Push pins....help on how to make them.

[Seasoned Soul]

Originally Posted by LauraLou

OMG! So awesome! You paint really well!

Is that price for a gross or per piece? It says sold by the gross, but that seems cheap for 144 of them. I wonder how much shipping is...
thanks for the link!

I was wondering the same thing...seems awful cheap for 144 but then kind of expensive per piece...maybe or maybe not.

[blong2001]

This is a great idea! Christmas is getting ever closer and these do look good for gifts.
The crystaltools prices are good-but shipping is outrageous!

[Ro]

I use self closing tweezers to hold mine. I usually add the pin at the end.
Ro

[GabiLoraine]

Originally Posted by jenyip

Hi Marina. No, the glass is melted directly onto the sterling silver. Yes, the sterling pin will melt if you heat it too long ... do NOT heat to glowing. Start by waving the pin in the back of the flame, then bring it closer towards you and flash it in the flame again. You will see a subtle colour change (sort of turns greyish and then shiny again), and that's about the right temperature. If the pin gets too hot it will melt. If the pin is too cold then the glass just won't stick.

In the meantime make sure your glass gather is VERY hot and then plop it directly on the just-the-right-temperature pin. Oh, don't forget to make sure that your pin has a "nub" (described somewhere in this thread).

After you stick a nub on the sterling silver pin how do you keep working on it? If I try to get the glass to round off the silver melts and the ball falls off! I've pretty much been putting the melted gather on, stretching the glass rod away until it detaches, and then with the marver squashing it in, but the results are absolute crap. I could post pictures later when I get home.

[jenyip]

Hi Gabi,

By a "nub" I mean that the sterling pin should not be perfectly round and smooth; the glass needs something to hold on to. I usually squeeze the end between a pair of pliers to flatten it--that seems to be enough. Refer back to my original post about the push pins, you will see that push pins also have a "nub", hidden underneath the plastic head.

Once the glass is on the sterling pin, concentrate the flame on the glass, and keep it away from the silver! Also try flame cutting the rod (don't "stretch it till it detaches"). It takes some juggling to keep the ball of glass round and attached.

bye - jennie

[GabiLoraine]

Originally Posted by jenyip

Hi Gabi,

By a "nub" I mean that the sterling pin should not be perfectly round and smooth; the glass needs something to hold on to. I usually squeeze the end between a pair of pliers to flatten it--that seems to be enough. Refer back to my original post about the push pins, you will see that push pins also have a "nub", hidden underneath the plastic head.

Once the glass is on the sterling pin, concentrate the flame on the glass, and keep it away from the silver! Also try flame cutting the rod (don't "stretch it till it detaches"). It takes some juggling to keep the ball of glass round and attached.

bye - jennie

Yeah I was asking mainly because my juggling was unsuccessfull and I was wondering if somehow I was doing it wrong.

[jaci]

really its easier to glue the pin ends in AFTER you make them. It gives you more creative freedom at the torch, and is easier to round out, because you dont have to worry about your heat melting your pin. I make mine on the end of a 1/16th dipped mandrel, then glue them onto any pin end i want. no fuss...

[jenyip]

Hi Gabi,

Jaci is right, it is possible to do the end-of-the-mandrel trick and glue the pin in afterwards.

But, if you want to continue with making glueless lampwork pins then I have some suggestions:
- start out trying to balance a ball of glass on the end of a mandrel a la Jaci. Dip the mandrel in bead release as normal and then make your bead on the very end of the mandrel. This is a great way to learn how to "juggle" your glass. You will learn how to wrap/plop the glass onto the mandrel, and how to round it out. Concentrate the heat on the glass and not on the mandrel. Don't forget to take the bead out of the flame, rounding it outside of the flame.

- while you are trying to round out the glass imagine that you are making a bead, the difference is that the bead only has one hole, and you have to imagine the other hole. Many of the techniques that you have learnt as a beadmaker are applicable, though you may have to adjust them slightly when making pins (one-holed beads).

- even if you are not interested in making push pins, save the silver and do your practising on push pins. Whenever I am developing a new design I try it out first on a push pin shaft. It's cheap and quite similar technique-wise to making an ear stud. Only when I am reasonably happy with a design do I start trying it out on sterling silver posts.

- when you do start working with silver, just flash the pin in the flame. I keep hammering on about the subtle colour change (grey then silver), I realised yesterday that this happens in less than a second. It doesn't take long at all to warm up.

