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Old 2009-05-21, 8:25pm
NMLinda NMLinda is offline
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Join Date: Nov 21, 2008
Location: Herndon, VA
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[quote=FyreFiend;2504300]Zinc. Why is it that the most fun stuff is the dangerous stuff?????
QUOTE]

Another great question! What I liked about Sue's, too, is that I would have done the same thing as you, her, and anyone else - I'd have just dove in without realizing I needed to think about the composition of the key and probably got the same surprise as you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by FyreFiend View Post
I have one of Lowe's Best over-the-stove type range hoods, hung approximately 24 inches over my glass table. It's vented out to the greenhouse. (We finished the vent system in the wintertime, and have to finish venting the next room. I would post the picture of it, but I have no idea how to do that).
I don't know much about Lowe's line, but, if your hood is 30" long and you haven't added any sides to enclose it, you'll need a minimum of 625 cm of fan capability (2.5' x 2' x 125 = 650 cfm) - more if you have any bends or appreciable lengths of ducting into the green house, and WAY more if you're using flexible ducting. The only commercially available kitchen fan I've seen that even comes close to that is one that Dale M. had posted a link to a while back. It had 900 cfm.

Since your key burned for a minute or two, it had to have had a fairly thick coating - and released a significant amount of potentially toxic fumes.

Your experience is valuable in that it seems very wise to remove any coating on a key, first, regardless of the type of base metal, and if working on brass keys, make sure you have superb ventilation and maybe also the right fume-blocking face mask.

I personally like how the antique iron key/bead combinations look, rust and all, but folks who prefer brass or a more metallic looking finish might want to mask the bead off and plate after the fact. That would at least minimize exposure to any potential problematic fumes.

Glad your ok, Desa!

Linda
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