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  #31  
Old 2007-12-29, 5:02pm
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Originally Posted by volkanokaren View Post
Deanne, Thanks for sharing your beauty flowers,...Thanks again Karen
Oh, Karen, I ONLY WISH I COULD TAKE CREDIT!!!! FLORAL PICTURES/PROPS should go to HEATHER, KELLY, SANDYQ and everyone else who posted pictures of their floral beads!!! I'm still working on getting the nerve and the procedure correct, (hence the post on the "Steps" asking for input and clarification!) before I dare post a photo of what I've done....

Still, I'd love to hear what everyone thinks of what I've put out here...plus I'm hoping to convince Heather that she HAS to come to California sometime in 2008 or whenever to give me and us West-Coasters a hands-on class in making these!!!!

Let's hear it for Heather, Kelly, Mary (Moth), SandyQ, Vikki (who started it all!) and everyone else who has made this thread so interesting so far!!! Keep it going....

DeAnne in CA
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  #32  
Old 2007-12-29, 6:07pm
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These are beautiful and the mini tut was great.

How about some recipes for stringers?
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  #33  
Old 2007-12-29, 6:43pm
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Originally Posted by Bead_bug View Post
These are beautiful...How about some recipes for stringers?
Hi Tracy!

I spent a while making stringer/canes last night...I found a couple of real dramatic color combos that look like their going to be fun:

1. Base of Pink (I used 104 Reich Opal Raspberry) and Pea Green Stripes to pull into a cane;

2. Base of Black (Hades is especially dense and good!) with Pale Pink Stripes to pull into a cane;

3. Base of Black (Hades again) with Medium Opaque Green Stripes to pull into cane;

4. Base of Pea Green with alternating Med. Opaque Green and Black Stripes to pull into cane....

The combos are endless!!! Chime in, everyone!!! Tip: I found that making a base of Opaque White with any color stripe is a PITA, since it seems the White wants to firm up really fast and not pull very thinly. Alternative is to make a base of any color and use the White for the stripes - this seems to pull out into the cane just wonderfully!

DeAnne in CA
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  #34  
Old 2007-12-29, 11:27pm
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Default encasing

Hi,
Your beads are all so beautiful!!! I enjoyed the tut and found it very
helpful. I am just wondering:
Do you encase the whole bead everytime or just the petals you have
laid down. I don't understand how to keep my beads small with all the
encasing.
Thanks.
Beadgal
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  #35  
Old 2007-12-30, 1:05am
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Originally Posted by beadgal1 View Post
Hi, Your beads are all so beautiful!!! I enjoyed the tut and found it very helpful. I am just wondering: Do you encase the whole bead everytime or just the petals you have laid down. I don't understand how to keep my beads small with all the encasing. Thanks. Beadgal
Hi There!

I agree - the beads that have been posted so far are really awesome, aren't they!!! I'm still in the "practice" and "trial and error" stages, so no pictures from me - yet!!!

Beadgal - I can give you the benefit of my experiments, at least..."spot" encasing seems to complicate the design by causing the "spot" encased areas to want to spread while rounding up the whole bead; encasing the entire bead seems to help the base design "hold" it's configuration, design and shape. With this in mind, I can suggest two things: First, using clear STRINGER to do the encasing helps to keep it thinner that using clear ROD, thus keeping the overall finished size of your bead smaller. Second, regarding encasing, make sure you check the link to Mary Lockwood's encasing tutorial in Wendy's Post #6 above. In it, you'll notice she is using clear ROD in the example, but the STRINGER works just as well if not better - for me, at least! I'm on a Hot Head, so I definitely don't work too big (I'm a "smaller bead" person anyway, and definitely don't want to deal with the "heat" issues caused by using a Hot Head and MAPP with a huge-o bead...crackville!) So far I've had no problems, and the largest bead I've made so far, even with 3 layers of encasing, ended up less than 3/4" across.

One last thing, if you start with a "core" base of color/frit/decoration such as you see in Heather's beautiful Orchid bead, if you intend to end up with a smaller bead, make sure it's a very thin core base and it seems to help by rolling it on a marver to keep it thin before the first clear encasing. Don't worry too much if it's really super thin since you'll be adding layer upon layer atop it. At least that's what I've found so far...

