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  #31  
Old 2007-09-15, 7:16am
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Thanks so much for the beautiful tutorial!! I've never tried it and it looks like a lot of fun!!
I hope this doesn't sound entirely stupid but do you draw thru the hole once? or do you draw thru the hole and then go down and draw it thru the next smaller hole? etc?? Is it a gradual decrease in size or once you draw thru the plate you're at the correct size?? Now I'm confusing myself!!! LOL
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  #32  
Old 2007-09-15, 4:50pm
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wow... very, very cool!!! i am going to have to try this. i just love it. thank you so much for posting this. hehe.. if i can do it i will for sure be looking to get some of your wonderfull end caps. wow nice!!

so... what gauge wire was that anyway?
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  #33  
Old 2007-09-16, 11:46am
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And another question... is there a rule of thumb for how much wire it takes to make a given length of chain? Looping, say a 6 foot length of wire sounds tedious,especially if say 3 feet would be enough, but you'd certainly not want to come up short!
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  #34  
Old 2007-09-19, 12:29pm
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Default regarding the block...

I notice the block the knit is pulled through has several holes. How do you determine which size of hole the knit should be pulled though? Does the hole size correspond to the dowel size in any way?

Thanks for the great tutorial!
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  #35  
Old 2007-09-19, 1:46pm
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I think (and I AM guessing here) you start with the largest hole and pull through progressively smnaller holes till you have the size you want!
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I notice the block the knit is pulled through has several holes. How do you determine which size of hole the knit should be pulled though? Does the hole size correspond to the dowel size in any way?

Thanks for the great tutorial!
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  #36  
Old 2007-09-19, 8:19pm
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I recieved the viking knit kit in the mail from Rocio and its great! You have everything to get started including some copper wire. I thought about making my own drawplate, but Im glad now that I didnt.
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  #37  
Old 2007-09-19, 8:36pm
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When did you order your kit? I ordered mine last Thurs and still didn't get it. I already got something I ordered after I ordered the kit.
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  #38  
Old 2007-09-21, 11:58am
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I'm gonna have to try this! That is saying a lot for someone who doesn't like to make jewelry.
Just ordered a kit from Rocio so we will see how it goes.
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  #39  
Old 2007-09-21, 1:18pm
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I hope mine comes soon!
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  #40  
Old 2007-09-23, 1:40pm
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Default ah ha...

Quote:
Originally Posted by danelady View Post
I think (and I AM guessing here) you start with the largest hole and pull through progressively smnaller holes till you have the size you want!
that makes sense. I should probably just order the kit and all will be revealed!
Thanks!
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  #41  
Old 2007-09-23, 11:10pm
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I got my kit but it doesn't come with any instructions and I am still wondering about some of these same things: What guage of silver wire works best for the dowel provided in the kit, how long should the wire be for each inch of finished knit, and are the different holes for different guages of wire?
Thanks!
Lisa
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  #42  
Old 2007-09-24, 8:24pm
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Lisa I still don't have my kit. So I'm not exactly what your questions are. Try checking the jewelry room. There is a really good thread with lots of info.
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  #43  
Old 2007-09-26, 3:12pm
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I ordered some copper and I will finally get to try this. Wish me luck, I may need it! LOL!
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  #44  
Old 2007-09-30, 5:49pm
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Thanks, Nancy. I just got around to checking this thread again because I'm all set to give this a try now. I'm off to the jewelry room!
Lisa
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  #45  
Old 2007-09-30, 6:38pm
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24g wire works well. I've used SS dead soft and colored copper wire and they all do well. The Copper is a bit easier to use. My rod is about 9 or 10 inches and is a little under 1/2 inch.
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  #46  
Old 2007-10-01, 10:41pm
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Is sterling silver or fine silver better to use for this?
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  #47  
Old 2007-10-10, 1:37pm
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ok.... Too many threads to follow.
Wire 24g pure silver or sterling Dead soft.
Pulling through holes..... really is up to the look your going for. The two largest holes will fit the Viking Knit Caps.
If I missed any questions, PM me. Some orders were held up waiting on another sterling silver order to come in. At this time, we don't have any back orders and everything has shipped. If anyone needs caps or slides, we have a few thousand of each type... but we have no idea how long that will last. It could be a week or two months. Viking Knit is growing in demand so we don't have a feel for inventory levels yet. Right now we increased it by 4 times hoping to keep up.
Thanks,
Ron and Rocio
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  #48  
Old 2007-10-18, 7:45pm
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OK I have had a hard time getting my stitchs the same size. One is farther away from the next stitch than the others will that tighten down when I draw or do I need to make sure that it is even.
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  #49  
Old 2007-10-22, 7:35am
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Thanks for sharing,
Ana María
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  #50  
Old 2007-10-26, 7:02am
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Great thread and tutorial, thanks!
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  #51  
Old 2007-11-15, 5:16pm
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Thanks for the tutoria! I tried it last night and the husband was amazed with the finished product. Now he wants me to make him a necklace.

