plyers/holders dichroic strips etc

PatsyEmporium · #1 2013-09-06, 12:32pm

what kind of (which type of metal) do you guys use when you're working with strips and milifori etc, they are in contact with the glass and in the flame for a long time (!?) I want to buy some strips etc but I'm scared to death they're just gonna fuse with whatever I'm holding them with.
Also, about how many dichroic strips would be in a 1 oz package (1/4" width)? is it 1 strip? I dont feel comfortable paying that when I'm just learning I know I'm gonna destroy atleast 5 strips when i start. Is they're a reasonably priced way to practice working with dichroic strips?
thanks

silverlilly1 · #2 2013-09-06, 12:39pm

Don't know how to answer most of your questions, but my first dichro was a 1 oz scrap packet from Arrow Springs for $6. I just bought more (for the first time) but I haven't used it much, and still have over half of the first packet.

PatsyEmporium · #3 2013-09-06, 1:04pm

is this what i would use to apply murrini/milefiori? http://www.frantzartglass.com/index....oducts_id=4552
can i heat it up with these in the flame before applying to the base bead?

silverlilly1 · #4 2013-09-06, 1:34pm

I don't know what other people do, but I warm my murrini NEAR the flame, not in it. For this, regular hardware store needle nose pliers work fine for me.

Or I hold it on top of a graphite paddle under the flame. Not the easiest method, and if you're using them all the time you might consider plackng them on a torch top marver instead, but it works for my purposes.

julieann1674 · #5 2013-09-06, 2:01pm

I use these, Third Hand Tweezers and the Tooki Tweezers without worry of heat.

bob · #6 2013-09-06, 2:02pm

What Mellisa said, I also use regular needle nose pliers. I do dip them in water to cool them down.
Bob

Kalorlo · #7 2013-09-06, 2:45pm

Needlenose pliers here too. They can stand up to being in the flame for a short time if absolutely necessary, but really you don't want to be doing that. You don't need to for dichro or murrini. You want to warm dichro up gently and direct the heat at the (clear-)coated side only, then get it onto a hot area of the bead as fast as possible. Once you have it attached in one place, you can gently melt the rest on more slowly. For murrini, again heat the place on the bead you want them to go, warm the murrini up a little at the edge or top of the flame, apply to hot spot and then melt and pat down at your leisure. You shouldn't have glowing plier ends doing either of those.

allicat · #8 2013-09-06, 4:39pm

You can also grab an old George Foreman grill, and warm your murrini on it (and whatever else you might want to warm up, such as rods, inclusions, etc). Gets hot enough to keep them from shattering when introduced to the flame.

HTH
Alli

jaci · #9 2013-09-06, 7:38pm

I put mine in or on the kiln and then just grab them with whatever I happen to have, tweezers, pliers, forceps.. I have had the forceps fuse to the glass a time or two, but usually just letting them cool out of the flame is enough to seperate them, when in doubt I just water bath them. Usually a good tap and some cooling is all they ever need. You want to try and keep your tools out if direct flame.

EchoTantuli · #10 2013-09-08, 2:18pm

I use large fine point tweezers. Your tweezers should never be in the flame, work under, or heat and move to the side to work with tools. I attach the strip using the pointing end near the bottom of the strip, but let gravity do the rest, using the other side of my (flat joint end) tweezers to push after I warm it. If that makes any sense?

alb6094 · #11 2013-09-08, 3:35pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by allicat

You can also grab an old George Foreman grill, and warm your murrini on it (and whatever else you might want to warm up, such as rods, inclusions, etc). Gets hot enough to keep them from shattering when introduced to the flame.

HTH
Alli

Same here but I have space considerations so I use a Mr. Coffee coffee warmer, about $10 at Target.