somebody please help me!!

angie4680 · #1 2006-11-13, 11:47am

Ok, I cannot get any purple! I'm trying to do implosions, and everything is coming out yellow and green. Even Purple luster. So I thought I was too hot, so I tried working really far out in the flame and turning up my oxy, but no luck. A LITTLE purple, but mostly yellow and green. Even blue moon turns out green. So what should I do? I'm on a cuda with tanked oxygen, and I like to use both inner and outer fires, and I like it hot, but I'm missing something. thanks a lot!!!

pipyr · #2 2006-11-13, 11:57am

Angie, are they going in the kiln or no? It sounds like you are working them right, but they still need to strike. I strike everything in the back of the flame when I'm done with the piece, but most of my stuff is surface work. Maybe you should try flame striking in the back of the flame when you are done, or dial a striking schedule into your kiln to anneal and strike

Do you have a pic of your flame? Are the colors going opaque on you or are you just not getting any color out of them?

e. mort · #3 2006-11-13, 12:43pm

If you post some pics it would really help us to see what you are getting. Hopefully we could help you better then.

Cosmo · #4 2006-11-13, 12:46pm

You have to work it really hot. Keep it hot so the color is clear. Then, take it out of the flame, let it cool, and flame strike it.

Put it into the kiln at 1075 or so for an hour and it should strike.

angie4680 · #5 2006-11-13, 12:59pm

I wish I could post pics but I lost the software for my camera! I just need a new camera. But I've tried flame striking, and kiln striking. I've tried 1050, 1075 and even went up tp 1150 for like 4 hours and nothing. It seems like when I flame strike it just gets worse. Beads are fine, it's just the implosions. How long does it usually take to flame strike with a 16mm pendant? Like with Purple luster, when I'm doing the backing, I can see nice purples in there. Then by the time I smooth the backing and do the lens, it's washed out. It takes me maybe 15-20 min for a pendant - too long? - too short? Chad, you said in your tut you didn't even flame strike it and had purples, so I'm just really at a loss. Maybe I'm not patient enough. How long does it take you guys? I've checked for a neutral flame. What else can I try?
Thanks!
Angie

Cosmo · #6 2006-11-13, 1:12pm

15-20 minutes for making a pendant is pretty good. Although the time spent making it doesn't really effect the finished color if you keep it hot enough.

It takes maybe 20-30 seconds to flame strike something.

It could be that you aren't letting it cool enough. Or it could be getting too cool when you are working it. Get a copy of Doug Remschneider's Boro Bead Magic video. The first part of the video has a lot of technical info about the temperatures glass needs to be to strike. That may help you figure out what you are doing wrong.

angie4680 · #7 2006-11-13, 2:17pm

Thanks Chad. I've got Doug's video and I thought I was pretty clear on it but obviously not!! Maybe I'll try with some 9mm or something and see if it's just getting too cool or try waiting longer before flame striking. Thanks for the info. I thought in the striking color range yellow and green are last. So that's why I thought I was just over striking.

elle · #8 2006-11-13, 3:45pm

Angie, what brand of clear are you using?

angie4680 · #9 2006-11-13, 4:11pm

I'm not sure. It was just open stock rod from Glasscraft. Would that have anything to do with it? I just can't believe it's getting too cool. I'm thinking maybe I'll try to do it without the graphite mold. Maybe that's cooling it down too much. It just seems faster to me (to use the mold). Now I'm also getting like a matte or blemish on my lens, like I'm scraping it on the mold or something. It won't burn off. Could that be bad glass, or maybe my lens is too big and it seems that's where the tip melts in, I'm not sure. Stupid question, but is there any maintaince with graphite molds? I just got it and wiped it out. I'm trying not to push too hard, but I dunno. Thanks

IF-Designs · #10 2006-11-13, 4:43pm

Angie im having the exact same problems...I cant get anything but nasty yellows and greens....its driving me CRAZY I can get BEAUTIFUL colors in beads and on the backing but once something is imploded BLACH! I will go take photos so I can show maybe this is what your getting too im using Kimble clear at home.