DeAnne in CA

DeAnne in CA
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Last edited by theglasszone; 2007-12-30 at 1:07am.
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  #36  
Old 2007-12-30, 6:21am
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Thank you DeAnne ,Heather, Kelly,Mary{moth},SandyQ and Vikki ,such a pleasure to have all this combined wisdom available,I feel warm all over.
Karen
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  #37  
Old 2007-12-30, 8:50am
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Originally Posted by theglasszone View Post

BASIC STEPS FOR MAKING FLORAL ENCASED BEAD:

1. Wind base bead (dark seems to really make the bead in final form "pop").
2. Add "frit" or other, neutral decoration.
3. Encase in clear.
4. Add "vine" cane in twisted, random fashion.
5. Encase again in clear.
6. Add first "set" of lower-most petals, using "opaque" color; shape, crease, or pull out the tips for longer, thinner petals. Methods, depending on the type of flower being made, might be "dot", "stripe" or combination of the two. Add transparent color over opaque and melt in (not applicable in the case of the "striped cane" long, thin petals).
7. Encase again in clear.
8. Continue adding layers of petals, using appropriate method in step #6 above (dot, stripe or both), and encase in clear between each layer.
9. Add final petals (or in case of "daffodil" or "orchid", final "cup" or "beard", as I believe is called in the last, uppermost petal in the orchid. This would be the "dot" method, with some delicate "ruffles" possibly added with shaper method of choice, using either a pick or stringer).
10. Encase again in a final layer of clear.
11. Spot heat the center of the flower and use the stamen cane, clear stringer or tungsten pick to "plunge" into the center of the uppermost petal or center of the final cluster of petals.
12. Add a small "cap" of clear - atop the nipped stamen or over the plunged "hole" in the case of the petal cluster or orchid "beard".
13. Flame anneal and pop into kiln or crock pot with vermeculite.
This is actually quite an advanced set of steps! For a really basic encased floral, all you need is 1, (2, 4), 5, 6, 7, and 13. 2 and 4 are optional, too. I make flowers with just these 7 steps most of the time. The only change I would make to your steps is to add transparent colour to a petal *before* pulling a point in step 6 (thought that may have been what you meant). It's good for beginners to practice the 5- or 7-step basics for a while and get a good feel for the petal-melting and encasing. From there, the possibilities are endless!

Some other steps that could be thrown into the mix include adding CZs in the middle like Kim Fields, adding tiny black dots to the petals (several tiny ones for a lily, one bigger one for tulip or poppy) adding cane flowers (like free-run stamens with ribbon lines instead of round lines) or more ambitiously, murrine flowers. You can layer the transparent top-colours, of course, and you can crease the opaque or cup it with a blunt tool before adding transparent, or crease the whole petal after adding transparent for a different look. Either way, you can crease once in the centre or multiple times in a radius (see the top 2 petals in my 2nd orchid bead). You can add an "invisible stamen" if you want the flower to be plunged without a bubble - just use a clear stringer to plunge (make sure it's clean and unscummy!). Oh, and I usually plunge the centre of my petals and re-melt once to get a really crisp centre meeting. Dot-based petals can be in sets of 3, 4, 5... 6 is possible but it gets a little harder to bring them to a central point without squashing them all together. Some people like to cover the whole bead with flowers so the base peeks out in between, and others (like me) like to leave a lot of background showing as part of the composition. It's a matter of personal style - the glass will usually whisper what it wants to you to do!

Another step I like for the base is silver-leafing before adding frit and vines. You can do anything to your base cylinder, though - as organic or geometric as you want! One design tip would be if you have a busy multi-colour base, stick with bold one-colour flowers. If you make high-contrast flowers stick with a more neutral base. This was my partner's feedback to me after some of my latest colour experiments, anyway - YMMV!

Hope this is the sort of thing you were looking for.

Oh, and when I re-read this thread I noticed that I was accidentally very rude and didn't compliment SandyQ on her beautiful red and orange flower bead! I really meant to as it is lovely. I apologize for neglecting it!
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Last edited by Heather/Ericaceae; 2007-12-30 at 8:54am.
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  #38  
Old 2007-12-30, 10:53am
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this is an awsome thread but I really would hope that if you are spending that much time making a bead like this you DON'T put it in a crock pot to anneal (or rather not anneal it). It would be a shame to have it crack at some later point. PLEASE use a kiln! Your heart won't be broken then..........and neither will your bead.
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  #39  
Old 2007-12-30, 11:02am
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Originally Posted by fyrebeadz* View Post
this is an awsome thread but I really would hope that if you are spending that much time making a bead like this you DON'T put it in a crock pot to anneal (or rather not anneal it). It would be a shame to have it crack at some later point. PLEASE use a kiln! Your heart won't be broken then..........and neither will your bead.
I agree with Donna! Even batch annealing can be tricky once you start adding so many layers - the bead just gets too big to cool evenly in vermiculite... it stays hot on the inside, so it cracks. I didn't have my own kiln for two years and a series of broken florals were finally what drove me to buy one so I could go straight from the flame to the kiln. It *was* heartbreaking when they cracked!

