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  #61  
Old 2008-12-06, 1:35pm
naom-s naom-s is offline
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I found this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wfsyTn9XCsE
Naomi
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  #62  
Old 2008-12-07, 12:12am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bexrox View Post
fullajoy, your first viking knit is gorgeous! Love it in copper! I made my first the other day, in single stitch. I made two pieces and used wire-wrapped (gotta change that!) end caps too. I'll attach a pic. Can you tell me the finished diameter of yours?

As for cutting it, it shouldn't unravel, just grab the very end and wrap it tightly around another of the wires. It will be covered up by a cap.

I'd love to see more of anyone's VK, esp. double knit and any other more intricate types.

Becky
Becky, my finished diameter on that bracelet is 4.5mm.

As I mentioned I have been working on a double weave in copper (I'm up to 12 inches before drawing), using 6 branches and 24g wire. I also got the endcaps in so when I complete a necklace or bracelet I'll post a picture. I'm just seeing how long I can get it so I can snip off pieces.

I tend to like the tight weave thicker bracelet look (maybe 6 mm).

fullajoyy
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  #63  
Old 2008-12-26, 6:09pm
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Here are photos of two Viking Knit weaves I finally completed and made bracelets.

This first one is made with copper wire, 6 loops, double weave and oxidized. The lampwork beads were made by a friend, Adelle Read. It's called "For Mary". I made the bracelet to remember two special Mary's: my Mom and my friend's Mom who recently passed away. Both named Mary.

Name:  For Mary Bracelet.jpg
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My "I Dream" bracelet was designed for my daughter who a freshman in college. I am now teaching her to do Viking Knit. It is made with Vintag wire, 5 loops & double weave.

Name:  I Dream Bracelet.jpg
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I'm now working with sterling silver. I'll put a bracelet together in a couple of days.

Thanks for looking.

PS. If you like the sterling endcaps on the second bracelet I ordered plenty and would be happy to share. PM me, they come in two sizes.
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  #64  
Old 2009-01-02, 3:48pm
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I thought I would show my efforts here...This was thanks to the tutorial by Rocio fine Art.



I gave this to my Mum for her birthday with some Silver cored beads that I made.

I have done a fair bit of silver smithing so I soldered a thicker wire to the ends of my piece of chain and threaded that through some cone beads I bought form a UK company. Think I used about 3.5 metres of 0.5 or 0.6 mm wire. it made just under 7 inches when drawn down and is about 4.7mm thick. I'm not sure about any of those measurements, I made This in august, I'm just thinking of doing another one, I would be interested in the best ways of joining/adding in more wire...

Madeline
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  #65  
Old 2009-01-02, 4:31pm
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Default More Viking Knit

I've just finished 5 VK bracelets over the holidays. I'm getting better with each one I complete. I finally figured out a technique for adding wires that still allow for a smooth finished product.

The first photo is my first attempt using sterling wire. It was pulled to 6mm.

Name:  greatweave.jpg
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All of these are slightly under 5mm each. I love the finished result.

Name:  holidaydesigns.jpg
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I posted some different photos in the Jewelry section under weekly photos. They show a different side. I have enjoyed learning and improving on Viking Knit.

Happy New Year!
fullajoyy

PS. I'm trying to figure out how to best price these. They are very labor intensive. Any suggestions? I have two people interested in them, but I couldn't quote a price. I see them again on next Wednesday. Thanks for any feedback.
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  #66  
Old 2009-01-02, 7:16pm
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Heidi diynet has a video on viking knitting you might want to watch. It
really helped me. http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/na_kni...177158,00.html
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  #67  
Old 2009-02-11, 3:49pm
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Well here is my first single loop...
22g copper wire on 5/16" dowel 6 loops, 11" long just under 1/2" off dowel drawn to 1/4" and 16" long. Trying to figure out what to do took me about 2 1/2- 3 hours.

