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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #1  
Old 2012-12-29, 7:45am
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Default Mandrel size

I had been making every bead using 3/32 mandrels. I started using a smaller 1/16 size for earring beads and I really think they are easier to work with when making jewelry. I don't think I will go that small for large pendants but I like it for little beads. Just curious what everyone else's thoughts are.
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Old 2012-12-29, 8:03am
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I dread the thought of going back to the 1/16's as they were so small....I suppose it depends on the customers. Love to hear some thoughts too.

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  #3  
Old 2012-12-29, 8:23am
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I use 1/16" for most of my sets and 3/32" for focals. As a jewelry maker, I can relate to using bigger hole beads and having to stuff the hole with seed beads or rubber tubing. PITA!
It's also a PITA to have to replace the smaller mandrels when they get bent!
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Old 2012-12-29, 8:44am
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Interesting question! I love 1/16" mandrels but I think some of my customers like to use thick ribbons or leather cord, so I stick to 3/32" for most of my sets.
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  #5  
Old 2012-12-29, 9:42am
Robin Passovoy Robin Passovoy is offline
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I use mostly 1/16" mandrels to make beads, but still occasionally use 3/32" for larger beads. I've found that 1/4" mandrels work nicely for making dreadlock beads, and that Devardi's 1.2 mm mandrels are great for making tiny spacers and really small hollow beads. Yes, the thinner gauges bend far too easily, but they're not terribly expensive to replace, and at least with the Devardi superthins, you can just cut off a bent end.
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  #6  
Old 2012-12-29, 10:18am
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I use 1/16 mandrels almost exclusively for focals as well as smaller beads. This includes my focals that are, on average, 2-3" long by 1.5-2" wide. I think it makes them easier to use, but I also just prefer the feel and weight of smaller mandrels. I would probably go thinner if thin mandrels were readily available to me, although probably not for my focals since I am pushing my luck as it is with the 1/16s.
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Old 2012-12-29, 10:41am
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It really depends on the project, I use 1/16 and smaller for a lot of stuff and once they start to get wobbly I skip the bead release and make decorative pins.
I have a lot of wobbly ones from selling mandrels, so the seconds get used up.

3/32 are common for focal beads and I use larger hole beads work well for kumihimo ends or larger diameter rat tail, leather, hemp, and chunky designs.
I make pins with these also but leave them longer.
The larger diameter pins go over well as accents with flower arrangements and mixed media sculpture.
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  #8  
Old 2012-12-29, 12:06pm
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I use 3/32" for small beads and the next size for focals (that's around 3 mm in metrics but no idea what the equivalence is). I sell interchangeable neckrings with my beads that require at least 3/32". Plus many of my customers use leather cords.
When I design, I use seed beads or crimp beads to stuff the holes and I like it that way, it gives me more possibilities without having to choose in advance what I am going to use the beads for.
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Old 2012-12-29, 6:31pm
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I used to struggle a lot with the 1.6mm mandrels because they'd bend so easily if I wasn't really careful. But I find they're the best size for smaller beads.
I found a way to minimise the bending, and the cost, however.
I bought a few metres of 1.6 welding rods, and DH cut them to 6" each.
For me it's a great length, so I've got shorter ones that are less likely to buckle, plus I only make smallish beads on them like my gumleaves or spacer or earring beads. I use a porcelain kiln, so the length isn't a problem for me. It would be very different if I used a bead door, though, I suppose.

I probably use both width mandrels about equally, though, for focals etc, but I have no trouble whatsoever with the short skinny ones.
So, if you don't have to worry about a bead door, try short ones. It's a real boon.
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  #10  
Old 2012-12-29, 6:40pm
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I make jewelry from my beads and 3/32 hole is just too big so I went to 5/64....perfect size but couldn't find any good quality at a reasonable price until I stumbled upon them at Zoozies. Hers are terrific! Now I use them almost exclusively and no more stuffing bead holes for me. Thanks Amy!
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  #11  
Old 2012-12-29, 11:38pm
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I have used only 1/16" for most of my lampworking years, but I found that many customers prefer the beads with 3/32" mandrel holes. So I have decided to offer both...to make everyone happy.
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  #12  
Old 2012-12-30, 7:03am
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It's not the size of the mandrel that's important; it's how you use it.
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  #13  
Old 2012-12-30, 7:48am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caliente View Post
It's not the size of the mandrel that's important; it's how you use it.

Been saying that for years...
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Old 2012-12-30, 8:50am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anne Londez View Post
Been saying that for years...
Great minds think alike!

I make most of my beads on 1/16s, I only use the 3/32 for larger focals. I'd always thought the smaller hole was easier to work with, but I have had several client tell me they'd like larger holes so they could put the bead directly on the leather cord.
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Old 2012-12-30, 11:44am
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I find the 1/16 really difficult to use - it's easier for me to hold onto the slightly larger mandrels, my hands don't cramp up. Plus I'm pretty rough sometimes, and I don't seem to shatter the bead release as often on 3/32 or larger. I do seem to go through phases, though - I can't remember the last time I made a BHB, and for awhile I wasn't doing much else.
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  #16  
Old 2012-12-30, 3:56pm
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Only problem with making beads on the 3/32" mandrels is that they turn out more donut (rondelle) shaped than the ones made with the 1/16". To get them rounder I would have to cook the snot out of the glass, and that can ruin many of the colors I use.
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  #17  
Old 2013-01-07, 8:33am
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I bought some .045" from Howaco and have started using them to make small spacers. For me this is the only size that does not wobble at all. I've been very careful and have not yet (knock wood) bent or melted through any of them.
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