Drawer Pulls help

tuffydog · #1 2006-12-28, 7:02pm

All of my drawer pulls are fractured next to the stainless steel inserts. There are no external cracks. I flame anneal and anneal in the kiln as I would any larger boro piece. Can any one give a me tip to keep this from happening?

e. mort · #2 2006-12-28, 7:09pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by tuffydog

All of my drawer pulls are fractured next to the stainless steel inserts. There are no external cracks. I flame anneal and anneal in the kiln as I would any larger boro piece. Can any one give a me tip to keep this from happening?

I have heard this same complaint from others when it comes to making drawer pulls with boro and stainless inserts. It seems to work fine with softglass though. I am guessing that the stainless is expanding more than the boro is and cracking it. If so, I would suggest making them on a mandrell with heavy bead release and then maybe glueing the stainless steel inserts into them after they come out of the kiln. Just an idea.....

Feldt's Glass · #3 2006-12-28, 9:05pm

The COE for that metal is to different for the boro. Like Eric said it works for soft glass if you are careful and hold your head just right. I usually epoxy mine on for this reason.

tuffydog · #4 2006-12-28, 9:23pm

And using the soft glass is a problem for me. I am so used to working boro, I boil all the soft glass. I've bought pounds of soft glass and books and read everything I can find and I still can't make a decent soft glass bead. They come out pretty nice with the boro with the exception of florals and I love them best.
I keep wanting to give up on the soft glass, but I am too bull headed and will keep trying. Thanks for the help!

Kalera · #5 2006-12-28, 9:32pm

Recently I've been using 5/32" mandrels and making the knob with the hole all the way through, like the old-fashioned glass ones in our 1909 bungalow. I like the finished look a lot, and the replacement screws are easy to find at hardware stores for about 20 cents each. I'll have to post some pics.

CraftymissKim · #6 2006-12-28, 9:35pm

My soft glass cracks on the stainless insert. Help what am I doing wrong. I use bullseye and everyone I have made have cracked. Advise please.

thank you Kim

LAG · #7 2006-12-30, 8:22pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kalera

Recently I've been using 5/32" mandrels and making the knob with the hole all the way through, like the old-fashioned glass ones in our 1909 bungalow. I like the finished look a lot, and the replacement screws are easy to find at hardware stores for about 20 cents each. I'll have to post some pics.

Kalera, I would love to see your drawer pulls..... please??

Kalera · #8 2006-12-30, 8:39pm

Oh yeah, pictures! I'll go do that now...

Kalera · #9 2006-12-30, 9:17pm

OK, that only took freakin' FOREVER! Taking the pic was the easy part... but resizing it was a PITA because apparently Photoshop and iTunes don't get along, ergh! But here they are, all the ones I've made so far:

Thirteenmoons · #10 2006-12-30, 10:16pm

Kalera, those are awesome!!! That's just one long screw?

BTW, I don't think iTunes or iPhoto get along with anything! My iPod and my camera duke it out on a daily basis too. Lol!

Kalera · #11 2006-12-30, 10:53pm

Thanks Lauren! Yes, it's just a long screw that goes all the way through... easy peasy! Here's a place where you can order them if your hardware store doesn't have them:

http://www.vandykes.com/product/02002302/

Kalera · #12 2006-12-30, 10:53pm

Oh, and I use a hollow mandrel to poke an indentation at the top of the knob, where the screw head is recessed.

HardwoodTrailGlass · #13 2006-12-31, 4:40am

Wow Kalera, those are stunning!

And thanks for the tips and link.

LAG · #14 2006-12-31, 6:34am

Oh my gosh! Kalera, those are absolutely gorgeous. And thanks sooo much for taking the time on the picture. Don't you hate it when someone asks you to do that and you don't already have it set up?? !!!
These are worth putting in my "howto" folder.....yup yup yup

dragon myst · #15 2006-12-31, 10:58am

Beautiful !

CraftymissKim · #16 2006-12-31, 11:27am

wow

PaulaD · #17 2007-01-01, 9:42pm

Kalera you rock!!

Paula

Kalera · #18 2007-01-01, 9:46pm

<blushing> Thanks! I'm glad I could be helpful.

I've been meaning to take pics of them, so I'm grateful for getting the kick in the tuchus to get it done!

glassymom · #19 2007-01-01, 9:57pm

Oh Kalera,
I've been wanting to make drawer pulls, even got the stuff from home depot but hadn't tried it. Yours are GEORGEOUS!!!! I keep going back to look at them!! WOW!! Can I ask what kind of glass you use? (moretti, CIM, ASK?)
I just LOVE the colors!!!! Thank you for taking the time to post, I'm so excited to try them now!!!
sue

Kalera · #20 2007-01-01, 10:01pm

Thanks Sue! Some of them are Bullseye, some are Uroboros, and one is, I think, Gaffer. I like using the kind of translucent-y glass colors for knobs, so people don't assume they're painted or ceramic. Someday, I'll have my whole kitchen done! Hopefully by the end of 2007.

LAG · #21 2007-01-02, 7:44am

So, I am guessing these were made on a mandrel and then inserted over the bolt? I would love to attempt these for myself. Can you tell us what size mandrel you used??

Robinj · #22 2007-01-02, 7:55am

Love those!!! I looked for those stupid plain-head screws and couldn't find any!

Now, if only someone could figure out how to make handles!

The best I've come up with is using a bar handle shaped like a TT and making something for the extending ends. They're really big though.

Kalera · #23 2007-01-02, 8:52pm

I *think* the mandrel size is 5/32". You might even be able to use 1/8", I haven't tried though. You can get them here: http://www.sundanceglass.com/glass-bead-tools-r.htm

evilglass · #24 2007-01-02, 9:41pm

For some reason I'm thinking that boro needs brass? And stainless steel works with moretti, but not bullseye? Don't use galvinized, it will crack. The coating of zinc does something funky with the glass. You *can* burn off the zinc coating, then file the remainder off but you need some serious ventilation. Probably simpler to find non galvinized stuff to put it on. Wish I knew what worked with bullseye.

LAG · #25 2007-01-03, 5:54am

Does anyone know if a person could get this size at a welding shop? Thanks, Kalera. You are a jewel for sharing this with every one....

rusticstudio · #26 2007-01-03, 12:36pm

Those are awesome Kalera!

menty666 · #27 2009-06-29, 11:48am

wow!!!

rick007 · #28 2009-08-10, 4:22pm

I use stainless steel #8-32 inserts with boro glass without cracking. The trick is to heat the insert until it is glowing red, apply the boro, and work it as if the insert isn't there (making sure not to cover the hole).

Anneal for 30 minutes at 1060 F then ramp down at no more than 100 degrees per hour. I stop when I hit 80- degrees. I have yet to have a knob crack due to the incompatibility between the steel and the glass.

I use stainless steel coupling nuts as my inserts. They are much cheaper than the cabinet pull inserts I have seen at the big internet glass suppliers. They are available at boltdepot.com. I use #8-32 X 1/2 inch which accepts the standard knob bolts. Any #8-32 screw available at your local hardware store will work. Hope this helps someone. I have cracked many knobs until I figured out a ramping schedule that works.

Cathie · #29 2009-08-10, 7:32pm

Kalera those are very beautiful !!!!!! adding this to my todo list.

Deb Hopeful Journeys · #30 2009-08-11, 4:59pm

Just found this thread and Kalera, those are amazing~!