- the biggest difference "artistically" between a bead and a push pin/ear stud is that you usually see the side (non-hole end) of a bead; with a push pin (etc) the focus is on what is effectively the end of a bead, where the hole would be.

Also, I've discovered that push pins are *the* most useful way to make colour samples. Make your push pin, note the colours that you have used. Write this info on a small piece of cardboard, push the pin through the cardboard, add a dab of glue to keep card and pin together, and then pin the lot to a corkboard.

[Seasoned Soul]

I'm having so much fun with these push pins... pics coming soon.

Thanks jenyip!!! I "built" the mandrels, "smashed" the plastic off the original push pin (that wasn't hard to do at all) and have been busy making p-pins. It really is super easy, especially for beginners. My only problem is staying with one "theme" or style to get a SET. After I make 2-3 I'm ready to try something different.

[GabiLoraine]

Originally Posted by jenyip

Hi Gabi,

Jaci is right, it is possible to do the end-of-the-mandrel trick and glue the pin in afterwards.

But, if you want to continue with making glueless lampwork pins then I have some suggestions:
- start out trying to balance a ball of glass on the end of a mandrel a la Jaci. Dip the mandrel in bead release as normal and then make your bead on the very end of the mandrel. This is a great way to learn how to "juggle" your glass. You will learn how to wrap/plop the glass onto the mandrel, and how to round it out. Concentrate the heat on the glass and not on the mandrel. Don't forget to take the bead out of the flame, rounding it outside of the flame.

- while you are trying to round out the glass imagine that you are making a bead, the difference is that the bead only has one hole, and you have to imagine the other hole. Many of the techniques that you have learnt as a beadmaker are applicable, though you may have to adjust them slightly when making pins (one-holed beads).

- even if you are not interested in making push pins, save the silver and do your practising on push pins. Whenever I am developing a new design I try it out first on a push pin shaft. It's cheap and quite similar technique-wise to making an ear stud. Only when I am reasonably happy with a design do I start trying it out on sterling silver posts.

- when you do start working with silver, just flash the pin in the flame. I keep hammering on about the subtle colour change (grey then silver), I realised yesterday that this happens in less than a second. It doesn't take long at all to warm up.

- the biggest difference "artistically" between a bead and a push pin/ear stud is that you usually see the side (non-hole end) of a bead; with a push pin (etc) the focus is on what is effectively the end of a bead, where the hole would be.

Also, I've discovered that push pins are *the* most useful way to make colour samples. Make your push pin, note the colours that you have used. Write this info on a small piece of cardboard, push the pin through the cardboard, add a dab of glue to keep card and pin together, and then pin the lot to a corkboard.

::worships at feet::

PPP, then?

[jenyip]

Lynn & Gabi: you're welcome! Yes, PPP is the deal. Post pics!

[Seasoned Soul]

okay let's remember... 1) NEWWWBIE...2) FUN and not Perfection!

So here are my Push Pins. Each one is part of an 8 piece set. I told you I was having fun. I decided to stop playing around though and at least make "sets" just in case I wanted to give them as gifts or something.


The bat and pumpkin are two of an 8 piece set

[Lara]

Lynn, those are great!

[jenyip]

Well done Lynn! Love the spirals!

[Seasoned Soul]

Originally Posted by jenyip

Well done Lynn! Love the spirals!

Thanks jenyip!!! Just what I needed... a break from making donuts..grin*

[Carolyn Hipskind]

Is there another way to clean the metal push pin after it's been annealed other than a tumbler? I've tried a couple ways - a silver cleaner & plastic scouring pad.......no luck. Don't have a tumbler. Thanks, Carolyn

[jaci]

That is why I make them on the ends of 1/16th mandrels ( w/ bead release) and glue in "T" pins that I cut the top off of. No fuss with cleaning.

[jhana]

Originally Posted by jaci

That is why I make them on the ends of 1/16th mandrels ( w/ bead release) and glue in "T" pins that I cut the top off of. No fuss with cleaning.

Smart.

[CSimi115]

Ebay has loads of the Victrola needles.

[Moth]

I only read the first page, then jumped to the last page, so sorry if this has been mentioned earlier. I've been using sequin pins for mine.

I hold them with a pin vise. I started using sequin pins because I was trying to make doll eyes and wanted a really sharp, short point. One day, I stuck all the eyes in the cork board in my kitchen so they would quit rolling off the counter and they looked really cool. All those eyeball pushpins. LOL

So, I started making push pins on purpose just for fun. They've been a big hit with myself and my family. I just give them away. I know these are more artistic than regular old cheapo pushpins, but they are still an item that isn't an heirloom quality thing. Basically they are an office supply. People expect them to get lost or bent from trying to poke them into something too hard.

