Working Boro on the Cheap

glassdog · #1 2010-09-19, 7:53am

I have been working boro now for 39 years. What I have learned in that time is that lampworking is creative art form. Not only in the items produced but in the methods and tools used to produce them. With some simple understanding of the principles or physics of glass, and a goal in mind as for the finished product, its only a matter of logistics for it to come together.

Fire is fire. The cost of the torch you are using does not make any differance. I have used some of the most expensive out there but I always go back to my old welding torch. Runing on propane and oxy. An old welding torch can be picked up at a flea market for $20 to $50 dollars. Shoot , go to Lowes and buy a new one for $150.

To work boro in an effective manner, a pre mix torch is required. ie a welding torch. I use a Nortel major/ minor combonation for my soft glass, but when it comes to boro, it just does not have the kick or control I get with my pre mix torch.

More to come later. We will get into home made tools and processes

Suestress · #2 2010-09-19, 8:33am

How incredibly generous of you to share your knowledge. I'm looking forward to your next segment on home made tools! I feel like a kid waiting for Christmas!

BTW - I would also like to thank you for your tutorials on your website. I love your work

berningglass · #3 2010-09-19, 8:43am

i really like where this thread is headed, although i think this "To work boro in an effective manner, a pre mix torch is required." might be a little misleading.
i've made a large portion of my tools racks and other shop stuff at a fraction of the price it woulda cost, and i'd prefer to use a tll i made that a bought tool anyday.

glassdog · #4 2010-09-19, 8:59am

berningglass,
maybe i should have use a differant word than "effective". a better statement would have been: To work boro with the most control, a pre mix torch is required.

Mr. Smiley · #5 2010-09-19, 11:15am

I don't think there's a better torch than a premix for clear... but when it comes to color, you simply can't get the same results with a premix... not with all colors... flame chemistry is vital to some/ if not all of my work... I am a home made tool maker though... and i use my national premix on clear... cobalts and such too... they're definitely hot as can be and cheap.

glassdog · #6 2010-09-19, 11:36am

Mr. Smiley is right. A lot of boro colors are sensitive to flame chemistry, requiring a surface mix torch. But my experiance is in the shape of the glass. Not so much the color. I use a surface mix when I use a color that needs it, but 90% of the colors I use dont require it.
A single candle premix torch allows for better heat control along with precise flame contact.

tweeky clothespin · #7 2010-09-19, 12:03pm

Um . . . what? I am totally confused. I started with boro, because I got a bunch for free. I knew nothing about glass (and still don't). I got a minor because I didn't know . . . well anything. I have been having some issues and I believe I need a different torch. I have a larger one that I was told would be better for my needs but the one (and only) time I had it hooked up and burning I could smell unburnt fuel. I think it may have a leak somewhere or perhaps I am an idiot. Either way, I disconnected it and went back to the minor. Money is always an issue, so where do I go from here? Did any of that make sense?
Tweeky

glassdog · #8 2010-09-19, 2:40pm

Tweeky,
Sorry to have confused you. You are doing fine. Knowing nothing sometimes is the best. hehe...
Your minor is a surface mix torch. The gas and oxy do not mix untill they come out the end of the torch. A pre mix torch is one that mixes the gas and oxy befor it leaves the tip.
The differance is that the pre mix is hotter.
Most surface mix have more than one candle, or opening at the tip. The pre mix that I like is one with only one hole, there by having only one candle.
With only one candle you have a very precise flame for placing heat right where you want it.
The surface mix is a more bushy flame and is used for more general overall heat. Although some precision can be achieved with the surface mix.
In the work I do, scuptural in nature, I prefer the precision of the premix, for heat control.

As for you smelly torch. Try hooking it back up and spraying it down with soapy water, including all your hoses and regulators. That way you will find the leak. Some times when a propane gets very low, about to run out low, it will smell. it seems that the odor kind of settles to the bottom of the tank and comes out all at once when the tank gets low.
By all means find the source of the smell befor proceeding.

TheSilicaForge · #9 2010-09-19, 3:06pm

This sounds like it will be an amazing thread! Really looking forward to the rest of it.