ok heres the pic
the one with the orange flower I made at beadapalooza and struck in the flame its smaller and doesnt have as big of a lense nad was made with simax clear the others are made with kimble and have a thick rounded lense and are a bit deeper encased and are larger but use similar colors in the flowers. one way or another made the flowers in different ways but with an assortment of different striking colors and canes of striking colors you can see on the back of some of them where I got good colors on the backs and loops but the implosions blah.

angie4680 · #11 2006-11-13, 4:56pm

I'm sure it is. It's kinda like Eric's marble he posted a long time ago that was Triple Passion. Just washed out yellow and a little green. I'm going to try a marble tonite with just the Purple Luster frit on top and see what color I get. I've tried a 12mm pendant and the same thing happens. My beads are so small it's hard to judge, but they are def in the purple range. I just don't have the patience for beads - it seems like a lot of work for a little bead

I'm almost out of my sample for the Purple Luster frit so I better get it to work soon! It's driving my absolutely crazy too. All that time wasted. It at least makes me feel better I'm not alone! Thanks. I can't even get Paula's to come out decent. I'm going to lose it.

IF-Designs · #12 2006-11-13, 5:36pm

well my thing is im using colors I get to work fine in beads and smaller elements just fine just cant get them to work in implosions

I know its user error just dont know what error im making

e. mort · #13 2006-11-13, 7:49pm

I have to work the implosions super hot and almost out of control to keep them clear. Then when they are all done, I add the loop quickly. A lot of times, just adding the loop will strike the colors in the top of the pendant. I then take them under the table until they have cooled and flame strike them at the very tip of the flame. Depending on how long they are going to kiln anneal, I may strike them a lot or a little. Also, if you want a deep purple in the implosion then you need to have the rod that are you are making your dots with free of haze, and you need to keep the dots free of haze as you implode them.

Eric

Rose · #14 2006-11-14, 5:45am

Same problem here... But I'm a newbie

Anways, I think Eric may have the answers. I'm guessing I'm not keeping the whole thing hot enough thru the process and doubt I can on one concentrator with a Betta. It's possible I'm overstriking it. I guess it's going to take a class with Smiley!

Rose

Cosmo · #15 2006-11-14, 6:18am

Yeah. Working them hot is the key. They need to stay really hot and clear in order to strike when they are done. Takes a little practice to get to the point where you're comfortable working that hot.

angie4680 · #16 2006-11-14, 7:10am

I guess I'll have to just keep trying. Sooo frusterating. I thought I'd got it last night, but alas, nope,better, but not what I think I should get. I'm working on getting my camera to work here. There's actually a couple that I can see it's close. I think my problem is I was taking too long to get the back to lay down. So I used Turquosa and Black Violet last night, which melt waaaay better then some of the other ones. I just threw it on, thinking "it's not going to turn out anyway," then quickly did the lens, and took off as much extra clear as I could, and finished them fast. I can see more color. I actually took them under the table and waited. I premake my loops, so that part goes fast, and I think I was just not waiting long enough before flame striking. One ? tho, is how can you tell if there's haze on there when its white hot? I worked a DAP implosion really watching that as I was imploding, and I cant tell when it's so hot whether there's haze or not. And after its backed, will the haze stay off then, as long as it's white hot?

e. mort · #17 2006-11-14, 7:17am

The haze will reform, but usually not as heavy the second time. I had somebody ask me what haze looks like as you are making a piece. To me it looks like the light fog you get on a bathroom mirror when you are taking a shower if you have the exhaust fan on. Then after you get out if you hit it with a hair dryer you can watch it evaporate off. It is not that extreme, but it might give you more of an idea of what to look for if you are not sure you are getting it all off. Hope this helps

angie4680 · #18 2006-11-14, 7:29am

Yea Eric thanks. Will the haze not reappear once it's been imploded and backed? Or do I need to look for it as I'm doing the lens?

Cosmo · #19 2006-11-14, 7:39am

If you burn the haze off when you are applying the color to the clear, it shouldn't reappear. It's inside the clear at that point. The haze is a result of the flame making the metals come to the surface of the glass. Since the flame isn't hitting it once it's inside the clear, it shouldn't come back.

angie4680 · #20 2006-11-14, 9:46am

Thanks guys for all the help. I refuse to give up!