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Boro Room -- For Boro-related tips, techniques, and questions.

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  #1  
Old 2012-09-20, 1:27am
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Default Help. Cutting Boro Tube?

Hiyas

Apologies in advance. I have no idea what I'm doing at this stage.
But I've been asked to look into cutting and burnishing the ends of lengths of boro tubing.

I have a Mini CC and an 8LPm oxycon.
Is it even possible? And would I need to upgrade my didys if I was only doing this kind of work with boro?

Oh, and how on earth would I cut it in the first place? I'm thinking that the lengths would have to be quite precise.

Thanks

di
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  #2  
Old 2012-09-20, 3:51am
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what diameter tubing are you talking about?
Also, by burnishing I'm assuming you mean melting the edges of the cut end over ... this is called flame polishing.

If it's small diameter tubing, you can score the tube with a glass knife (not those rotary ones), wet the score line, then hold the tube on either side of the cut and pull it apart. Remember not to break it like you would a twig, but really pull it apart. You can buy tungsten carbide bladed knives from glass suppliers, or if you're lucky to find them, you can get a tungsten carbide paint/wallpaper stripper blade from your local paint shop much cheaper. Don't do this technique with lightwall tubing unless you've had some experience with something heavier, though, lightwall can be a bit dicy.
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  #3  
Old 2012-09-20, 2:45pm
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Thanks heaps, WG

I'd only be talking anywhere between 20 and 30mm outer diameter tubing. Not sure of wall thicknesses at this stage.
I've had a look at Bunnings, and they have a tungsten carbide pocket scriber, (but no pic) for $12.95. I think that might be it.

And yes, DUH, flame polishing! I should know that! My little dragon should manage that, eh?
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  #4  
Old 2012-09-20, 5:04pm
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Ah, 20 to 30 od ... the 20 you should be able to pull apart, for 30 i can recommend a shock and score approach. This means you score about 1.5cm line into the glass (some people think scoring all the way around a tube is necessary, but its definitely not), wet the line a little, heat up the end of a rod and dab it onto the score mark. With practice you will get a nice even crack off all the way around the tube.
Do yourself a favour, dont do any of the above with Chinese glass, its pretty dodgy stuff.
Your torch should be fine for polishing those sorts of diameters.
Also, you're looking for a bladed tool, the scribe may work, but you will have a bugger of a time trying to score a straight line with it ...
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  #5  
Old 2012-09-20, 5:29pm
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Ah, thank you Ok Will look for a more appropriate tool.
Thanks for the headsup re the glass itself, too. Any opinions about a good supplier in Australia?

Thank you thank you thank you again
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  #6  
Old 2012-09-20, 5:42pm
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you can try Schott directly, or Helm, but you'll have to buy a case full. If you're just after a few tubes, Affordable Inspiration in Tassie can help you out. Or you could try one of the scientific glassblowers up your way, I'm pretty sure there are a couple of them in Brissie and most scientific guys will sell you a tube or two.
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  #7  
Old 2012-10-16, 8:46pm
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Thanks, WG
Establishing measurements has taken a lot of time, but I'm nearly there in terms of making an order.

I've found a place on the GC willing to help me out getting started. Rapt about that - half the battle!
Once we get ODs and wall thicknesses sorted, I'm hopefully on my way.
You never know - I might even get good at cutting this stuff
Thanks again for your help. Very much appreciated.
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  #8  
Old 2012-10-16, 10:10pm
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How much of this are you going to be cutting? If its precision and large volume a crack off machine would be ideal and a lot cleaner faster and so on. One can be built relativly cheap as well.
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  #9  
Old 2012-10-17, 12:42am
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Not sure at this stage. Hopefully a lot. What is a crack off machine? I'm intrugued.

