Solara?

[Emily]

I know Chad likes Solara, so I'm hoping he'll have some tips, but I'll welcome anything.

I can't make Solara look like anything worth looking at. Any suggestions for striking it? Any recommended color combinations that are stunning with Solara?

[Cosmo]

Keep it hot. Really hot. Then when you are done, let it cool for a little bit then flame strike it. Pop it into a kiln at about 1100 or so and it should strike. It works best when you have a somewhat thick layer of it.

I like to use it with Elvis, GA Warm Yellow, or any of the striking purples.

[burntfingers]

My solara attempts always come out looking almost black ... what the hell am I doing to it?? lol!

[Mr. Smiley]

Solara doesn't like me either, so don't feel too bad. I'll have to buy some more and play. I think I threw mine out the window.

[isellrejer]

Solara looks great with purples, blues, greens and disco sparkle. Like Cosmo said, let it cool just a little and then strike it. Love it.

Jerri

[elle]

You say you strike it, but what does it look like when you guys strike it? Clear yellow or opaque, or what?

I work Solara in the exact opposite way you are supposed to work Amber Purple. It starts out clear, then yellow, then translucent/opaque by the time I'm finished with it, and that's the way I like it. I keep it pretty hot, but just below working temperature (so not too hot) and it turns a nice streaky opaque/translucent dark yellow with light yellow streaks. I never deliberately strike it, either in the flame or in the kiln. I anneal at 1050. The results may vary depending on whether it is encased or not, but I always encase it. I'm sure Solara varies somewhat from batch to batch, as most boro strikers do. I have had it go to a weird purplish color before it goes opaque, but never black. To me, it's kind of like NS Yellow but more interesting. I like Solara as a core bead, it is definitely best when built up in layers - it doesn't do too much when used as dots or detailed decoration. It is one of my favorites.

Sarah

[LAG]

Brent, where is your window!!!! I cleaning up your yard...

[Cosmo]

Here are a few beads made with Solara (the orange is Solara).




That's about what it looks like when it strikes before going into the kiln. Kiln striking doesn't seem to effect it. It takes a good amount of color to make the color look right. On the second bead, the Solara and Elvis were the same "height" before I encased them. But, because the Solara is still somewhat transparent, the Elvis looks "higher" than the Solara.

[elle]

Here is one example of what I get with Solara as a base color:



(and I can't believe I finally figured out the image uploader thingee for the first time WITHOUT any coffee!!! Go ME!)

Sarah

[gennym]

I remember a long time ago I called about Solara coming out very dark and was told that I was keeping it in the kiln way too long and that it was a delicate color (like sublime) and some other transparents. I just finished Kay's class on flame striking at Momka's (thanks Kay) and appreciate her perspective on treating the glass gently and being patient about letting the colors come out (Momka's advice for her glass too). Somtimes less IS more!

[LAG]

Sarah, do you sell on Ebay as Z-Beads? I really admire their work and that bead is awesome.

[elle]

Originally Posted by LAG

Sarah, do you sell on Ebay as Z-Beads? I really admire their work and that bead is awesome.

Yep, that's me! Thank you!

[borobatch]

Here are a few more ideas on working with Solara (and other silver colors). My experience has been when a color doesn't strike it is because it is still too hot. To strike a silver color, after making the workpiece, you need to let it cool down to about 1050. (Maybe cooler on the surface so that the core also drops, i.e. glow goes away under the table). Then warm up in the backflame (slow like) to a dull orange glow. Count to say 2 or maybe 3 for yellow to orange. Longer for some hints of purple. If I put it back into the flame to soon it doesn't work.

As for the black?? Is that a very dark purple? Maybe carbon?