Step by Step Wire, Winter 2009 has a very good article on it that explains enough that even I could do it.
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  #68  
Old 2009-02-12, 9:13pm
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OK I tried the double loop...
Did the daisy at the top and started a single loop chain. I made an inch of single and then went to start the double.
If I count back 2 loops and go around eventually I end up with a big mess, and a single loop again.
I tried 3 times what am I missing? I can usually see a few pictures and "get it" but this excapes me.

I've looked at all the pics and videos.
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  #69  
Old 2009-02-13, 12:36am
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maybe you need to start off doing double rather than trying to change? I dont know, I'm still not sure if the one and only one I've done was a double by accident!
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  #70  
Old 2009-02-13, 12:51am
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looking at it now, its a single
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  #71  
Old 2009-02-14, 6:31am
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Girl with the draw plates for this - check my Etsy. E-mail me about not needing the instructions.
Sharon
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  #72  
Old 2009-02-14, 6:38am
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Hey, I forgot to tell you...those caps of Heathers are fantastic for this. It's what Anne Mitchell uses in her classes and Stanley and others. Rocio's end caps are nice too but don't have the lip on them. They also some in patterns though. Viking Knit is great stuff.
Sharon
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  #73  
Old 2009-02-22, 5:37pm
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Okey dokey, this was NOT something I needed to get addicted to - I already have enough things that take tons of time and more eyesight and manual dexterity than I have... But this is downright compelling, isn't it? I've only made 3 tiny (2") samples, just to check different size mandrels and different drawdowns, but I am already chomping at the bit to make something big enough to actually wear. I think this will look so cool as a necklace with a silver-cored bead on it....

Now the questions... I'm using 28 ga fine silver wire, starting with either a 3/8 or 1/4 inch metal stamp as a base (4 sided) and making four loops. Obviously it's quite a bit 'lacier' looking than the ones shown here, so I guess I want to try with more loops, though not sure how to space those out on a 4 sided stamp. My real questions are - if it's drawn through a reasonably small hole (small enough to have to work at it, not enough to have to brace my legs to pull it or anything), is that hardening it enough that I don't have to worry about it smashing flat? Or is the wire I'm using too fine to ever reach that point? I don't want to make a bracelet if it's just going to smash flat when I put my hand on the table, but I can't imagine using much thicker wire, it will kink like mad...

Also, is there a clear explanation of the double knit somewhere? The tutorial I purchased talks briefly about it, but says to do two rows of single, then a row of double - is that how double is always done, or is that just this pattern?
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  #74  
Old 2009-02-22, 9:27pm
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For the double knit, you just go up two rows, instead of one. I never use 28 gauge wire. It doesn't seem to have enough strength for me. My preference is 26 gauge and 3/8" dowel rod. I would just make sure a bracelet has more strength than say a necklace. A bracelet will be subject to more abuse.
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  #75  
Old 2009-02-23, 6:20am
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I have a 28 gauge Viking Knit 'Chain' one but I'm sure I had 8 -10 loops... big issue is the wire is so fine that the ends have all come back to life and it's a bit like wearing a cactus... will try and take a picture and post it in the next couple of days...

and I'm sure you do one row of double for every row of single I can't remember but I think you did the row of single then basically repeated it...

I don't use a dowel when I do mine though so I can add and subtract stitches at will.

I would buy heavier wire and make sure if it's silver that it is fine silver as it doesn't work harden nearly as fast as sterling! Also it doesn't tarnish like sterling does!

Lynne
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  #76  
Old 2009-02-23, 5:08pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Islandgirl View Post
I have a 28 gauge Viking Knit 'Chain' one but I'm sure I had 8 -10 loops... big issue is the wire is so fine that the ends have all come back to life and it's a bit like wearing a cactus... will try and take a picture and post it in the next couple of days...

and I'm sure you do one row of double for every row of single I can't remember but I think you did the row of single then basically repeated it...

I don't use a dowel when I do mine though so I can add and subtract stitches at will.