ETA Oooh that looks awesome! Unsure I'd be that busy, though. But ya never know..
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Last edited by essiemessy; 2012-10-17 at 12:50am.
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  #10  
Old 2012-10-17, 1:35am
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See....

http://www.talkglass.com/forum/showt...ck-off-machine
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  #11  
Old 2012-10-17, 2:17pm
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That's awesome! Thanks for the link.
I'd be in heaven if the amount of work I'd be expecting was of a scale to justify one of those. But it wouldn't even fit in my workshop
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  #12  
Old 2012-10-18, 5:55am
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Malcolm at Artco has a sweet tool called jaws. I scores all the way around a tube. Then you can tap it lightly on the edge of your workable. It's a little pricy but it works great, and I believe it would be easier to get exact measured cuts.
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  #13  
Old 2012-10-18, 8:15am
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Or you could just use a wet saw and a resin bond diamond blade and fire polish after.
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  #14  
Old 2012-10-18, 9:57am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mamagerbs View Post
Malcolm at Artco has a sweet tool called jaws. I scores all the way around a tube. Then you can tap it lightly on the edge of your workable. It's a little pricy but it works great, and I believe it would be easier to get exact measured cuts.
http://www.artcoinc.com/jaws.php

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  #15  
Old 2012-10-18, 2:53pm
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Awesome tool!
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  #16  
Old 2012-10-26, 12:15am
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I've sent an enquiry for an order, Malcolm
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  #17  
Old 2012-10-27, 1:48pm
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I don't know if this would work for boro, but have a look and try: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sFXngPx3w3M
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  #18  
Old 2012-10-27, 2:10pm
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That was quite entertaining, actually

I really like the score and awe (drip and hot rod) method mentioned near the top of the thread. But I'd forgotten how it went when I finally got some glass to play with. I rushed it out to the shed and fired up the torch to do it and.. duh.
I remember now, and will do that next time I'm out there

But the good thing was that I discovered what I could manage with the Mini:

Fire polishing won't be a problem at all.
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  #19  
Old 2012-10-29, 11:01am
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If you're going to score and snap tubing, be careful of all the glass dust it creates.

Most people I know are entirely cavalier about this hazard. I suggest avoiding scoring, when you can, and doing it somewhere besides your work table when possible (like outside).
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  #20  
Old 2012-10-29, 1:22pm
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I hadn't thought of that, Juln. Thanks for the reminder.
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Old 2012-12-18, 11:40pm
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Happy days! I got my Jaws, and have tried the score a little, wet and shock, and it works like a charm.
Now to work up a jig to keep the line lined up
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  #22  
Old 2012-12-19, 8:25am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by essiemessy View Post
Happy days! I got my Jaws, and have tried the score a little, wet and shock, and it works like a charm.
Now to work up a jig to keep the line lined up
Great to hear. Pics, pics!

-BEP
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  #23  
Old 2012-12-19, 1:33pm
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LOL when I can confidently cut a perfect right angle for a jig, I'll post
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  #24  
Old 2014-11-29, 6:50pm
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Hey Di! How's the boro going? Still using tubing? Good tips for dividing long tubes into manageable pieces...I just got some 28mm stuff from AI....Chinese mind you��
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  #25  
Old 2014-11-29, 8:18pm
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Hi, Cherry!!
No, not really. I look longingly at it, but gave up on the purpose I started with it in the first place - the tolerances are too tight for the tools I have. But I have an awful lot to play with and I do look forward to that. Not that I've had a chance to play around much at all.
Tree decos were supposed to be on the list this year but I guess I have all next year to practice

I did manage to get a jig made for the Jaws scorer, BTW, which works nicely. I'll try and remember to get a pic one of these days for ya. If I don't remember, Cherry, feel free to remind me!
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  #26  
Old 2014-12-03, 2:15pm
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Here are the Jaws in action.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VyZDGq7D1hk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pQKO1rJC2XI

Score and drop of water.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7HvsXVageUk
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  #27  
Old 2014-12-04, 8:32am
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I've always just scored it, wet the score, then touch it with a hot rod. Works like a charm. On larger diameter tubing (44 and up) you sometimes have to do it twice. But it works.
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  #28  
Old 2014-12-17, 1:43pm
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Hi, Cherry. I finally got round to taking a pic of the jig I worked up (Hubby made it out of scrap, I only drew it up ).
Sorry it's a Q&D pic, but you get the idea.
It's from the back side. The groove holds the lower jaw, the tube sits against the top upright, and you just turn the tube to score.
Hope that helps.

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