Possibly what DeAnne meant was just giving the bead a final gentle flame bath to even out the worst stress before cooling in vermiculite for batch annealing in a kiln. Some sources still call this "flame annealing" although that term is falling out of style because lampworkers don't want to confuse this process with actual kiln annealing, which is a separate step. Small florals can be batch annealed this way (flame bath, vermiculite cool, batch anneal in kiln), but once they start getting over 15mm thick it gets dicey.
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Last edited by Heather/Ericaceae; 2007-12-30 at 11:55am.
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  #40  
Old 2007-12-30, 11:32am
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Thank you so much for the reply!!!
All of your beads are so beautiful...maybe I just need to practice encasing with
thin layers.
I appreciate your help
happy holidays.
Beadgal
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  #41  
Old 2007-12-30, 11:54am
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Thanks for the recipes!
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  #42  
Old 2007-12-30, 12:11pm
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Oh, wow - Heather, thank you so much! Barely have any time this a.m., but I'm sincerely thankful for your guidance!!!!

Vikki, I think I owe you an apology!!!! I think I've hijacked your thread terribly....please forgive me!!!

TTYL,
DeAnne
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  #43  
Old 2007-12-31, 1:10am
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Hi Again Everyone:

I hope I'm not causing everybody's brain to melt down with all the questions; I do have a few clarification requests, though, if you don't mind...

Kerry: When you plunge your stamen cane into the center of the flower and "clip" it, can I ask 1) how do you hold the stamen cane while holding the bead in order to clip it off, and 2) what do you use to nip it? I've been imagining myself with a "tail" or an extra "arm" (giggle) to accomplish this! Should I just try and hold the end of the stamen cane between my lips? (Better be a good length, too - right?)

Heather: Your addition/clarification of my "Step #6" is really appreciated! Do you add a swipe of clear over your striped petals? Looking at them closely, they do look 3-D and cupped a bit - I just thought that placing clear over them might cause them to smear! I guess great care and practice is required here!

Heather/Donna: So far, I've had really good luck with using a Crock Pot with well heated vermeculite to hold my formed beads until I'm done with a session and then I unplug the Pot, and allow it to slowly cool down over night before I remove the beads from their mandrels. Unfortunately, I have very limited space, limited funds, and a rather sparse and unsophisticated set up for now; I have a PMC kiln that has a cycle that I can program to anneal my beads, so batch annealing is my only option right now. I'd love to get my hands on a used Chili Pepper (know where I can find one?), but for now, this is my only hope. Lots of finger crossing and so on....luck's been on my side!

Thanks again to everyone for all the great information, encouragement and photos! If I have success, I'll be sure to post!

DeAnne in CA
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  #44  
Old 2007-12-31, 4:24am
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Hi DeAnne,
Great tut you did there. I use a lot of silver in my backgrounds & lately I’ve been using black as my first color for the petals. If I get it right it leaves just a thin black line around the petals…which makes them really show up on a light background. I have an old picture here. I love making beads but I don’t get to take many individual pictures, just groups so I can keep track of what I have when I go to shows..

To answer your question…. I use quite thick but not very long stamen canes & I plunge them pretty deep. I hold the mandrel in my left hand with the end of the stamen cane steadied by a tall marvering pad & I use glass nippers to cut it. I filed a little off the glass nippers so they close better & will cut quite small stringers.

Beautiful orchid Heather, I know what I’ll be trying tomorrow….
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  #45  
Old 2007-12-31, 11:09am
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First of all I want to say beautiful flowers, Kerry! They are so lush!

Quote:
Originally Posted by theglasszone View Post
Hi Again Everyone:

Heather: Your addition/clarification of my "Step #6" is really appreciated! Do you add a swipe of clear over your striped petals? Looking at them closely, they do look 3-D and cupped a bit - I just thought that placing clear over them might cause them to smear! I guess great care and practice is required here!

