Good final images start with good lighting in the studio. The key to good lighting is large soft, diffused light sources, as close to the subject as you can get them. Go to this forum post to read more and see example images:
http://lampworketc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=249840
The hot spots you're experiencing are from a light source that's too small or too far away from the subject. As a light gets farther from an object, the reflection gets smaller and the shadows get harder. This is what we see in full hard sunlight. Instead we want the effect of a fog bank surrounding the glass bead to diffuse the light as much as possible.
Good Exposures: It's best to learn how to get correct exposures at the camera stage by using manual exposure, not auto exposure, aperture priority or shutter priority exposure modes. By using a correct manual exposure, you'll get consistent exposures over time as long as the lights don't move more than an inch or two once they're set in place. Also, Photoshop can only correct a certain amount of under or overexposure. If the photo is severely under exposed and we try to fix that in Photoshop, we get strange colors and too much contrast. If the photo is severely overexposed, the highlights will blow out to white and Photoshop cannot bring back the detail in those areas.
Color Correction: Use a tiny piece/corner (1/4") of a 18% gray card and set it in a corner of the photo. When the photo is opened in Photoshop or Elements, go the Levels Command (PS: Image > Image Adjustments > Levels). Click on the middle gray eyedropper to activate. Click on the gray card in the photo with the Eye Dropper and the photo is globally color corrected to neutral. Crop out the gray card after color correcting the photo.
Exposure Correction: If the photo is under or overexposed, the histogram will be missing parts on either the right or left sides, and tells you the image needs a little help. With the Levels command window still open, move either the black upward pointing arrow on the left side of the upper area to the right to darken the darker tones in the image and/or move the white upward pointing arrow on the right side of the upper area to the left to lighten the lighter tones in the image. Use the middle upward pointing arrow to lighten or darken the middle tones in the photo by sliding it left or right until the image looks right. The Brightness/Contrast command sliders do not give you any histogram feedback and should not be used for lightening or darkening an image.
If you're interested in taking a class in photography or photoshop for beads, jewelry or glass, go here: dougbaldwinphoto.com/classes.html