Donna T. · #10 2010-09-19, 5:22pm

More please.

kirrakat123 · #11 2010-09-19, 5:50pm

Hi, I work with boro everyday, making sculptural pendants & I use a
Minor burner. It works just fine with boro glass. Thanks, Cynthia

patienthand · #12 2010-09-20, 5:08am

hmmmmmmmm... I think different torches suit different jobs and different glassblowers. I have everything form gas air burners for soft glass to premix and surface mix. Its all about what size, and temperature, and fuel mix you need for any particular job or type of glass, and how you work it.

But, I am all about home made effective tools, and doing things on the cheap.

Candice

glassdog · #13 2010-09-20, 6:38am

My most used tool is an old stainless steel butter knife. It serves as a great marver. I have modified it a little though. I have put a high tech coating on it to keep the hot glass from sticking to it. I came about the coating some what by accident. I was setting in my studio one day getting hungry. I wanted to make a peanut butter sandwich, and being the lazy person I am, I desided to use my butter knife I was using for glass. Peanut butter got all over my marver. Here again being lazy, instead of washing it off, I thought why not burn it off. Cool,,it smelled great, but now I had a film of carbon on my knife.
...back to work. I found the carbon made my knife easier to work with. So now, when ever I think about it I dip my thigh tech marver in my carbon coating solution and I'm back to work.

TheSilicaForge · #14 2010-09-20, 10:37am

That is amazing, I wonder what Kevin would think if I covered his tools in peanut butter while he is at work ...

effemess · #15 2010-09-20, 12:33pm

Ahh.. the folded wing tutorial... I keep looking at that, trying it and ending up with blobs... maybe one day

I shall watch this thread with anticipation... (just wish I knew a little of what you have forgotten about working boro)

glassdog · #16 2010-09-21, 10:01am

One of my favorite holding tools.
I was having troublel holding a round piece of glass with twizers or pliers so I set out to try to come up with something else.
Using a pair of needle nose pliers (the longer the better) I heated up the ends of them with my torch until they were red hot, then grabbed a hold of a 10 to 12 mm peace of steel and squeezed real hard till the tips were bent out.
the reapplying heat and using a small hammer I pounded the tips back together making this loopy looking shape.
It makes it real easy now to hold onto round or odd shaped stuff.
Try it I think you will like it.
Total cost about $4

fyrsmith · #17 2010-09-21, 1:03pm

I love peanut butter!! I also am a tool maker, most of the tools on my bench are modified from something else. My favorite is a beard trimmer blade held in a small hand vice that I use for raking.

Suestress · #18 2010-09-22, 6:35pm

This is exactly what I need! I cannot tell you how frustrated I have been trying to camp on to an odd shape of hot sculpture and dropping said sculpture in my lap. I know there are the tools called hot fingers, but I don't have the money to spend on them. I'm trying this out this weekend - I'm so excited!

Quote:

Originally Posted by glassdog

One of my favorite holding tools.
I was having troublel holding a round piece of glass with twizers or pliers so I set out to try to come up with something else.
Using a pair of needle nose pliers (the longer the better) I heated up the ends of them with my torch until they were red hot, then grabbed a hold of a 10 to 12 mm peace of steel and squeezed real hard till the tips were bent out.
the reapplying heat and using a small hammer I pounded the tips back together making this loopy looking shape.
It makes it real easy now to hold onto round or odd shaped stuff.
Try it I think you will like it.
Total cost about $4

glassdog · #19 2010-09-22, 7:49pm

I was searching for a holder with longer handles so I could reach inside my oven when it was hot without frying my hand. Here was a pretty good attempt at just that. I took a pair of kitchen tongs, heated them up and straightened them out. Then reshaped them into this configuration. They work real good too.
Cost about $2

metalbone · #20 2010-09-28, 7:58pm

peanut butter...that is awesome.

alb6094 · #21 2010-09-28, 8:14pm

The PB trick, I've got to try that, I use my butter knife all the time.

And it never would have occured to me to heat up cheap pliers and reform the ends and I took metalsmithing, DUH.

Thanks so much for starting this thread, I'm learning a lot!

tweeky clothespin · #22 2010-09-28, 9:10pm

I have been trying to come up with a tool for holding tubing and my Dad showed a pair of bent up needle nose plyers today. I didn't put the two together. Thanks for connecting the dots for me. I think I may have to raid Dad's 'trashed' tools.