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Boro Room -- For Boro-related tips, techniques, and questions.

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  #1  
Old 2012-09-15, 4:05am
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Dragonharper Dragonharper is offline
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Default Questions on NS Blue Moon

I like the Blue Metallic color that it can produce. The question is how do I consistently get it? I've found that if I work it cool and in a neutral or slightly reducing flame I've got better luck at the outcome, am I doing it correctly. Also how do I get it back to dark blue once it turns blue green, I like that color too but not for what I'm making at the moment.

Thanks.
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  #2  
Old 2012-09-15, 6:26am
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I think I figured out to get rid of the blue-green, get the gather screaming hot, and the blue-green turns back into dark blue.
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  #3  
Old 2012-10-10, 8:46am
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There's only one thing you shouldn't do, which is reduce it so far that it turns matte grey. At that point, there's no going back (ask me how I know). I love Blue Moon!
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  #4  
Old 2012-10-10, 2:04pm
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Thanks for the advice!
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Hot glass does not crack.
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  #5  
Old 2012-10-10, 3:48pm
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mine ALWAYS turns gray.... ALWAYS.
I have no idea how i could keep it oxidized enough to stop that.

Khan
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  #6  
Old 2012-10-11, 3:19am
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Are you using an oxy con or tanked oxy?
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Hot glass does not crack.
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  #7  
Old 2012-11-06, 7:49pm
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I just got back from a class with Brent Graber.

Before class I had the same issue with Amber Purple, Blue Moon, etc. Colors never turned out how I wanted.

After the class I am able to get colors that I never got before. It really is about the oxygen. It can be done on concentrators but tanked, of course, makes it easier. After working with Brent I also upped my tanked pressure from 15psi to 25.
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Old 2012-11-08, 6:11am
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Brent is awesome. I miss having here in FL but I am glad he's found his niche!

You can say it until you turn blue in the face but people won't understand it until they see it... It's a wonderful realization though, isn't it? I figured out the trick on my home concentrator setup - Dial in the biggest "oxidizing" appearing flame I could. Then turn the propane down. In other words, work cooler and thus smaller. Of course nowadays I work on tanked so that's moot
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  #9  
Old 2012-11-08, 8:37am
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You have two colorants here: cobalt and silver.

The cobalt must be oxidized so it will not turn gray.

The silver needs to be not oxidized as much as heated in order to not turn tan on the surface. Silver is not nearly as responsive to flame atmosphere as to HEAT.

Getting the sheen is a matter of reducing and properly heating the glass so it stays like the rod is initially, then treating it to the proper amount of reduction. As you've found, though the metallic sheens can be fleeting.
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  #10  
Old 2012-11-21, 4:04pm
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Get it shiny and ENCASE!
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