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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #1  
Old 2010-06-18, 5:15am
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beadsoncypress beadsoncypress is offline
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A mini-cc will only allow you to make small boro anythings....unless you have the patience of a saint. If I were you I would master heat control with soft glass before moving "up" to boro. (Also I find boro to be more expensive than soft but it does have it's good points, harder, color array, etc). All glass is good, remember Lauscha does not always play nice with other 104's/.
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  #2  
Old 2010-06-18, 7:40am
TBC Beads TBC Beads is offline
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I'd stick with the 104s, and then only one brand, for a while. Like Susan said, work on mastering heat control first, then get basic techniques down pat. Once you do that, the switch to boro work should be a breeze.

Also, you may get a better response ("better" only in terms of number of people who post with some hints, not meaning better quality) if you post your questions in the Tips, Techniques and Questions room. That's the place people specifically look for questions and issues they can help with.
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  #3  
Old 2010-06-18, 7:46am
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If you're a beginner, learn one glass first before you move on. You need to learn to read the glass without all the fancy tools available first. When you feel like you really understand 104 then move on if you want but learn it first.
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  #4  
Old 2010-06-18, 9:43am
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Lisi Lisi is offline
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The other three said it, and I'll say the same thing. Just the basics first and for a while it's best to stick to them. It's a long journey but it's going to be a joyful one along the way! It's even more fun if you don't rush into all the advanced stuff right away. I remember my newbie days from 7 years ago almost like it was yesterday and I wouldn't change anything I did in my learning process. BTW - That's an awesome set-up you have! I started out with a HH for 18 months before I got my Mini CC and oxy generator. So you have there a set-up that has plenty of heat that will make you happy for a long time.

A little something about the Mini CC that makes it a little different from other small torches in its class - the flame is softer, bushier and a lot of "radiant heat" emits from it. Meaning that the area just outside the flame is warm and this is good for sculptural work. The radiant heat keeps parts warm while you are working on them so it doesn't shatter. Example - I made a 30mm rose with petals that I pre-made and kept warm on a coffee cup warmer, and these were attached to a large barrel shaped bead one by one. Never shocked in the flame. It's a wonderful torch.

Another poster in another thread had mentioned staying away from the silver glasses for a while. In my opinion, those are very expensive and until you understand flame chemistry and how to adjust the oxy/propane knobs to get a certain effect from the glass, you would be seriously wasting it.

Along with the goody box I'm sending, I will send you a color blend of a 104 COE frit that I have, plus a few other furnace glass frits I have that I know work well with 104 COE and compatibility.

Oh, no rush on shaping tools other than a small 2x3 inch graphite paddle, and maybe a pair of mashers and a tungsten poker tool and tungsten rake for now. You want to first learn how you make your basic and traditional round bead shape. The "chubby donut" is your basic shape, like the beads I make.
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  #5  
Old 2010-06-21, 12:59am
ShellyJo1969 ShellyJo1969 is offline
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Thanks everyone, I'll take your advice and get to know the soft glass very well first. I have a rake, small masher, a graphite paddle and a marver on top of my torch, can't wait to use them!

Lisi, you're so sweet, thanks!
Michele
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