I would buy heavier wire and make sure if it's silver that it is fine silver as it doesn't work harden nearly as fast as sterling! Also it doesn't tarnish like sterling does!

Lynne
It is fine silver, I did know enough to do that... just bought 2 ounces of it at 28 ga though, so I guess I'll keep practicing with this for a while. Will try more loops and see how that goes. Then I guess I'll buy some 26 ga and try that out....

Thanks!
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  #77  
Old 2009-02-26, 6:31am
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I like the 24g. best. Purchase some 24 too.
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  #78  
Old 2009-03-09, 7:19pm
Marlene Marlene is offline
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Thumbs down Viking Knit

Well I guess this site is still active, has been a long discussion for a most confusing issue.
I have been sitting here with my 3/8" Alan Key, using 6 loops and a variety of wires from 24 to 28 wire in various softness and find that the Artistic wire is much softer and easier to use than the silver coloured or brass wire that comes on the spools from the local habby shop. I am not game enough to try silver yet because my work looks so uneven. I have found that if you do about 1" of single then try the double by going down two loops or rows (same stitch but down two instead of one) complete the row (ie. 6 stitches)then go back to single for three rows then do the double (down two rows instead of one)again, repeat the three rows and do a double again. The instructions that I found to be most helpful in starting were from "beadingdaily.com" and was called trichinopoly chainwork . and were written by Kathleen Pierce.

I have, over the years, printed off 6 different instructions for this stitch but have found I am no further advanced than if I started last week. How do the instructions people get their work so neat - is it that tension pays a big part in all this, hope you have better looking work than I do.

Marlene
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  #79  
Old 2009-03-09, 8:51pm
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When I first started, my rows were uneven, some were way too narrow. I found that my problem was I was pulling the wire too tightly. I loosened up on the tension. Even now, the entire time I am weaving, I have to adjust my tension to try to make all the rows as even as possible. Marlene, why don't you use fewer than 6 loops and practice getting the feel and right tension for adjusting your rows....maybe using 3-4 loops. I always use 5 loops and a double stitch..that seems to work best for me and I am always pleased with the look.
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  #80  
Old 2009-03-10, 1:21am
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Default Viking Knit

Thanks Grandma,

You will love the experience, I use Skype camera to visit my two grandchildren in Hong Kong and it is great to see them grow.
Marlene
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  #81  
Old 2009-03-10, 7:17pm
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We are so excited....it is our first grandchildren. My son and his wife live here locally, so we will see them in person as much as we can. They are pretty sure one is a boy and they think the other is a girl, but will probably know for sure at next visit in 3 weeks. I never had an ultrasound when I was pregnant (many, many years ago), so it is really fun to watch the recorded ultrasound of the grandchildren on my own TV.....I am just in awe when I watch it.
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  #82  
Old 2009-05-08, 9:13pm
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Time to revive this thread!

How long wire do you work with? I would like a whole necklace, but that is an enormously long piece of wire!

Can you work with smaller lengths (a few feet) and add wire just like you do when you go from the starter loops to your working wire? I think it would be pretty tough if you tucked your ends in well, but I thought I would ask if anybody has done this or not.

Thanks!
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  #83  
Old 2009-05-10, 12:06pm
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Yes, that's how I learned to do it. I think we only used three foot lengths at a time. To get enough for a bracelet, I had to use three or four separate pieces, but tucking in all those ends was a lot easier than trying to manage one long piece of wire and keep the kinks out of it.

I was trying to post instructions on how to do it, but just typing it out isn't going to work; I tried. It's one of those things you really have to have someone show you how to do.
The basic idea is to just add a new wire by sticking it into where the old short wire is sticking out, leave an inch or so for a tail, and keep knitting. When the chain is long enough, you give them a pull to make sure they're taut, clip all the tails off to about one-eighth of an inch and use fine needle nose pliers to curl the end under and around the wire underneath, making sure you tuck it in securely and that it hooks all the way around the wire. It's not that easy because it's hard to see inside the chain and hard to tuck the wire in there while wrapping it around, but it becomes almost invisible. You also have to tuck the wires toward the end that isn't going to be pulled through the draw plate first, so there's little chance of it snagging on the draw plate and pulling out.

