Hey, I moved from a Hot Head to a Lynx after working on a Hot Head for 6-7 months! What prompted me to make the upgrade was going to a bead meeting and watching someone use a Lynx to encase a bead like it was nothing. I mean, she just heated up that clear and wrapped it right around the base bead with ease. I stood there amazed because encasing was something I was really interested in but I struggled to encase on my Hot Head.
When I first got it, I borrowed the GTT instructional VHS (this is how long ago it was) from the vendor who sold me my torch and watched it two or three times just to make sure I knew what I was doing (the video is now on YouTube, but, really, the included instructions were sufficient - I was just anxious about getting started). I sat down with the torch and played with the knobs and flame so I could get a feel for what everything did before I put glass in front of it. Once I did put some glass in the flame, I was hooked.
I later ordered a Phantom, and that's when I met my husband.
There is a learning curve, but it isn't a big one. Things can get a lot hotter a lot faster and you can adjust this by running a small flame or working further out in a regular-sized flame or working just outside the edges of the flame while you get used to moving a little faster.
My advice would be to use the Lynx as a standard mix (except for using the pin point flame -learn that flame now) until you get used to the extra heat, and then start exploring the triple mix feature. To use the Lynx as a standard mix, adjust your flame using the green and red valves, only, and just crack open the blue valve a tiny bit. To get the pin point flame, make a flame using only the red and blue valve, and have the green valve off.
Learn to adjust your flame chemistry by looking at your candles. A typical flame used to work soft glass beads might have candles that are 1/4" to 3/8" long. If your candles are 3/8" long, then white/yellow tips that are about 1-2mm would indicate a neutral flame. Longer tips that streak and feather would indicate a fuel-rich, or reducing, flame and shorter tips to no tips would indicate an oxygen-rich, or oxidizing, flame. The shorter you run your candles, the shorter you will want your tips to be. If you are running 1/4" candles or shorter, you will want there to be no tips on the ends of the candles.
It's wonderful to have such control over the flame chemistry! You are really going to have fun!