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Old 2014-06-25, 1:27am
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Speedslug Speedslug is offline
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Join Date: Mar 21, 2009
Location: Winnebago, MN
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Kenzkatz, start with the very basics.

Torch, gas, oxygen.

Glass is a consumable and you will always be getting more glass so pass on that for the moment.

Safety: Eye protection, ventilation, work surface that can cope with gooey hot glass at 2300 degrees.

Glass stresses if it not cooled down slowly and some kinds even explode if cooled or heated too fast. Glass bits can fly some dozen feet and still be hot enough to start a fire so a tiled floor is best but you could also make a box over your work area to keep things contained.

The kind of stuff you want to do with molten glass will guide the kinds of glass you work with. Large sculptural work wants to be boro because it puts up with cooling in the air while you work (to a point). But if you use boro you will need eye protection that can handle the brighter light it gives off when in the flame.

How is your budget? I work "soft glass" (coe 104) because it is among the less expensive types of glass but it needs to be put in a kiln to control how it cools.

How big a kiln you get depends on how big you work is. I get by just fine on 115 vac kiln with less that a cubic foot of space in it.

Some folks do just fine with a 2 foot by 3 foot sheet of metal under a torch, a camp stove size bottle of gas and a hot head torch and make wonderful stuff for decades. Some needle nose pliers and some plumbers wool to keep the glass from cooling too fast and a friend with a kiln to "batch anneal" once a month and box fan in a window in front of the torch along with a pair of ACE eye glasses and maybe the head of a hammer to use as marver and they are set for life.

Happy hunting and pay attention to the safety stuff.
These gases are good for breathing.
You only get one pair of eyes.
Oh and house fires caused by glass work can be a reason for your insurance company to tell you they are not going to pay your claim.
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Last edited by Speedslug; 2014-06-25 at 1:29am.
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