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Boro Room -- For Boro-related tips, techniques, and questions.

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  #1  
Old 2011-12-30, 1:16pm
Signguy Signguy is offline
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Default Suggested tubing sizes?

I'm starting to play with boro as well as soft glass and have been using regular clear rod and color rod for awhile now.

I'm interested in also trying out some tubing so I was thinking of ordering an assortment to have in the studio and doing some experimenting.

Any suggestions regarding the best sizes to keep around?

Also, anyone know of books, videos or tuts related specifically to working with tubing?

Thanks,

Erik
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  #2  
Old 2011-12-30, 1:32pm
Flame Ryder Flame Ryder is offline
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12.7 and 9.5 for blow tubes, some 24-26mm for small ornaments etc and something bigger, say 59mm for goblets.

Mike...
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  #3  
Old 2011-12-30, 4:50pm
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indyglassman indyglassman is offline
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What do you plan on making with the tubing?

I use 25x4 and 25x3 to make implosions, wigwags, etc for marbles and pendants. 12mm for blow tubes and other various uses. If you want to do Goblets, you'll need to go quite a bit larger - I bought some 38mm to play with but haven't used it yet.

As for DVD's - I purchased two that use tubing:

Flameworked Goblets:E. Goldschmidt
Chaos Fume Opal Pendant by Hagstrom
Also Ron Baerer has a goblet DVD but I don't own that one.
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  #4  
Old 2011-12-31, 12:16pm
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I don't know how much rod you already have, but mountain glass art sales a nice starter kit with a assortment of rods and tubing here. I would think the middle size would be good for starting

http://www.mountainglass.com/Product...-STARTER-KITS/
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  #5  
Old 2012-01-02, 10:36am
Signguy Signguy is offline
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Thanks!

It looks like for what i want to do id mostly be wanting 12mm for blow tubes, and 25mm for marbles to start.

But, One more question: how about wall thickness?

Is there a "typical" thickness you want to use for marbles, blow tubes, etc? I notice that different people seem to have different preferences and that there are a lot of choices...
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  #6  
Old 2012-01-02, 11:44am
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queenofswords queenofswords is offline
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As a beginner to blowing you will want to start with heavy wall for your implosions. Makes sure you flash it through the flame to warm it up though or it may shatter. I use the 12 ml for more than just blow tubes. they make an excellent shell pendant or umbrella pendant, anything you want just a small sculptural element for. There are many good tuts on here to help you out. I think trying goblets right off is very brave of you. Good luck.
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  #7  
Old 2012-01-02, 5:11pm
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Yes, there are lots of choices - Simax comes in just about ever millimeter from 3 to 100, with each of those in various wall thicknesses.

The differences for simple blowing are

- how well the tube fits in your hand and how easily it can be rotated
- whether your torch can heat a given size efficiently. For instance, 75 mm is easily workable with a Mirage or CC, but probably not a Barracuda.
- how easy it is to work with - generally, heavy wall is simpler and more forgiving
- the most basic variable is how much glass is in a given length

Quote:
Originally Posted by Signguy
Is there a "typical" thickness you want to use for marbles, blow tubes, etc?
Flame Ryder answered about the blowtubes a bit earlier. Most people use 9.5 or 12.7, which are old metric sizes (3/8 and 1/2 inch). Of course 10 and 12 mm work well too. You basically match the blow tube size to the piece's weight and delicacy - if it's a big honker one might use 16 mm as a blow tube, for a tiny bead, maybe 7 mm. Everything in between, 9.5 or 12 works great.

As for what one might typically use for 'marbles' it depends on which technique you are using. The suggestions given here earlier are right on, again - for many people, 25.4 heavy (or extra heavy - you can choose 3.2 or 4 mm wall) is the basic tube for everything. It's good for tube implosions. I'd also suggest something like 28 mm medium wall to try something a bit more thin. You might try 31.7 heavy, too if you'd like to step up the size... or 19/22 if you're seeking something more dainty.
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  #8  
Old 2012-01-02, 6:59pm
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Thanks for all the help!

I'm off to order....
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  #9  
Old 2012-01-10, 10:40pm
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kokeshikitten kokeshikitten is offline
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This is a really helpful thread...does anyone have any suggestions for tube sizes for corked stash jars?
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  #10  
Old 2012-01-11, 7:36am
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How much stuff do you want to cram into the stash jar? Will you be using your finger or a pair of tweezers to get the stuff out of the stash jar? Or are you thinking of a stash jar that is 'just for looks' and not to be used? And, is the cork just an itty-bitty thing or a 1" cork? Finally, do you want a heavy duty, thick walled jar or a dainty thin walled jar? If you wear the jar around your neck on a long chain, and sit at a table, might the jar swing into the table with a hard bang?
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  #11  
Old 2012-01-11, 8:32am
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Fingers. To be used, about 1 inch cork, possibly larger, pretty thick walled and heavy duty. Not to be worn around the neck.
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  #12  
Old 2012-01-11, 9:09am
LarryC LarryC is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kokeshikitten View Post
Fingers. To be used, about 1 inch cork, possibly larger, pretty thick walled and heavy duty. Not to be worn around the neck.
Just a suggestion. Draw what you want to make to scale and measure the important dimensions.
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  #13  
Old 2012-01-12, 9:16am
Flame Ryder Flame Ryder is offline
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Larry has agreat suggestion.

I find that a drawing and a "color chart" ( a list of colors) really helps to formm the vessel as well as make sure oyu have a good color plan and all of the colors/rods/stringers/tools available before oyu start.

Mike...
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  #14  
Old 2012-01-12, 10:00am
LarryC LarryC is offline
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Drawing is very important to my larger work in the hotshop. I find it is the best way to learn to develop a plan.
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  #15  
Old 2012-01-12, 10:28am
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Thanks, will keep it in mind.
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