DeAnne in CA
Hi DeAnne, The trick to the cupped cane petals is building the cupping into the cane. I add the clear to the cane itself before I pull it out and don't add any clear on top once it's been added to the bead. I've really only done a few of these though - I am re-inspired to try more!

Batch annealing is perfectly fine if you've worked out a process that help you keep them from cracking as they cool. The final result is the same!
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  #46  
Old 2007-12-31, 4:16pm
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First of all I want to say beautiful flowers, Kerry! They are so lush! Hi DeAnne, The trick to the cupped cane petals is building the cupping into the cane. I add the clear to the cane itself before I pull it out and don't add any clear on top once it's been added to the bead. I've really only done a few of these though - I am re-inspired to try more! Batch annealing is perfectly fine if you've worked out a process that help you keep them from cracking as they cool. The final result is the same!
Heather and everyone:

You've all been so helpful and unselfish in sharing your techniques and tips here for us - I can't tell you how much I appreciate it!!! (HUGE )

I've been practicing my cane pulling, and (dare I say myself) I've been really happy with the way the last batch (of about 12) turned out!!! Gee, I'm beginning to really believe in that thing called "practice" (giggle!) I've done some clear encased canes for stamen - but it didn't occur to me to encase the petal cane with clear - BRILLIANT!!! Do you put the clear all the way around the "football" before you pull it...I'm wondering if it will work if I just put clear atop one side...(why do I make everything harder? - Don't answer that...!!!)

I appreciate the encouragement with experimenting with the Crock Pot/Vermiculite process to cool before batch annealing...did you see Mustang Dawn's post of her new Studio? Good Heavens - gorgeous!!! I barely have room to turn in my little area of the garage, let alone find a place to put an annealing kiln!!! Sheesh, she even has a bathroom in there!!! (Green with envy!!!!)

Thanks again so much to everyone for their help and input!!! (Hey Heather, any chance we'll ever see you for a class in So. California? I would so BE THERE!!!!)

DeAnne in CA
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  #47  
Old 2007-12-31, 5:10pm
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(Hey Heather, any chance we'll ever see you for a class in So. California? I would so BE THERE!!!!)

DeAnne in CA
You convince a studio to hire me and fly me out, and I'd be there in a flash! (Especially during the chilly Winnipeg winters!)
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  #48  
Old 2008-01-01, 12:24am
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Hi Heather~

Wish I could arrange to have a local studio host a class for you - but, alas, I'll have to settle for the thread postings and the PMs...for now!!! You've been so generous and helpful and inspirational, as has all contributors to this thread. A special thank you to Vikki for starting it in the first place!!!! THANK YOU, VIKKI!!!! You asked just the right question, at just the right time, to yield a wealth of information. I've pulled a few more canes and I'm hoping to really sit down with all of this tomorrow (New Year's Day) to see if I can put something picture-worthy together. I've also been following the Calla Lilly Thread...a lot of good information there also. I gave two a try - the first one (pink/black base with white lillies/yellow "stamen" cane) looked a lot like Fried Eggs - ha!!!! But it was a great learning experience, and gave me the courage to march on, especially with the encasing. The second one, made with Trans. Grey Base and Med. Alabaster Turquoise Lillies - and wow, what was I thinking? Alabaster? Doink!!!! - came out quite well except for the fact that the Alabaster Lillies are more like "Ghost Lillies" and I ended up with bubbles over most of the stamen - again, lesson learned. I might just dare to post a picture of it in the Calla Thread when it comes out of the batch annealing - if it survives!

Thanks again to everyone - hope to keep this thread alive, at least for a while longer!

Happy New Year all!
DeAnne in CA
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  #49  
Old 2008-01-01, 12:28am
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Kerry:

Thanks for the tip on using the stamen - and the idea of leaving it above the bead, capping it with the clear, and melting it in...THAT'S how you get that wonderful effect!!! I'm still trying to get my mind around the information you gave me for holding the stamen while nipping it - I also think I need a new (another) pair of nippers that come much closer together...some of my cane is pretty thin, but I'm on a Hot Head so I have to work smaller.