Thanks Again.
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  #52  
Old 2008-01-25, 4:59am
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Wow, this is cool! So this can be used for bracelets, necklaces, right? Can you attach your beads to it? Or does it look better just plain?
-Patti
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  #53  
Old 2008-01-29, 5:59pm
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Just wanted to say that I got Rocio's kit and was off and running! I love the way the Viking knit looks and it is so easy to cut and piece into things. Here's a picture of a bracelet and a necklace I made. The only problem I had was that all of the holes in Rocio's board were too small for my knitted strand to fit through, so I started through a larger hole I made and then worked my way down to the smaller ones.



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  #54  
Old 2008-02-19, 9:02pm
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This is so beautiful and I may just have to give it a try. Rocio's kit is inexpensive enough, but I hate to waste good money on sterling wire to get it down right. Anyone have a suggestion for wire to practice on that will still reduce like the sterling does? I'll be back with questions later about how to finish them off, and also like how to get the center focal bead attached as in Lisa's bracelet.
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  #55  
Old 2008-02-19, 9:56pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barbbbeads View Post
This is so beautiful and I may just have to give it a try. Rocio's kit is inexpensive enough, but I hate to waste good money on sterling wire to get it down right. Anyone have a suggestion for wire to practice on that will still reduce like the sterling does? I'll be back with questions later about how to finish them off, and also like how to get the center focal bead attached as in Lisa's bracelet.
I used 26 gauge copper wire that I found at Joann's to make my first weave, it was around 3.00 for 30 feet which gave me 20 inches of knit done on a 1/2 inch dowel. I pulled it down progressively through drilled holes that were
1/2", 3/8", 1/4 ", 5/16", and 7/32". This gave me 34"'s of a finished weave from the original 20 inches. This makes a necklace with a nice diameter, but I prefer a larger diameter for my bracelets.

My next weave was done with sterling, soft, 24 gauge again on a 1/2 inch dowel. For my purposes I can't imagine that I would ever need another size dowel since you pull down anyway. I don't know how much wire I used because it was on a leftover spool of silver I had. This time, I only pulled the weave down 2 sizes to the 1/4" which I love for a bracelet, I'm going to cut off what I need for a few bracelets and then continue to pull what's left down further for a necklace.

Here are some things that I learned and improved on from my first to my second knit...

I probably will mostly use 24g or 22g wire, but use the thinner 26 for the first try.

When you make your start up flower petal, it IS important to keep this as perfectly spaced as possible, I'm very pickly and kept my rows as perfectly straight and evenly spaced all the way down the dowel. This made a big difference in the appearance of my second weave as opposed to my second silver knit.

Weave your little E's looser than you would think, it makes it easier to get behind your weave with the wire and you can work alot faster.

Don't forget to put your soft flex in your weave BEFORE you pull down and make it quite a bit longer than the knit will be when you pull it down. If you don't, it will be very hard to try and pull your stringing material through the knit when it's tight.

I was surprised at how little waste wire there was, just tiny little snips.

Hope this helps a bit.
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  #56  
Old 2008-02-20, 12:59am
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I'm really struggling to understand how you finish the ends of this knit? any chance someone could give a brief idiots guide to finishing off viking knit?
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  #57  
Old 2008-08-07, 3:22am
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I was wondering the same thing.
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  #58  
Old 2009-06-05, 2:16pm
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How do you finish the ends off?
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  #59  
Old 2009-06-05, 2:34pm
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You cut off the ends at the length you want... pick off all the loose pieces. Run a stiffer piece of wire thru the "tube" formed, so an end of at least 1.5 inches sticks out each end. Cover each end with a correctly sized end cap, (run the wire thru the hole in the end cap of course) and form a wire wrapped loop on each end! That's it!
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I'm really struggling to understand how you finish the ends of this knit? any chance someone could give a brief idiots guide to finishing off viking knit?
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  #60  
Old 2009-06-05, 3:04pm
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Thank you Lynnie!!
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