Last edited by Aretz; 2009-05-10 at 12:09pm.
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  #84  
Old 2009-05-10, 12:08pm
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I work with pieces of wire no longer than 2.5 - 3.0 ft. Anything longer gets to be difficult, tangles and kinks too easily. I have gotten very good at starting a new piece of wire and keeping the ends tucked and un-noticed. PM me if you need more details.

I have some new pieces I need to finish soon, I'll post again when complete.

- Audrey

PS. I make a piece about 11.25" to 12" to draw to 18".
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  #85  
Old 2009-05-10, 4:17pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aretz View Post
Yes, that's how I learned to do it. I think we only used three foot lengths at a time. To get enough for a bracelet, I had to use three or four separate pieces, but tucking in all those ends was a lot easier than trying to manage one long piece of wire and keep the kinks out of it.

I was trying to post instructions on how to do it, but just typing it out isn't going to work; I tried. It's one of those things you really have to have someone show you how to do.
The basic idea is to just add a new wire by sticking it into where the old short wire is sticking out, leave an inch or so for a tail, and keep knitting. When the chain is long enough, you give them a pull to make sure they're taut, clip all the tails off to about one-eighth of an inch and use fine needle nose pliers to curl the end under and around the wire underneath, making sure you tuck it in securely and that it hooks all the way around the wire. It's not that easy because it's hard to see inside the chain and hard to tuck the wire in there while wrapping it around, but it becomes almost invisible. You also have to tuck the wires toward the end that isn't going to be pulled through the draw plate first, so there's little chance of it snagging on the draw plate and pulling out.
Actually, you explained it quite well! If I understand, very similar to the transition from your starting wire to working wire, except you need to tuck and hook the old wire.

Thank you so very much! I am kind of embarassed that I didn't figure it out myself, I guess it is one of those things that don't seem obvious until somebody tells you.
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Old 2009-05-10, 4:22pm
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Fullajoy,
I got long arms, I am half gorilla, I do OK with 4 feet, but 3 feet would be better.

My practice weaves have been almost doubling in length. I am doing the double weave, with 5 loops around, what are you doing?
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  #87  
Old 2009-05-29, 12:16am
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Default Tutorial Please? Viking Knit Chain

Heidi, it is wrapped around a dowel. You work about two inches of the chain then slide it up. I know there is an awesome article in Art Jewelry...I want to say may or juneish issue. I also have a handout type thing i may be able to share.
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  #88  
Old 2009-05-30, 5:49pm
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I really like the Viking Knit pieces I saw posted above!!! Beautiful!
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  #89  
Old 2009-05-31, 1:54am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twiggyinaz View Post
Fullajoy,
I got long arms, I am half gorilla, I do OK with 4 feet, but 3 feet would be better.

My practice weaves have been almost doubling in length. I am doing the double weave, with 5 loops around, what are you doing?
Hi Twiggy,

I do double knit using either 5 or 6 loops. I like my bracelets very dense and not to lacy. I reduce to about 5mm+ to 6mm+. I hope to post some new bracelets soon.

- Audrey
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  #90  
Old 2009-05-31, 2:56am
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Join Date: Jul 19, 2008
Location: Devon, U.K
Posts: 1,426
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Ive been a busy bee...taken to doing my knitting during some of the enormously long teabreaks that me and my friends like to take...then feel guilty over for not getting on with stuff....so now I get both! yay!

guilt-free extra long teabreaks! love it! then I ran out of wire.

My pieces are almost doubling in length, 12" made somewhere around 22-23"

I'm using 0.5mm wire, the single knit and an allan key just to start on, then weaving around nothing. (a pencil worked but I made it too tight, couldnt get it out so I burned it out when I annealed it!) and Im drawing to about 5mm so it goes through my cored beads, might be more like 4.8mm.
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