Implosions and the color green

[SELSEY]

Okay, I'm getting frustrated. I had read a thread that talked about trouble with greens in implosions. I've searched the threads and cannot find it again. I purchased Ron's tutorial and have started playing with florals. I would like to be able to use some greens as leaves or stems.

I've read some older threads that talk about greens not to use but most of those threads date back to 2007 and 2008. I know that there have been alot of new colors since then so here's the question. What the updated advice on colors that will work well in implosions?

Thanks!

[Baywinger]

I implode greens all the time for leaves and stems, I have no isues with them.
what greens are you using?

[BellaBean]

I use NS Experimental green #5. I put it over white and pull a stringer.

[Bunyip]

I'd suggest you talk to Ron himself. In fact, if you have any concerns regarding colors or techniques mentioned in his tutorials, I'd definitely suggest contacting him - he is VERY knowledgable. I've not purchased his implosion tutorials (saw the demos in person ), but he has been very helpful to me in the past when I've had concerns, or tried to troubleshoot problems.

The colors that tend to be difficult in deep encasement are the chrome greens and the sparkles, as they can experience COE shift when reduced or over-worked (which can be easy to do by mistake). They are at their worst in large, concentrated pieces, when reduced, or over-worked - but even over annealing can be touchy. One way to avoid concentrations is to make canes, such encasing clear with green striping green on another color etc...

There are some chrome greens which are pretty well behaved, and some that are not chrome colors at all... I don't use much green at present so I am not all that up on them - however I do hear good things about that experimental green... But first - talk to Ron!

[gmkcpa]

I've been using NS Forest Green for several years
For the leaves on my flower implosions. Never a problem!

[Jngljnke]

I've had plenty of luck with GA Clover.

[menty666]

Elan/Borostix briefly made an OG Green replication that works well for me in implosions. Keep in mind, you're thinning it while you're stretching it in the glass. If you were to use a chunk of whatever green's been working, you'd possibly see different results.

[Hangs Well]

Glasstronics!

[R4GlassStudio]

Hi Everyone!
Please remember that once you have a tutorial from me, it opens communications on ALL glass topics. If there are ever any questions, I am happy to answer.

Greens have always been a topic for inside work, implosions or under heavy encasement.
For leaf patterns in implosions, I like Northstar OLD Moss 21 striped with Northstar 98 Lochness. Just about every (more than 95%) of the implosion flower marbles I have made in the past 2 years used that color combo.
Now that Moss is no longer available, my new favorite color combo for leaves is
Northstar Jade 11, striped with Northstar 131 English Ivy. These two colors together are safe 100% inside. Plus they look really good together. If you want to darken it a touch, add a THIN flat stipe of Onyx on the Jade... or even encase the Jade with a thin layer. I like stripes in my implosions, so adding two thin stripes of Onyx along with the English Ivy is what I would prefer.
Momka also makes a Pearl Green and a New "Sparkly Green" which both work well. Stripes of Northstar Teal 52 add nice color to the patterns too. NS 53, Forest Green has been formulated a few times over the years and also provides good results inside.
***do some testing ***
Working style and flame settings DO have an effect on glass.
Best example came from the Chinese Scallop tubing. Pieces were being made and even
annealed that would fall apart a week later. Or, more drastic, when a goblet top was made and set aside to air cool... it could shatter a few minutes later. During testing to find out what was going on, we found reduction type flames or neutral flames that were closer to the reduction flame type would mess with greens. We made Goblets, ornaments and Glass Pens all from the same tubes that created problems, but using an oxy flame. Most of all, NOT flame annealed in a reduction flame. Those pieces are now over 5 years old and are still in one piece. AND... never annealed to boot! Each piece was air cooled and not even put under fiber blanket.
This is what brings people to so much confusion about green glass. NS Lochness can be
finicky for some flame types. Kick up the oxy and try it again. Or... switch over to the Jade and Ivy colors where you will be safe for any flame setting.
I don't have a lot of pictures of the backs of Marbles. But here are a few. Moss 21 with 98 Lochness.


This next one on the left is solid Moss leaves and the one on the right is solid Lochness leaves. I don't have any pictures of the Jade and Ivy version, but I would be happy to make one and post it in the next day or so.


Hope this helps,
Ron

[Cosmo]

I actually have been liking GA Amazon Night as a green in implosions. It never cracks and produces an interesting green.

[Bunyip]

I have plenty of OG moss. Gonna have to remember to reserve it for leafies. Good stuff.

[SELSEY]

Wow! Great information, thanks so much. Ron, I'm really enjoying your tutorial but do have a few questions that I will e-mail you with.

[AuntD]

Originally Posted by Cosmo

I actually have been liking GA Amazon Night as a green in implosions. It never cracks and produces an interesting green.

I love the Amazon Night green in implosions! I've been able to induce some checking, but I suspect I'm just one of those Very Special Children. Also, I think there were some reduction issues with the torch I was using then.

[Firebrand Beads]

FWIW the TAG Mighty Moss has been safely, repeatedly, deeply imploded.