Thanks again,
DeAnne in CA
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  #50  
Old 2008-01-01, 2:58am
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You should see Kerry's bead IRL, DeAnne. I kept OOHHH!!! AAHHH!!! all day.
She gave me a lot of advices too
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  #51  
Old 2008-01-01, 1:14pm
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theglasszone theglasszone is offline
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Originally Posted by gubnavnania View Post
You should see Kerry's bead IRL, DeAnne. I kept OOHHH!!! AAHHH!!! all day. She gave me a lot of advices too
Hi Yunita~

Thanks for posting a comment here and helping to keep this thread alive - but I must say, "you've been holding out on us!!!!" Just saw your florals in Gallery - wow, beautiful!!! If I could only see one of you guys do the floral thing IRL, I'd be so thrilled!! You're work is beautiful - and it's so nice of you to give "props" to Kerry for her influence on you...it's my estimation, though - these "greats" are wonderful teachers and full of inspiration, but as I believe was mentioned earlier in this thread, after getting the "basics" down from hands-on instruction, each artist seems to quickly develop their own technique and the unique design emerges in bloom!!!!

If you get a second, maybe you can post pictures of some of your florals here...(wink, nudge!)

DeAnne in CA
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Old 2008-01-01, 2:22pm
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Thank you Yunita for your lovely comments. You are making wonderful beads & your progress has been amazing. Oh to be so young & keen again. Kerry
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  #53  
Old 2008-01-01, 2:47pm
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DeAnne,

Here's some of my personal favorite






Come to Sydney monthly meeting and you can meet all my teachers there
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Old 2008-01-01, 5:26pm
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theglasszone theglasszone is offline
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Sweeeet!!!! Thanks so much for posting, Yunita! They are all gorgeous - I love everything, but admit I'm having a "envy moment" with your lovely "Calla Lilly" beads - still can't quite get that depth/cup thing right! Your color combos are luscious!

Wish I could get to Sydney; they barely let me get to the grocery store before the cell phone starts ringing - ha!!!

DeAnne in CA
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Old 2008-01-01, 9:57pm
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don't feel bad about your studio ladies. I've been torching for 6 years now and I have an old office desk that is 6 feet long, and that's it! It's in the corner of the basememt, where I actually lived for 4 years before moving upstairs to a "real" house in June. Before moving up there my bed was 2 feet away from where I sat when I torched. It's cramped yes, but I get a lot of work done there! I do have another workbench to my right now where I can set up 2 additonal torches for students and if I'm not doing that I can do metalwork there or rivet my sterling pandora/troll beads or work on PMC. All my glass is stored in an old tupperware tub on the floor (it's the pits) or in old clear glass floral vases right in front of where I torch. The florals posted in this thread are wonderful! Great thread!
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Old 2008-01-01, 10:26pm
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don't feel bad about your studio ladies. I've been torching for 6 years now and I have an old office desk that is 6 feet long, and that's it!...The florals posted in this thread are wonderful! Great thread!
Hi There!

Thanks for bringing me back to earth! I know I've got a crunched and cramped area, but you are working in a smaller area than me and you work is wonderful!!! I'm thankful for just being able to tear away from the daily grind and have a place to escape to...I'm glad you joined in!

Take care and keep up the good work!
DeAnne in CA
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  #57  
Old 2008-01-02, 10:38pm
sarbeardog sarbeardog is offline
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Default My floral bead using this tutorial

Hi All,
I have never posted a picture of my work on LE. To scary and haven't taken the time to figure it out. But here it goes I think!
Anyway, this is a bead that I completed last night. Its the first bead that I really like. This process has taken me hours of torch time to figure out. And I mean hours! I have also used the help of this tutorial.
Thank you all for your wonderful and very helpful advise.
Any feedback would be nice. Like how can I get more depth in the florals?
Kathy




http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/up...p?viewid=99112
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  #58  
Old 2008-01-02, 10:41pm
sarbeardog sarbeardog is offline
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Default Oh Well!

Hi Again,

Well I at least got this far with attaching a photo. What did I do wrong?
I'm going to try again.
Kathy
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  #59  
Old 2008-01-02, 10:43pm
sarbeardog sarbeardog is offline
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Default did this work



Second time. Wonder if this worked.
Kathy
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Old 2008-01-02, 10:46pm
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Hi Kathy!

Your bead is absolutely beautiful!!! You are among friends here!!! I'm very impressed with your efforts - a splendid success! As far as depth, from what I've gleaned from all the input and advice given here, layers of clear between layers of petals is the KEY to achieving the depth perspective. In other words, after making one set of petals, encase the entire bead in clear. Then place your next set of petals appropriately located but atop this new encasement. You are totally on the right track and should be very proud of this bead! Please feel free to share more...I see that you have posted a working link, but don't be scared to just post the picture directly here!!! It's great!

DeAnne in CA
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