viscosity? How do you find the viscosity of glass? Thank you for all the help you've given in this thread. Mary Di |
I'm not really sure how you find the viscosity of a given glass. Viscosity is a factor in compatibility; sometimes glass that is the same COE can be incompatible because the viscosities are too different. Most of the time it's fine though, and yes, even within a line colors may have slightly different viscosities.
That, brief though it may be, pretty much sums up the depth of my knowledge on it. :) Maybe a real expert will chime in? |
I think it is just a matter of trying things out, like clear glass is often stiffer than white or ivory... that kind of things. I dont think there is really any data available for the different colors or glasses, it is just a matter of experience, that will grow each time you try a new glass. Good way to keep a track of things yourself is to make notes when you torch... something I should do much more. :roll:
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