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Boro Room -- For Boro-related tips, techniques, and questions.

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  #1  
Old 2012-12-13, 7:10pm
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Default Striking deeply encased ns double amber purple?

Hi guys! Hoping some of the knowledgable peeps here might be able to help me figure this out. I have been doing some implosion mibs with ns double amber purple and I'm just not getting the purples inside that I can pull on the surface. It always comes out kind of whitish with a barely there pinkish tint inside. Any tips on getting those vibrant colors double amber purple is known for when its deeply encased in clear? Thanks!!
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  #2  
Old 2012-12-27, 9:30am
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There is no real solution. You have to keep the double amber purple hot and clear the entire time. If it cools off too much, you get white/gray/tan. Once that happens there is no fixing it. It's hard to use inside a marble because there is no way to keep the center of the marble that hot.
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  #3  
Old 2012-12-27, 10:55am
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It's only going to strike if it's not reduced, or already reduco-struck to hazed. It's difficult with the highly saturated colors like DAP. I suggest using something less so, like Double Passion or Loki's Lipstick.
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  #4  
Old 2012-12-27, 11:30am
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Solara also works well for me in situations like this. You have to work it to get it past orange, but when it does get there, it gets some nice pinks and purples
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  #5  
Old 2012-12-28, 7:43pm
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Cool, thanks guys! I've never use solara. Got some Loki though. Love Loki!
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  #6  
Old 2012-12-29, 6:39am
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When I make jelly fish, I use DAP for the bell, when I make the bell I make sure that the DAP goes clear and to burn off the haze. I let it cool until it just starts to self strike then I encase in clear. The act of encasing in clear will cause the DAP to finish striking. This is not technically a deep encasement so YMMV.
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  #7  
Old 2012-12-29, 3:31pm
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Thanks dragon! I think it could still apply. I just need to keep the haze off of it while I implode I think... Work it ragin hot and kiln strike.
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  #8  
Old 2012-12-31, 5:36am
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You could also try encasing your AP and DAP and pulling into stringer. I'd do a tubing encasement to avoid the hazing.
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  #9  
Old 2012-12-31, 9:28am
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Good idea! I've never done a tube encasement. How is that done?
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  #10  
Old 2012-12-31, 12:24pm
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You seal off the end of a piece of boro tubing, that is just a little bigger than the rod you are going to encase. Cut off a piece of the color you want to encase and drop it down the tube. Heat from the bottom, so you don't trap any air, and work your way up to the top. Punty on to the bottom and pull into the size stringer you want.
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  #11  
Old 2013-01-03, 5:20pm
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Oh cool, gonna have to try that!
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  #12  
Old 2013-01-04, 7:34am
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Even if you burn the haze off, encased DAP can still haze up if you overwork it. The key, surprisingly, seems to be keeping it hot enough, as noted above.
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  #13  
Old 2013-01-04, 8:03am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragonharper View Post
You seal off the end of a piece of boro tubing, that is just a little bigger than the rod you are going to encase.
I do this a little differently - YMMV, this is just how I do it:

I don't seal the end of the tube, I leave both ends open and insert the rod into the tubing, leaving some sticking out. I seal the tubing to the rod at that end and work down the tube... with convenient handles on either side to hold, making it easy to pull down once I have sealed everything together. I usually just do a few inches of rod at a time, which this method suits very well I think.



Mad photoshop skillz right?
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  #14  
Old 2013-01-04, 6:22pm
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Brilliant!!!
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  #15  
Old 2013-01-04, 9:38pm
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Thanks bunyip! I had Pictured that being how it was done in my head before I asked.
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