The sequin pins are stainless steel (mine are vintage I bought at an estate sale in a crap ton box of OLD sequins) and they haven't rusted as far as I've seen. If it takes 5 years for them to rust--so what. They're pushpins. LOL They're fun and then they're gone.

~~Mary

[Ari'elle]

Mary, is the thickness of the sequin pins the same thickness of regular pushpins or thinner? I found some on ebay but it doesn't say what the thickness is.

http://cgi.ebay.com/100-Gram-Box-Sil...item5adaf9c1b3

[Ari'elle]

Darn, the box says steel but they're nickel plated. Gotta keep looking.

[Moth]

Ari'elle, mine are thinner, but they are really stiff. They feel completely different than the sewing pins I have...which are bendy. Please keep in mind that mine are at least 30 years old as best as I can tell. They were in a 'rough around the edges' cardboard box that said stainless sequin pins in old victorian looking print. I'm sure they are way older than 30 years but I can't prove it. The box was in a trunk and wrapped in felt. The whole box of pins and the sequins were in a big plastic bag in a trunk. There isn't any rust on the pins, but I still believe they are steel.

After I posted my last message I did a search on where to buy stainless sequin pins now and I can't find any suppliers I would trust. Most of the ones I have found come up in a search for stainless steel sequin pins, but when you read the description they are actually nickel plated, like what you found.

If I had known how difficult it would be to find stainless sequin pins NOW, I probably would have kept my mouth shut about them because what I'm using is useless if you can't find them to purchase. LOL

Sorry if I've led you on a wild goose chase.
~~Mary

[Ari'elle]

No goose chase, just another avenue to check out. I've actually gotten a couple of ideas for another project other than push pins while doing my search, lol.

[Moth]

Check these out, they are a little long, but you could nip off however much of the unsharpened end that you want to make them any size. Not sure how stiff they are, but I do believe they are real stainless steel since they come from a lab work category.

http://www.benmeadows.com/BIOQUIP-Insect-Pins_31222431/

You can choose from 4 different sizes, but the description says they are all about 1.5" long, which leads me to believe the size difference is in the gauge of the wire itself. So that is good...just pick the thickest one. These are what I will buy when I run out anyway. In about 12 years. LOL

[Ari'elle]

Thanks Mary, I'll check it out!

[Carolyn Hipskind]

FactoryDirectCraft.com
They have 1/2" Silver Sequin Pins (500 pcs. for $1.29) #38041
I emailed them about a month ago & asked what metal they were made of; didn't ask the gauge of wire. They replied within 24hrs. & said they were stainless steel.
I didn't order as I'm using push pins I bought at the dollar store that stated they're stainless. They have a clear plastic head I cut off with my side cutters in about two cuts. They are 5/8", do not melt in the torch if I don't overheat, they don't give off smoke but discolor in the flame & when they are annealed. Soaking in Pickle removed some but not all of discoloration. I made decorative heads on the end of a 1/16th mandrel, cleaned out bead release, dried, mixed 2 part epoxy, insert above pin, tried to stand them up to dry.....I'll check them out in the morning. Taking a more relaxed view and giving them away or selling them priced as fancy "office supplies" seems a lot less complicated than either of the above two ways. Dispite all of that, I enjoy both making, looking and using them.

[Joyce T]

Don't remember who suggested it (I'm sure it was here, though; and it works). Just buy the cheapo plastic push pins, grab a hammer, and work out a bit of anger 'making' your own. (You have to hold the pin in some pliers, and brace it against something you can't smash -- like an anvil or something -- and be sure to wear safety glasses.) If you're as challenged as I am, I suggest doing it well away from anyone or anything you hold dear (unless of course, you're one of those organized people who can work in a small, enclosed space like a box), because the plastic tends to fly hard and fast when it gets shattered, and if you're a bit off kilter and loose your grip on the pin, it does too. It takes a bit of practice, but it works.

[artsyuno]

If you hold them in a pin vise, instead of pliers, you'll eliminate the risk of flying pins.

[lindacw]

I did two boxes of 300 pins in a relatively short time smashing the clear plastic tops off. I also just bought some thumb tacks and was able to heat them up and apply the glass to the entire top of the tack. Worked like a dream and NO smashing plastic !!!