Boro clear and scratches

e. mort · #1 2006-11-19, 8:52pm

I have purchased boro clear from two different sources and the rods usually end up having some scratches that require me to "peel" sections of the rod. Is this because I don't buy it by the case, and it gets scratched when they pull it out of the case? Or is that just the way Simax clear is? I have heard that Schott Duran is pretty much scratch free, but I won't be able to afford that stuff until I am famous. (That's my positive thinking there, ok?

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ShepherdCreations · #2 2006-11-19, 10:36pm

Though I haven't tried Simax rod yet, I do have scratched up rods that I bought by the bundle, and my rods that I bought by the care are in MUCH better condition scratch-wise. How do you "peel" sections of rod?

e. mort · #3 2006-11-20, 7:06am

Thanks for the info.

Regarding "peeling" the rods. That is just a term that Loren Stump uses to describe using a glancing flame to heat up just the surface of the rod so you can peel off (or scrape) off a strip of scratched or bubbly glass.

IF-Designs · #4 2006-11-20, 7:24am

I dont use simax very often because I find it to be too scummy and bubby for my prefferences...I find that Kimble is much better usually although I havnt used Schott Duran before but would like to if its ultra crisp and clear .... If you have Kimble available it might be one to try for you.

Cosmo · #5 2006-11-20, 7:37am

I use Simax pretty much exclusively. Yes, there are scratches. Yes, there are less if you buy a full case. However, the scratches don't hurt the finished piece. Just make sure you clean the of any dust. Dust can get stuck in the scratches and cause bubbling, but if it's clean the scratches just melt smooth.

meister1981 · #6 2006-11-20, 7:47am

I might be ignorant but I still don't understand fully how scratches can come and play with the finished product if you bring the glass to the point of fusion. A scratch isn't more then a small hole or just a little material missing? When you melt it in then in molten state it should just melt smooth together unless you have dirt or air trapped right? The other thing i've noticed is that when you get rods of lets say soft glass that has been cut with an saw, the sawed end won't melt in and leaves you with a frosty speck. Can anyone explain what is happening there cause I'm guessing it would be the same with boro?

HannahRachel · #7 2006-11-20, 7:59am

Eric, buy a case...

I've had very few issues with Simax getting scratched at the factory. I've burned through over 100 cases of simax. Occasionally, there's a case with issues, but only one or two out of 100. It's likely they are sliding the rods out wrong to send you singles.

This is Brent (Mr. Smiley) by the way...

e. mort · #8 2006-11-20, 8:00am

When I was in Loren Stumps class he showed us an example of this using a very clean rod that was scratched. He peeled a section and made something and didn't peel the section and made something. You could really tell the difference. However, in the pieces where I peel the rod it is usually because I am using it to lens a vortex marble. The magnifying effect of the marble is much better when I peel. I am cleaning my rods thoroughly with windex and soft cotton baby diapers before heating.

Eric

Cosmo · #9 2006-11-20, 8:10am

Well, not to question Loren, but I've never had a problem using a scratched rod so long as it was clean before I used it.

IF-Designs · #10 2006-11-20, 8:31am

I think it might be the consistancy of the simax that doesnt help the scrtching situation when I used it I found it to melt and work a lil softer than the other clears I prefer. Sometimes if you dont work out those scratches jjust right you may not see them until its too late and that piece is just capoot from t hat inclusion.
I personally also dont like the clarity of Simax either or the actual tint of the clear I also find my color varies with it I prefer the color variances I get with other clears than with the Simax....It also may be why Loren chooses different clears as well. and I notice I will get more checking with simax than with other clears I have used. Which pretty much are Kimble and I think ive used actual or maybe have had my hand on duran once or twice but not positive its not something I can get regularly...but its just something to think about it you start to notice more problems when working with the simax clear. Not that you wont have them with other clears Ive just noticed they were lessened if not non existant...in most pieces I worked....

Cosmo · #11 2006-11-20, 8:42am

I personally prefer the "color" of Simax to the Kimble. Simax has a blue-green tint, whereas Kimble has a yellow tint. For large pieces that are all clear, Kimble may be better, but I never make anything like that. For me, when using a color behind it, I think Simax works better.

The only time I use Kimble is when fuming. I think the color develops better in Kimble than in Simax.

e. mort · #12 2006-11-20, 10:52am

Lots of good info everyone! Thanks much. I will try a softer flame on the scratches and see if that makes a difference as well. (Maybe I am heating them too quickly.)

Chad, since Loren works and teaches exclusively in softglass, maybe this is another good example of how the two glass types work differently. I need to get myself a good boro class one of these days so I can quit re-inventing the wheel.

Also, I have been told I can be a bit anal retentive at times.

Regardless, I plan to order a bunch more clear after the holiday shows are over and I think I will buy by the case this time........that is if I make enough money from the holiday shows. Wish me luck!

Cosmo · #13 2006-11-20, 10:54am

If you do, give me a call or e-mail. I'll make you a good deal on a case...

Emily · #14 2006-11-20, 11:15am

Quote:

Originally Posted by meister1981

it should just melt smooth together unless you have dirt or air trapped right?

That's exactly the problem. Scratches trap dirt, which turns into scum. It's definitely an issue for soft glass -- can't speak for boro.

If you're peeling rods, what you want to do is heat a spot, grab a bit of the hot glass with tweezers or pliers, then lay a strip of heat down the rod and use the bit of glass in your pliers to peel off the topmost layer of the heated glass. Use the glass to peel the glass, not the tweezers/pliers. It's a huge PITA, but for soft glass it makes a big difference.